I am going to hazard a guess that it is a 100μH power line choke.
Hence the broken top will make little difference.

 

Now that we know exactly (or close) to what the part is and what the application is, we can also know that the exact inductance is not so critical Probably a few drops of glue or epoxy to prevent vibration will be a good idea.
Advice without understanding the application may not be helpful at all, which is why we ask questions.

 

Now that we know exactly (or close) to what the part is and what the application is, we can also know that the exact inductance is not so critical Probably a few drops of glue or epoxy to prevent vibration will be a good idea.
Advice without understanding the application may not be helpful at all, which is why we ask questions.

Ok thank you so much , sorry my bad had to mention the purpose of this circuit and where does it work
The new one I posted earlier found it in online store after you told me what this component is and its value , 10 paces are less than 1$ , if this one is exactly the same type I go buy it better
But I'm not sure what is "SMD" is and "CD43" written besides its name
Kindly please confirm for me its the same component and I will go for it , here is the link and the pic of it, thank you ...
https://www.amazon.eg/-/en/Power-Inductor-100uH-5x4x3mm-10pcs/dp/B09HCQ9PQ9

 

Ok thank you so much , sorry my bad had to mention the purpose of this circuit and where does it work
The new one I posted earlier found it in online store after you told me what this component is and its value , 10 paces are less than 1$ , if this one is exactly the same type I go buy it better
But I'm not sure what is "SMD" is and "CD43" written besides its name
Kindly please confirm for me its the same component and I will go for it , here is the link and the pic of it, thank you ...
https://www.amazon.eg/-/en/Power-Inductor-100uH-5x4x3mm-10pcs/dp/B09HCQ9PQ9

OK, "SMD" means Surface Mount DEvice, which is the alternative to THD "Thru Hole Device", which has some sort of leads that go thru the PCB.
I am guessing that CD43 is a package style, which I am not able to provide more details. But since some dimensions are given then you can compare with the one on your board assembly.

 

One has pins and the SMD does not have pins for mounting so if yours has pins through the board you want the other one not the SMD version.

Ron

 

@Hatem-Eg just put it on the car and report. if its not working remove the same components from a scraped car. if you have problem with steering angle sensor check 4 optocouple on the right.

 

OK, "SMD" means Surface Mount DEvice, which is the alternative to THD "Thru Hole Device", which has some sort of leads that go thru the PCB.
I am guessing that CD43 is a package style, which I am not able to provide more details. But since some dimensions are given then you can compare with the one on your board assembly.

The one on store is almost the half size of the broken one , does it matter ?
Still option B on the table ( glue ir epoxy )
if there is will be defrences in power or somthing else.

One has pins and the SMD does not have pins for mounting so if yours has pins through the board you want the other one not the SMD version.

Ron

No there is no Hole on the board since its double face circuit board , then I guess it's SMD type .

 

@Hatem-Eg just put it on the car and report. if its not working remove the same components from a scraped car. if you have problem with steering angle sensor check 4 optocouple on the right.

Will try the epoxy to fill the missed part if the new one I posted from the store doesn't match on its value due to the size is not the same

It's a module inside the gear shifter

 

No there is no Hole on the board since its double face circuit board , then I guess it's SMD type .

No holes and no pins then yes, it's SMD.

Ron

 

@Hatem-Eg .

if you have problem with steering angle sensor check 4 optocouple on the right.

Yes I have a problem with my angle sensor, but if I couldn't fix it will post in a new topic
Thanks for your reply

 

No holes and no pins then yes, it's SMD.

Ron

Only 2 terminals soldering to the board and opposite side some other components

 

While I don't see the SMD pads like the pads of some surrounding components I don't see through board holes either. If you remove the old it has pins or it doesn't. Best guess on my part. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

Ron

 

I think this board is multi layer. Pay attention when you remove the old part.

 

I think this board is multi layer. Pay attention when you remove the old part.

Yes I think so.
Removing the old one can be done by soldring gun ? Or have to use hot air ?

 

Hot air preferred but a decent soldering pencil should work.

Ron

 

In order to remove SMD components you have to melt all solder joints at the same time.
If there are only two solder pads, then you need two soldering irons to melt both pads at the same time.

 

In order to remove SMD components you have to melt all solder joints at the same time.
If there are only two solder pads, then you need two soldering irons to melt both pads at the same time.

I should correct what I posted. Removing I have used a single soldering pencil. One hand apply heat, other hand pry one side of component up gently. Then move to other side and remove I am not concerned with a damaged component. Now, replacing is another story and where I use hot air. While removal is a pain with a pencil I have done it.

Ron

 

No it has no effect on fit or function. If you are worried about it wrap some tape around making a form and pour some epoxy resin in to fill the form. When the resin sets up remove the tape. Unless the coil is damaged no, the broken plastic changes nothing.

Ron

That is not plastic - it's ferrite material and forms part of the magnetic circuit. Yes it will have a detrimental effect, but I don't believe it has much as some might believe. Most of the inductance will be in the core, which is still intact. Probably the "flanges" are there to hold the wires more than form part of the magnetic flux circuit.

I would say if the board is still working, leave it alone...

 

That is not plastic - it's ferrite material and forms part of the magnetic circuit. Yes it will have a detrimental effect, but I don't believe it has much as some might believe. Most of the inductance will be in the core, which is still intact. Probably the "flanges" are there to hold the wires more than form part of the magnetic flux circuit.

I would say if the board is still working, leave it alone...

I know the ferrite but wasn't it originally encapsulated in plastic? My bad on that note and the original image posted was not actually the thread starter's image but I guess an example. Yes, as to the ferrite I agree and my view was simple, does it work? Yes, then don't worry about it, No then remove and replace it.

Ron

 

Probably the problem is solved now. But from experience I always find the welds created. Probably because of the vibrations or the excursion ends. I was wondering how they make the pieces For aerospace? Increased vibration and temperature range.