This forum is full of tinkerers, surely some of you like to tinker with cars? My daughter and I are restoring a 1991 Chevy S10 pickup to be her first ride when she turns 16 in 2 months. I am creating this thread to show pictures of the process but also for others to share pictures of their own past/current automotive restoration projects.

My daughter has expressed desire for "a lifted truck" on many occasions. Each time I put on a big show of "you get what you get and you don't throw a fit" but she has not been giving me half the problems I gave my parents at her age so I'd like to make some attempt to reward her with what she wants. Problem is money. As you know it's 2022 and there's a used car shortage, so the $3,000 beater I would have bought her is now worth double its weight in lumber. Even worse if you're looking at trucks; doubly worse if you're looking for trucks in Texas.

When my dad learned I was looking for a truck he offered me this derelict S10 for $0. We were looking at newer vehicles than this, but the offer was very enticing, so we accepted. I figured since I didn't pay anything for it I can make some attempt be a "cool" dad and use the money I had set aside into making it a "lifted truck" for her. It's not 4wd and she won't be going off road, she just wants "the look" I guess. Well, here's how it looked last week when we brought it home, covered in fungus and decomposing forest:




Interior is in remarkably good shape for a 31 y/o Chevy truck. These plastic dashboards are typically in shambles, crumbling apart like dry cake.


(she's showing how "lifted" she'd like to have it):




and here's the finished look we are going for (replace blue with dark burgundy):



Back story on the truck:
My dad bought the truck from the estate of the original owner, an old man (deceased) who didn't drive it much. In 21 years he put 130k miles on it, parked it indoors, and maintained it well. My dad saw it, didn't need it, but couldn't pass it up at the price they were asking, so he brought it home, drove it for a couple of weeks, and then parked it under a tree. It sat there for 2 years before he decided to get back in it, drive it to town and get it inspected. He made it to town and got the inspection, but on 2 y/o gas it was bogging down real bad so he drove straight home and parked it back under the tree. That's where it sat for the next 8 years.

He hasn't touched it since, at first due to lack of time, then due to lack of health. He's gradually coming to terms with the fact he won't be doing all the things that he planned on doing in his "golden" years, which included turning this truck into a hotrod and finishing his '64.5 mustang project. So he gave this truck to me (for my daughter) and 2 days later he gave the mustang to my sister. I am saddened by my dad's reality but happy to share this bonding experience with my daughter. I am overwhelmed by the extent to which she seems to be enjoying this (so far). She is not a girly girl, but neither is she a tomboy. I didn't know how engaged she would be with this project, but what I am seeing from her is very encouraging. She mentioned maybe even considering this as a trade. I would be very proud if she did. I just want her to find a path in life and take it; have an interest and pursue it, no matter what it is (so long as it's productive), because until now I haven't seen any indication that she had any interest in anything at all, apart from being a teenage girl on her phone all the time. It is awesome to finally have a common interest and be able to bond over something we can do together as a team.

Here's the list of work that it needs or needed, in the originally planned chronological order:

• Remove camper
• Remove bed (to access fuel tank)
• Drain & remove fuel tank
• Rebuild TBI, maybe replace injectors
• Engine Oil & filter change
• Drain & replace ATF, replace filter & gasket (it looked ok, just topped it off, postpone the drain/flush)
• Drain & replace coolant (it looked ok, just topped it off, postpone the drain/flush)
• Rebuild brake calipers
• Replace:
  • serpentine belt
  • spark plugs & wires
  • air filter
  • battery
  • front brake pads
  • read brake shoes
  • rear wheel cylinders
  • fuel tank
  • fuel pump
  • fuel filter
  • fuel lines (rubber sections)
• bleed brakes
• Turn the engine over, see if she'll run (she runs!)
• Air up the tires, take off the jack stands and take it for a test drive.

If no issues (none so far!), get it titled, insured, and continue with:

• Pressure wash frame, spray with something to stop the rust
• put the bed back on
• Charge up A/C (if needed) (not needed)
• Replace headliner & wiper blades
• Inspect motor mounts and rubber suspension components, replace as necessary
• Detail the interior
• Remove tape deck & Install a CD player, and probably speakers
• Install 2" Suspension lift
• put 15" wheels on it with 235/75/15 (or larger) tires
• Remove all trim, sand, mask, prep, paint. (this one bullet represents as much time and money as the rest of the list combined)
• Put it all back together and call it a restored classic

Here are some photos of the above crossed-off steps:

(rebuilding TBI)

 

Pictures, continued:

(removing camper & bed)




(replacing spark plugs)


Her boyfriend showed up so I gave him a tiny wrench and sent him under the truck to bench press a full tank of ancient gas:


(brake job):





(test drive):


This truck has the 4.3L V6, which is uncommon. Most of them had a 2.8L I4. The 4.3L was common in the full-sized trucks and is a bit oversized for this small of a truck. It has more power than you transmit to the road, especially with the bed removed. It's the king of one-wheel-peel, and my daughter was a little disturbed at my behavior on the way back from the gas station, drifting and doing donuts. Just being an overall good example, ya know. But I think sometimes the kids need to see us be a kid again. I think that's healthy... yeah, that's why I did it.

 

Post #6 shows the 12 cyl. Jag XJS that had a under-the-hood fire.
Previously posted.
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/basic-color-codes-2.181679/#post-1664347
Also restored a couple of other burn outs,
Workshop manual is essential.

 

Her headband looks a lot like a pair of safety glasses.

 

Post #6 shows the 12 cyl. Jag XJS that had a under-the-hood fire.
Previously posted.
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/basic-color-codes-2.181679/#post-1664347
Also restored a couple of other burn outs,
Workshop manual is essential.

That amber blinker fluid looks a little too dark! Does that pass Canadian highway safety standards? I think the DOT would object. I would make sure to drink it and refill with a blonde.

 

Her headband looks a lot like a pair of safety glasses.

View attachment 261798

The safety glasses are to prevent brake cleaner overspray in the eyeballs: one of the most painful experiences that doesn't involve blood loss. Since no spraying in this case I let it slide.

 

I had the GMC version (Sonoma) of that unit at one time. Picked it up for $100, put some new brake lines to the rear, and ran the odometer up to 260,000 before parting it out. The rust was getting to be more than a cosmetic issue. It still ran and drove awesome, but the cab mounts were gone and there wasn't enough good metal left to fabricate up something safe enough. The inside of the cab looked as if I had started to build a roll cage and gave up part way through. A few people laughed, but as it always seems to work they were the ones stuck in the cold with something that wouldn't start while my old beater slowly cranked a couple revolutions and fired right up like it was just another day. Other than a set of tires and a fuel pump I really didn't do anything other than oil changes and brakes.

 

I had the GMC version (Sonoma) of that unit at one time. Picked it up for $100, put some new brake lines to the rear, and ran the odometer up to 260,000 before parting it out. The rust was getting to be more than a cosmetic issue. It still ran and drove awesome, but the cab mounts were gone and there wasn't enough good metal left to fabricate up something safe enough. The inside of the cab looked as if I had started to build a roll cage and gave up part way through. A few people laughed, but as it always seems to work they were the ones stuck in the cold with something that wouldn't start while my old beater slowly cranked a couple revolutions and fired right up like it was just another day. Other than a set of tires and a fuel pump I really didn't do anything other than oil changes and brakes.

What part of the country were you driving in that it rusted like that? This is a TX truck and I can't wrap my head around the rust on the frame. It's all surface rust, nothing bad at all, but it's the ENTIRE frame. Every square inch of it. It's like the frame is only a year old but never got painted. Or like every square inch of paint simultaneously fell off of it a year ago. How does that happen? Did they paint these things with water colors? The body is excellent, the only rust is on the top of the cab, very light. But the frame? I found 6" of painted section and when I touched it the paint fell off in a complete sheet.

 

@strantor I'm up in northwest Ohio. The frame and hangers off it were actually still in fair shape. A little bit of pitting, but nothing to be worried about for several years probably. Frame paint falls off everything sooner or later up here so it's not uncommon to see a bare frame.
The cab itself was another story. The floor was a patchwork of repairs to get it through another year, but it was getting to the point everything was rusted too thin to weld to anymore. It didn't take much to rip the cab off the frame.
When all was done I cut the frame and turned it into a trailer. A little too small for some things even with the long bed, but it does come in handy around the yard behind the tractor. I have noticed the bed itself is starting to rot out bad where it counts and will have to do something different with it eventually.

 

I think it's terrific this is a father daughter project. I have a brother-in-law who does restorations on late 60s and early 70s 70s Chevys. Your work is cut out for you. Even in Texas that nice little trucks undercarriage took a beating parked on grass under a tree. I have watched my brother-in-law go to town sandblasting. My wife has a sweet 90 Chevy Tahoe out of Arizona.

All well and fine for cars and trucks. The memory of you and your daughter doing this project will last her forever and that is more important than all else. The same holds true for you. I also think her boyfriend and my grandson have the same barber. Really glad I found this thread.

Ron

 

How are you going to lift this? A body lift or suspension lift? I'm not sure the front suspension on a 2WD can be lifted. They don't have torsion bars like the 4WD ones do.

 

How are you going to lift this? A body lift or suspension lift? I'm not sure the front suspension on a 2WD can be lifted. They don't have torsion bars like the 4WD ones do.

Just a little 2" suspension lift and replace the 205/75r14 wheels & tires (26x8x14) with 30x9.5x15. Should make it about 5" higher than it was when she indicated she wanted about 4" lift, considering the little tires were flat at the time.

 

I learned something from you. Didn't know they made a 2WD lift kit. I have used the 2" lowereing spindles but never tried to lift one, other than 4WD. I love the second generation S10s, and have owned around 6 of them, but the weather is hard on them around here, hard to find one that isn't a rust bucket.

 

I learned something from you. Didn't know they made a 2WD lift kit. I have used the 2" lowereing spindles but never tried to lift one, other than 4WD. I love the second generation S10s, and have owned around 6 of them, but the weather is hard on them around here, hard to find one that isn't a rust bucket.

They also make lift spindles for them. It probably won't stay lifted for long. I plan on getting her something newer/nicer for graduation if this truck is still in one piece, and then it will become my toy. Drop back down to factory height or lower, put in a LS engine with T56 6spd manual.

 

@strantor You showed a picture of taking the bed off, I think that's what you were doing. Do your self a favor if it's still off, change the fuel pump. Every one of the S10s I owned even the 1994 I bought new had to have the pump changed. And another hint is don't cheap out on the pump, the one that I changed out using a no name pump needed changing again shortly after. And I must be related to Murphy, the pumps always seed to go when the tank was near full and heavy. One even needed a new tank, leaves had accumulated on top of the rank and rusted it out.

 

@strantor You showed a picture of taking the bed off, I think that's what you were doing. Do your self a favor if it's still off, change the fuel pump. Every one of the S10s I owned even the 1994 I bought new had to have the pump changed. And another hint is don't cheap out on the pump, the one that I changed out using a no name pump needed changing again shortly after. And I must be related to Murphy, the pumps always seed to go when the tank was near full and heavy. One even needed a new tank, leaves had accumulated on top of the rank and rusted it out.

We already replaced the tank, pump, filter, and rubber sections of fuel line. It was one of the first things we did. Tank probably didn't need replacing but I assumed it would be rusty inside from ethanol fuel sitting in it for a decade and I didn't have time to mess with cleaning it out. I am trying to get it to the point of ready for paint prep before I go out of town for a month. She can do all the masking, sanding, maybe even spraying, while I'm gone.

 

Definitely without a doubt a Shortbus environment. I just had to get that in.

Ron

 

Looks like a fun project. I would strongly recommend replacing the coolant.
Coolant has corrosion inhibitors in it that are consumed over time. Once
the corrosion inhibitors are gone then the corrosion starts, radiators and
heater cores tend to fail next.
You can buy a paint called POR-15 that chemically attaches itself to rust, and
it is very durable. People who restore vehicles highly recommend it.

 

Looks like a fun project. I would strongly recommend replacing the coolant.
Coolant has corrosion inhibitors in it that are consumed over time. Once
the corrosion inhibitors are gone then the corrosion starts, radiators and
heater cores tend to fail next.
You can buy a paint called POR-15 that chemically attaches itself to rust, and
it is very durable. People who restore vehicles highly recommend it.

Just picked some up 2 days ago. I paid $130 for 2 quarts of POR15. Only in my 20s when I paid for liquor by the shot with a tip, did I ever pay so much for any kind of fluid per volume.

 

Just picked some up 2 days ago. I paid $130 for 2 quarts of POR15. Only in my 20s when I paid for liquor by the shot with a tip, did I ever pay so much for any kind of fluid per volume.

Just be aware that Por15 isn't UV resistant and needs a top coat. And if you think that is expensive wait until get into the body paint. The days of painting a vehicle for $100 in the back yard are over. If you use a catalized paint be sure to use the correct mask. I spent a week in the hospital after painting one of my old Harley's using the wrong mask, chemical pneumonia from the isocyanate, basically super glue that is the hardener. With that type of pneumonia you just have to wait out the lung interior surfaces to slough off and grow back, no fun.