The HS in attachment is fine. HS is threaded so drill another hole for a wood screw to attach HS to
wood strip.

Thanks Bernard and @djsfantasi. Heat sink ordered. Kitchen progress: Plastics all primed. All wood sanded, I will prime the wood when I can. Son is off kindergarten this week so unable to progress until then -although thinking to give the kid a day of TV meaning I could sand and stain the work top *thinks*. In the mean time I can take a picture of all the parts I have and possibly we could start to shape how it's all going to get put together. As always, I appreciate everyone's help.

 

@Bernard Can you cut the LED strips by the way? I think you said they can be cut.

 

Lili, look back @ post # 60. On white strip on one side there 2 white strips & between then is a mark every 25 mm where it can be cut. There are plug in adapters with end caps and leads . Also leads can be soldered on as I did.

 

Lili, look back @ post # 60. On white strip on one side there 2 white strips & between then is a mark every 25 mm where it can be cut. There are plug in adapters with a end cap and leads . Also leads can be soldered on as I did.

I will, thank you so much! Edit: Watched a video where they used heat shrink wrap to hold the ends on. Maybe that's the answer.

 

Some 2.5 -3 mm heat shrink would be handy to insulate connections.
I wonder if our resident chemist @jpanhalt might have a suggestion for a non conductive cement that will adhere to " Flexible Silicone Neon-Like LED Strip "?

 

Hi Bernard, my heat sink came so that's now in with the cooker stuff should start the build next week, should finish painting this week. One smallish thing: I have my Ledberg which I will use to power a couple of elements of the kitchen including two counter top lights, in order to stop these lights being on all the time I was thinking to add a switch to each of the arms (the other two arms power the microwave and the dishwasher so I need the switches so the lights can power independently of them). I have seen a couple of lamp switches (these), my Ledberg has writing on it that says 300V but the switches are 250V, will that be a problem? Also how can I work out which of my wires is negative and which is positive? I have a multimeter if that helps.

 

If I remember correctly, the output of the Ledburg is a low voltage. As long as you wire the switches in series with the output, you don’t have to worry about the 300V. That might be the maximum input! The switches you linked to should be fine.

 

Hi Lili, the leads on your multimeter should be polarized, + = red = positive, & - = black = negative. Try checking a small battery that that has polarity marked. Start with a high range & work down . If I remember right, the Ledberg has 4- 24 V outputs.

 

Thank you both, will do all you've said and then message again once I've progressed. Kindergarten day means priming, sanding and staining like crazy while he's there. Fortunately I can keep bits on the communal smoker's balcony to dry while he's home.

 

Lili, how many items plug into a wall outlet ? If more than 2 ,might consider using a " Temporary Power Tap " an AC cord attached to switch, circuit breaker, & 4 or more AC outlet sockets.

 

Hi Bernard, so sorry for the delayed response here!

Oven has one power outlet
Sink has one
Microwave, dishwasher and lights run from another.

Yes, I would power these from an extension (or as you've called it a Temporary Power Tap) and if you suggestion I should get a surge protector then I will. I intend to fit a switch onto the tap so that I can stop it being turned on if there's no water or I wish to restrict play. The rest can stay on but I'm fitting switches to the counter lights for the same reason.

Countertop has been successfully stained, priming other pieces today.
PS looked at my flexible neons, don't think I need to cut them, I'll run the white one round the perimeter of the top of the oven which will take up more than a metre I'm sure.

 

I made a rough sketch of my interpretation of your power distribution based on parts on hand.
Most of the AC adapters take up more than one space on Power Tap. The 6V module takes up 3 spaces as the output cord would over lap the SW. Only one 12V supply should be needed. 6V is for surface burners. 5V was not resolved. The remaining outlet is for Ledberg thing.
On some AC adapter pins are in line with case & some are crosswise. Confused ? Me too. Scale is 1 cm / square.

 

I made a rough sketch of my interpretation of your power distribution based on parts on hand.
Most of the AC adapters take up more than one space on Power Tap. The 6V module takes up 3 spaces as the output cord would over lap the SW. Only one 12V supply should be needed. 6V is for surface burners. 5V was not resolved. The remaining outlet is for Ledberg thing.
On some AC adapter pins are in line with case & some are crosswise. Confused ? Me too. Scale is 1 cm / square.View attachment 214717

Hi Bernard, not sure what you mean by the surface burners -the oven? If you mean the stove that runs on batteries.

Yes I'm really confused haha!

Progress: Need another can of black and silver spray paints, most of the black and silver parts have been painted. Will probably, get the black and silver spray tomorrow, spray the plastic bits and the last bit that needs to be sprayed black and silver and then rest. Monday my son is back at kindy normal hours. I'll be able to do a lot of painting so expect to be all done by Wednesday then it'll just be a case of putting the whole thing together. Probably get started doing all the wiring etc Thursday/Friday.

 

A 6 V AC adapter is about the same cost as one set of batteries, mine cost US$ 2.50.

 

A 6 V AC adapter is about the same cost as one set of batteries, mine cost US$ 2.50.

Hi Bernard, I think you mentioned this before, I did look it up but had no joy finding it. Is there a link you could provide me with? This would mean that the stove could run from the mains and not batteries right?

 

Lili, we talked about surface burners on page 2, post # 29. I've sketched out a typical 4 cell AA battery box with power output from cell A & B, yours could be different. To supply external power
we have made 2 artificial batteries from 1 to 1.3 cm dia. X 4.5 cm long wood rods. A is + battery
which has a small round head screw holding a red wire. For B , black just stripped 2 cm, wrapped over end of rod and held in place with tape. If there is a cover cut a notch on output side between A & B to bring out leads, these are input leads from 6 V AC adapter. C & D positions are empty.
The power output leads may not show on your battery box so to see where substitute A goes ,no batteries, with meter on low ohms, one lead on a + contact, sample all other contacts; if no continuity is seen then that is position A. Sample other + contacts the same way and each should show continuity with one other contact. Do the same way with - contact. Wood rods no not need to be round.
I'll be back Monday.

 

Lili, I made a sketch of what the microwave panel might look like with individual components. I
was going to bread board it but was short on some of the ICs. A push button switch, TIME, would advance the up/down counter from 0 to 9 displayed on large 7 seg. display. Each press of TIME SW also causes Z to bing. Pressing START would set flip-flop 4013 which starts vibrator motor and starts a 555 oscillator, maybe set for 2 sec to stretch out timing a bit, which then causes the counter to count down. When reaching 0, F- F is reset, single stroke bell chimes.

 

Another thought Lili, the stove top burners are rated for 4 AA batteries which might drop down to 5V after a few hours use and might still be bright enough, so you might want to try operating stove on the 5V AC converter to eliminate the need for a 6V PS, power supply. Still looking for your list or picture of materials on hand. Re- post # 81.

 

Hi Bernard, so sorry. I got a notification for this one but not your other posts and didn't have time to check back. Someone else is building the microwave for me...think he's going to be late sending it though as I've not heard from him :-(

I'll check through your posts and respond accordingly. I was caught up with painting etc etc this week and every day the bump is getting bigger and I'm getting slower lol! So last coat of paint to do now but what I intend to do tomorrow is lay out all the bits and photograph them for the thread. I intend to build Weds/Thursday.

 

Another thought Lili, the stove top burners are rated for 4 AA batteries which might drop down to 5V after a few hours use and might still be bright enough, so you might want to try operating stove on the 5V AC converter to eliminate the need for a 6V PS, power supply. Still looking for your list or picture of materials on hand. Re- post # 81.

Bernard here are the bits, I hope the pictures are clear.
Where to start?