Yes, my theory being less heat will be generated dropping from 12V then to 3V vs. 18V to 3V. Grant it, the RC board shouldn't take much current once removed from the motors, but never hurts to be on the safe side..... so are you regulating down to 12vdc for the working voltage and that down to 3vdc for the RC receiver?
Not sure if you saw it on the drawing, but I did include a small gray bar on U1 and U2 denoting orientation. Both should have the backs oriented toward the middle.Had a bit of a puzzle on mounting U2...
Don't know if it will be any cheaper, but you could also go to glass store or maybe a craft store and get a dark green tinted piece of stained glass instead. I'd still suggest keeping it ~1/8" thick, but thinner would work too as long as it wasn't too lightly tinted.have to deal with the "plastic" locating/buying
This would work nicely to mount the resistors to if you don't want to wire them in line. You can also tie the 18V to one of the bus bars and wire both the anode and cathodes back to this board if you'd like.and the resistor placement that tie to the LEDs
That is perfect. Perhaps you can find a scrap piece of acrylic or glass from something else as well? I can cut off some of the green cellophane, roll it up and mail it to you if you'd like. If interested, just PM me your mailing address.....it is ABS type and salvage from a large flat screen TV cabinet back cover. It is 1/8" thick and rigid so seems just right and FREE !