Hi All,
I need some help with identifying a capacitor.
I'm trying to fix a potable heater that has this start (or run) capacitor:
CBB61 - 3uf +/-5% @ 250V, 50/60Hz, 85 deg F
I found a matching one that's a C61 but not sure what the difference is between the two.
Any help is appreciated...

 

Manufacturer? That's the only way to know what their naming code means. If the specs are the same I wouldn't worry about it too much but it's always good to find as much detail as you can.

 

Here's a pic of it:

 

Take a look here:
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/manufacturer-logos-for-part-identification.123019/

Unfortunately I don't see the logo there.

Maybe this will help:
https://www.amazon.com/Wadoy-CBB61-Ceiling-Capacitor-250VAC/dp/B074W6HJBZ/ref=asc_df_B074W6HJBZ

 

Nice graphic, thanx!
Thanx for the Amazon link too.
I've been hunting around for an equivalent for 2 days now and think I found some.
But I want to be sure I'm not getting a start only or run only capacitor.
I want to be sure to match the 3uf @ =/-5%, a higher voltage rating and at least 85 deg C temp rating.
But first I need to figure out what kind of cap this is and what I can sub for it.

 

FWIW, I don't think there's any difference between a start or run capacitor as long as the specs are right. A capacitor is a capacitor regardless of its function. I could be way off and @MaxHeadRoom can correct me in that case.

 

OK, thanks.
Let's see what @MaxHeadRoom says...

 

FWIW, I don't think there's any difference between a start or run capacitor as long as the specs are right. A capacitor is a capacitor regardless of its function. I could be way off and @MaxHeadRoom can correct me in that case.

There is often a lot of difference,
A motor run cap is intended to be in circuit the whole time and is, or should be motor run rated, regardless of make, the start cap on the other hand is often dry electrolytic AC rated and is intended to be in circuit for a very brief time.
Bi-polar Dry electrolytic, because it is generally a lot larger μf rated.

 

@MaxHeadRoom, thanks for that info.
Can you tell me how I can distinguish between a start and run capacitor?
I posted a pic above of the one I'm trying to replace.

 

There is often a lot of difference,

I had a hunch I was missing something. Learn something everyday.

 

@MaxHeadRoom, thanks for that info.
Can you tell me how I can distinguish between a start and run capacitor?
I posted a pic above of the one I'm trying to replace.

In your case, if only one cap is fitted and the motor is <~1/2 hp, then the chances are you only have one (start+run) capacitor, IOW it does both jobs and is in circuit the whole time, you either need to obtain a motor start/run rated cap or use a very high quality, non-electrolytic, of the same value .

 

Thanks for that expert info.

I'm in the process of trying to find an equivalent capacitor, but I don't know how to determine if the one I'm looking at online is the kind you say I need. Do you have any links that I can read to learn how to do that?

 

There is often a lot of difference,
A motor run cap is intended to be in circuit the whole time and is, or should be motor run rated, regardless of make, the start cap on the other hand is often dry electrolytic AC rated and is intended to be in circuit for a very brief time.
Bi-polar Dry electrolytic, because it is generally a lot larger μf rated.

Is there a specification that would allow you to distinguish them?

 

Check out the pic in post #3 above...

 

See Digikey
Part No. WIMA MKP4 series

1928-1568-ND

correction.

 

Thanks.
But the original cap is 3uf and +/-5%, and the AC voltage is 250, so this part is out of spec according to your previous comment.
I had already gone to DigiKey and they didn't have anything except a can shaped cap that I'd have to adapt outside the enclosure.

 

Where are you operating this ?
N.A. ? UK?

 

NA

 

If you don't want to use the one in post #16, I think the one I showed is superior to the original fitted and with the winding volt drop you should not have a problem.
The 0.3 uf difference will be inconsequential.

 

There is versions of the WIMA out there that cover 250vac and 600vdc.
Is the unit actually running on 240v? or 120v?