You can clearly see; "4W" stamped on the bulbs shown in the OP.Doubt there's anything wrong with the PCB here and it just looks like a half wave rectifier like you said and a LDR/BJT switch, so it should work like..
Vmax = 120Vrms*1.414 = 169.68V
169.68/Pi = 54.01VDC equivalent
Just make sure that bulb is the right wattageThink it is 2.4W though, that's what my money's on
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You can clearly see; "4W" stamped on the bulbs shown in the OP.
There's no blemish obscuring the top of a "2" if it were there.Just a FYI there is usually no space between the voltage and the wattage markings on bulbs. e.g. "60V4W" or "60V2.4W" etc
I'm wondering if they've used half wave rectification to halve the power in a bulb running on double the voltage! It makes for short bulb life, but some manufacturers have been known to do it!
The TS has stated that the unit runs from 120V and the general consensus seems to be that its a 60V bulb.It's not twice the voltage though
It's a half wave recitifier. I supplied the maths earlier. please don't lead the OP down the wrong street with misinformation.The TS has stated that the unit runs from 120V and the general consensus seems to be that its a 60V bulb.
Just to be absolutely sure (even my mental arithmetic isn't that bad) I grabbed a calculator and divided 120 by 2, surprise surprise - the answer was 60.
The 60V filament still gets 1.414x120V - it just only get alternate half-cycles of 1.414x120V.It's a half wave recitifier. I supplied the maths earlier. please don't lead the OP down the wrong street with misinformation.
"The current on the DC side of the circuit flows in one direction only making the circuit Unidirectional. As the load resistor receives from the diode a positive half of the waveform, zero volts, a positive half of the waveform, zero volts, etc, the value of this irregular voltage would be equal in value to an equivalent DC voltage of 0.318 x Vmax of the input sinusoidal waveform or 0.45 x Vrms of the input sinusoidal waveform."
No one said peak voltage was reduced? Did they? No? Didn't think so lol. You seem to think p-p and rms are the same thing you are referring to both as your point.The 60V filament still gets 1.414x120V - it just only get alternate half-cycles of 1.414x120V.
The bulb gets half the power - but the applied peak voltage isn't reduced.
The TS has stated its 60V and the picture shows no sign of the top of a 2 above the blemish, so its very likely 4W.No one said peak voltage was reduced? Did they? No? Didn't think so lol. You seem to think p-p and rms are the same thing you are referring to both as your point.
Anyway whatever lets just see what the bulb rating is.
Yes ok sir, whatever you say, it's not like you just reworded what I said or anything but nice try.You should be advised that it is the difference between PP and RMS.
Especially since you were on about PP voltage in a half-wave rectified circuit where only alternate peaks exist..........................Yes ok sir, whatever you say, it's not like you just reworded what I said or anything but nice try.
Please stop trying to antagonise me and troll this thread, Your initial sarcasm was unwarranted and just not necessary. No one has mentioned P-P except you with the exception of me mentioning it in the mathematics I used. The OP has asked about the bulb and you are dragging this thread off topic with your trolling. Like I have already said lets just wait until the OP responds after he has removed the solder from the bulb. Until then I suggest you re-evaluate your behaviour and refrain from making insulting and unprovoked sarcastic remarks.Especially since you were on about PP voltage in a half-wave rectified circuit where only alternate peaks exist..........................
When someone is as confused as you seem to be - its best to concentrate on correcting one error at a time.
You first mentioned PP when accusing me of not knowing it from RMS.Please stop trying to antagonise me and troll this thread, Your initial sarcasm was unwarranted and just not necessary. No one has mentioned P-P except you with the exception of me mentioning it in the mathematics I used. The OP has asked about the bulb and you are dragging this thread off topic with your trolling. Like I have already said lets just wait until the OP responds after he has removed the solder from the bulb. Until then I suggest you re-evaluate your behaviour and refrain from making insulting and unprovoked sarcastic remarks.
The TS has stated that the unit runs from 120V and the general consensus seems to be that its a 60V bulb.
Just to be absolutely sure (even my mental arithmetic isn't that bad) I grabbed a calculator and divided 120 by 2, surprise surprise - the answer was 60.
Telling anyone to stop pointing out how clueless you are, is invariably futile.^^^
Of Course I am lol. It was at this point it became clear you were not clued into my point. Why you keep replying when I have asked you to stop I do not know. I assume it is your ego.
What are you even looking up that you can't find it ??? The whole thread has answered almost every possible out come and has already answered the type and now you have the ratings . So please use the information giving instead of ignoring it and still asking for help..Well, desoldering ribbon/braid came in the mail today. For all those curious.... the verdict's in:
60V 2.4W --
Good call Marcus2012
Now if someone could point me to a source... that would be grand. I've scoured the web and clearly life as a professional parts buyer just isn't in the cards for me.
I looked up "60V 2.4W bayonet bulb". I quickly scanned the thread once more. If you could point out the information in the thread that points to where I could source (or search for) this specific bulb I would be most obliged.What are you even looking up that you can't find it ???