Are they aux contacts on the heater relay?

 

Or a door switch?

 

You bet. Back on the oven pdf........what are the contacts that are controlling the fan on that drawing?

That was based off a single breaker type toggle to turn on and off everything...which is what Auber told me I needed.

I'm starting to wonder if someone needed some extra party money this month and saw me coming a mile away. LOL

If I'm going with the switches- which I prefer, I don't need the seperate LEDs, and I'm guessing the wiring will be different correct?



I do not have a heater relay. Do you need a picture of the contactor?

 

Need oven manufacturers wiring diagram. Must have. What controlling the oven now?

 

Or a door switch?

Need oven manufacturers wiring diagram. Must have. What controlling the oven now?

Nothing. Everything is ripped out.

The element and fan are the only two things that will be wired up.

The control box will mount to the side of the cabinet, and the wiring to the element and fan will be in conduit from control panel into metal box that houses fan and element.

Heres another DIY oven. Exactly what I'm trying to do.

https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1205467

 

Ok...is there an interior light? Is there a door switch? Lights for indicators?

Can I assume that the fan needs to run continuous? Or does it need to go off when door opens?

Any other matters....what about alarms....and I would assume power on reset....for when power goes out.

 

Ok...is there an interior light? Is there a door switch? Lights for indicators?

Can I assume that the fan needs to run continuous? Or does it need to go off when door opens?

Any other matters....what about alarms....and I would assume power on reset....for when power goes out.

Nothing. No door switches or alarms. No interior lights. The switches have LED indicators in them, and are latching. I want to control the fan independently with a SECOND switch.

1 switch for the heater, 1 switch for the fan.

 

Ok....we will start with 120 power receptacle......needs 20 amp breaker. The cord that feeds the oven should be larger than normal 120v cords. 2000 watts continuous is high for 120.

Ground of course to metal frame. Neutral to relay input contact and line or hot to the other relay input contact. I need a link to the contactor.....need data sheet. I need to clearly see those terminals.

 

Ok....we will start with 120 power receptacle......needs 20 amp breaker. The cord that feeds the oven should be larger than normal 120v cords. 2000 watts continuous is high for 120.

Ground of course to metal frame. Neutral to relay input contact and line or hot to the other relay input contact. I need a link to the contactor.....need data sheet. I need to clearly see those terminals.

I have a 20 Amp breaker, and I'm using 12 gauge cord.

The contactor is a Packard C230B

http://packardonline.com/Shop/Product/2508

Also keep in mind its doubtful the oven will run at 2000 watts continuous...the cabinet is insulated and we are olny going to be at 300 degrees max.

 

Do both sides have multiple lugs like that......that's great. Just what we need.

 

Do both sides have multiple lugs like that......that's great. Just what we need.

Yes multiple lugs on the ends and 2 lugs on each side.

 

We will connect an aux neutral and hot at the relay input.......out to the control panel. The neutral will go straight to the PID. The hot will go to a single pole on/off switch...from there to power the PID.

Twist and armor these power leads.

Will there ever be a time when you will need fan on......without heat? If so.....connect two more aux leads to relay input.

Are we ok so far?

 

We will connect an aux neutral and hot at the relay input.......out to the control panel. The neutral will go straight to the PID. The hot will go to a single pole on/off switch...from there to power the PID.

Twist and armor these power leads.

Will there ever be a time when you will need fan on......without heat? If so.....connect two more aux leads to relay input.

Are we ok so far?

 

Shouldnt need the fan without heat.

I'm following, I'm ok.

 

How about when you open the door? Or is the manual fan switch enough?

 

How about when you open the door? Or is the manual fan switch enough?

Manual switch will be fine.

 

Wait just a second. When the oven is on and in use......you want the fan on continuously right?

You don't want the fan to cycle with the element. So we will power fan from the relay input too.....neutral straight to fan and hot thru switch and then to fan.

Connect relay output to heating element. Hot and neutral.

Make and connect short jumper from hot relay input to relay coil terminal. Then from the other coil terminal to the PID relay output terminal. The other PID relay contact is connected to neutral. This allows the PID to turn on the heater contactor.

Whats left.....thermocouple.

Programming.

What did I forget?

 

Wait just a second. When the oven is on and in use......you want the fan on continuously right?

You don't want the fan to cycle with the element. So we will power fan from the relay input too.....neutral straight to fan and hot thru switch and then to fan.

Connect relay output to heating element. Hot and neutral.

Make and connect short jumper from hot relay input to relay coil terminal. Then from the other coil terminal to the PID relay output terminal. The other PID relay contact is connected to neutral. This allows the PID to turn on the heater contactor.

Whats left.....thermocouple.

Programming.

What did I forget?

I’m sorry. Last night I kept getting a “you’ve exceeded your limit of 5 posts per hour” message. I will not complain about the forum because of your excellent help but that’s strange.
Any ways....I’m using a K type TC and thankfully I actually know where that goes. Lol.

If the switch is on to the fan, yes I want it on continuously.

Also, I do not see any + or - markings on the Contactor.

 

A relay is a switch. This relay has two poles. In AC, there is not a positive and negative.

We will call one pole neutral and the other pole hot or line. This is American terminology with line voltage.

This relay has two inputs.....and two outputs. One relay switch contact(pole) will connect neutral input to neutral output. The other relay switch contact(pole) will connect the hot input to the hot output.

In order for this to happen......we need to put 120V across the relay COIL.

Do you understand what is happening here? When the PID calls for heat......the output relay in the PID closes. This closure completes a circuit that supplies 120V to the heater contactor relay coil. This coil closes the contactor.....supplying 120V to heater.

Do you understand how to connect this project up? Do you understand the terminals on the PID?

If my instructions were not clear....or confusing......let me know. We can go again thru each connection.

 

A relay is a switch. This relay has two poles. In AC, there is not a positive and negative.

We will call one pole neutral and the other pole hot or line. This is American terminology with line voltage.

This relay has two inputs.....and two outputs. One relay switch contact(pole) will connect neutral input to neutral output. The other relay switch contact(pole) will connect the hot input to the hot output.

In order for this to happen......we need to put 120V across the relay COIL.

Do you understand what is happening here? When the PID calls for heat......the output relay in the PID closes. This closure completes a circuit that supplies 120V to the heater contactor relay coil. This coil closes the contactor.....supplying 120V to heater.

Do you understand how to connect this project up? Do you understand the terminals on the PID?

If my instructions were not clear....or confusing......let me know. We can go again thru each connection.

Yes believe it or not I have been doing a ton of reading and looking at different diagrams today. I have a much better understanding of the terminology now. An actual diagram would help but I do think I follow the steps you are explaining. And I very much appreciate your time in directing me.