Attaching an E L Wire to a switch, what do I need to do please (basic schematic attached)

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,788
On line there are several vendors for- LM2596 Step-Down Adjustable DC-DC Switching Buck Converter. Around US$ 2.00.
Lili, has interconnecting system been worked out?
Can the strip above the oven door be easily removed for counter drilling?
 
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Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
178
Hi Bernard so to answer a few points:
Yes the strip can be removed, I will do all my drilling before I put it together, I will be painting the kitchen and decorating it too.
Duktig stove, I don't know much about it, I don't think it dims but it has two buttons that light up rings: first push = one ring, second push = two rings and then I think third push turns it all off.
Adafruit have distributers in Germany and they also send there. As long as it's not unreasonable I'm happy to buy from the US just need it in time, son's birthday is end of August.
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
178
I believe the Duktig stove top operates on 4 AA, alk. batteries which could be operated from a 6V power supply or if 12V is
available then a buck converter adjusted to 6V . Would need to know more about how the burners are switched and dimmed.
Lili, where are you getting the " neon rope" from, as they might also carry the Adafruit SMPS, 12V, 5A with euro plug.
Best that I can do on parts:
Switch. Rota-Slide, DPDT, 1/4" x 1/2" shaft, Mouser # 611-H20207RR01Q, L 4.80
Pot. Alpha, RV24AF-10-15F-B5k-LA; 6mm D shaft. Mouser# 313-2441F-5k; L 1.72
Pot. Mouser # 313-2441F-50k; L1.7
Transistor. TIP 120, Darlington 5A, 60V, TO220; Mouser # 511-TIP120, L0.507
Wire 22AWG, stranded, red. Mouser# 474-PRT-08865. Black # 474-PRT-08867. Each L 2.34
Length, spool ??
Right! This is great, I was a bit cross-eyed reading it at first but now I am putting in the numbers and they are all coming up and it's all making sense.
Questions:
What was decided on the power source? Is it the Ledberg or do I need to get something else?
What is the Wire 22AWG? Why do I need a red and black one.
Do I still need to buy the neon wire? If so yes will get from Adafruit and will enquire if I can get with a euro plug.
Where do I get the buck converter? Do I really need one?
When you asked me about the interconnection system, sorry I didn't understand what that meant.
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,788
Lili, if you use the white & red " neon" rope then you need a 12v supply. Each meter needs
about 10W, add in other 12V requirements & V shifted loads like surface burners. As suggested last year a 12V @ 5A supply should work.
A buck converter is not needed for stove top burner if continuing to use batteries.
Two wire colors are suggested to distinguish between positive & negative. Most items are polarity sensitive.
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
178
Lili, if you use the white & red " neon" rope then you need a 12v supply. Each meter needs
about 10W, add in other 12V requirements & V shifted loads like surface burners. As suggested last year a 12V @ 5A supply should work.
A buck converter is not needed for stove top burner if continuing to use batteries.
Two wire colors are suggested to distinguish between positive & negative. Most items are polarity sensitive.
Thanks Bernard, it's ever clearer. So last thing, if I buy all of those items do I also still need to buy the neon rope separately from Adafruit?

I'll stick to batteries for the stove. That's within my paygrade ;-)

Happy 4th of July! :)
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,788
Lili, one possible way to mount the pot & switch is to use the long knob shaft adapters and mount them on a sub sheet metal panel which is then screwed to the back of the wood panel. The wood panel is drilled to fit the knob adapters, and slightly recessed to clear the nuts. Align the anti-rotation tabs so that in the off positions the knobs face in desired direction.
Lili, do you have a multi meter ? If sometimes I do not seem to make sense, remember that I'm
93, can't walk a straight line, & my memory has hickups.
As for surface burners , buck converter can be added later.
Adafruit probably has the "neon" rope now, Mouser maybe late next month.
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
178
Lili, one possible way to mount the pot & switch is to use the long knob shaft adapters and mount them on a sub sheet metal panel which is then screwed to the back of the wood panel. The wood panel is drilled to fit the knob adapters, and slightly recessed to clear the nuts. Align the anti-rotation tabs so that in the off positions the knobs face in desired direction.
Lili, do you have a multi meter ? If sometimes I do not seem to make sense, remember that I'm
93, can't walk a straight line, & my memory has hickups.
As for surface burners , buck converter can be added later.
Adafruit probably has the "neon" rope now, Mouser maybe late next month.
Bernard, you rock and I hope I am half as clever as you at 53!! No please, it's not you. It's me I am a COMPLETE noob to all of this. Before this I could barely tell the difference between volts and amps and still amd clueless about transistors and resistors and other simple electronic stuff so please don't think I'm insulting you when I say I don't understand, it's solely down to my understanding nothing to do with you.

Yes I do have a multimeter. I think what I'm going to do is this. Order the stuff you have suggested including the wire. I hope to have the money to go to Ikea next week, there I will buy both the kitchen and the Lederg. Once I have done those things we can go very slowly you can tell me what I need to do with what? Is that okay?
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
8,061
Bernard, you rock and I hope I am half as clever as you at 53!! No please, it's not you. It's me I am a COMPLETE noob to all of this. Before this I could barely tell the difference between volts and amps and still amd clueless about transistors and resistors and other simple electronic stuff so please don't think I'm insulting you when I say I don't understand, it's solely down to my understanding nothing to do with you.

Yes I do have a multimeter. I think what I'm going to do is this. Order the stuff you have suggested including the wire. I hope to have the money to go to Ikea next week, there I will buy both the kitchen and the Lederg. Once I have done those things we can go very slowly you can tell me what I need to do with what? Is that okay?
You’ve learned quite a bit from Bernard. You should be proud.
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,788
Just in case, Power supply, 12V out @ 5A, Mouser PN # 184-903-0126-000, L24.94; same price as Adafruit's .
Plug adapter, Mouser# 552-RP Kit-R, L 2.38: 4 pieces, US,UK, Euro, Australia
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
178
Just in case, Power supply, 12V out @ 5A, Mouser PN # 184-903-0126-000, L24.94; same price as Adafruit's .
Plug adapter, Mouser# 552-RP Kit-R, L 2.38: 4 pieces, US,UK, Euro, Australia
Coool. Okay, I am going to order all of these things plus the other stuff. So it'll go quiet while I wait for stuff to be delivered. Thank you so much for helping me get to this point Bernard. I REALLY appreciate it. (((hugs)))
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,788
I added a rear view drawing to show wiring. R1 & SW2 will have knobs, R2 can be temporary or kept in place, either glued to sub panel or mounted with a Z bracket, no knob needed.
As inter connecting arrangement is unknown to me terminal strips are shown as TS1 & TS2. External connections are:
+ 12V from SMPS + to TS1-D1, - to TS2-D1.
White LED oven light + to TS1-B2, - to TS2-B1.
Red LED oven light + to TS1-C2, - to TS2-C1.
TS1&2 A 1&2 spare
The Transistor needs a heat sink & if proper insulation can be provided The pot-SW mounting plate would be fine.Scan.jpg
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
178
Bernard! Your drawing is perfect, so clear and I feel I could actually build it from that alone. A couple of questions:

I've not ordered anything yet as I was waiting for some money (which arrived today). Do I need to buy a heat sink? It's not on my list, so what exactly should I go for please? I put heat sink into mouser but didn't know what exactly I was looking for.

Bernard you mentioned that I need some wood to mount this on, could you elaborate? I have a couple of small planks and I can keep them to one side to use if necessary. :)
We are getting there! I'll press order once I hear from you, in my basket:
Power supply, 12V
Plug adapter
Switch. Rota-Slide (x2)
Pot. Alpha
Pot. Mouser
Transistor
Wire 22AWG, stranded, red
Wire 22AWG Black

I have one of everything except the switches, I put two. Do I need two transistors too Bernard? Once I hear from you regarding the heat sink and quanities, I'll order :)
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,788
Not on list:
Knobs
TO-220 mounting hardware, Mouser# 534-4724, L 1.72
Euro terminal strip, 8mm, 10 circuits, Mouser # 538-39100-1910, L 2.66.
" Neon" rope?
With TO-220 hardware the transistor can be mounted on POT-SW mounting plate which is then the heat sink.
" some wood"??, might refer to panel above oven door, of which we have no dimensions including material & thickness.
This project is getting really expensive.
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
178
Not on list:
Knobs
TO-220 mounting hardware, Mouser# 534-4724, L 1.72
Euro terminal strip, 8mm, 10 circuits, Mouser # 538-39100-1910, L 2.66.
" Neon" rope?
With TO-220 hardware the transistor can be mounted on POT-SW mounting plate which is then the heat sink.
" some wood"??, might refer to panel above oven door, of which we have no dimensions including material & thickness.
This project is getting really expensive.
The wood is already there, when I get the kitchen next week/week after I'll be able to measure it all.
Got the red rope (last item in Europe by the looks of things!)
Have added white to the basket.
For costs: It is what it is. I don't mind pushing the boat out for my son to have something nice. He's a good kid besides once he has that, that's it. He doesn't get a lot of things and to be fair he has wanted a kitchen for literally years. I'm looking forward to him having what he wants, plus we're expecting another baby so it'll get played with for years to come.

Right I've got everything in my basket and I'm ready to order. :)
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,788
Lili, I guess that congratulations are in order.
More questions. Do you have the 12V pump? To accommodate a water reserve tank the dish washer compartment could be shrunk to 12 in. deep with a panel. A tank on the bottom, 12" x 2.5" x 6" =187 cu. in. =about 3 liters. Space above could mount the power supply & other fixed equipment like buck converter?
How about a momentary pushbutton SW for pump?
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
178
Lili, I guess that congratulations are in order.
More questions. Do you have the 12V pump? To accommodate a water reserve tank the dish washer compartment could be shrunk to 12 in. deep with a panel. A tank on the bottom, 12" x 2.5" x 6" =187 cu. in. =about 3 liters. Space above could mount the power supply & other fixed equipment like buck converter?
Thank you Bernard! Yes we're all excited, due December :)

Yes, got the pump and all the bits to go with it, got a proper camping tap as well and a drain so the plan is to install the drain and connect the hose to a water tank (bucket with lid), pump is inside with hose flowing to the tap so that's how the water will cycle round, I can connect the tap to the pump and then also to a converter so when the tap comes on it turns on the pump too. Of all the parts of this project I have found the most information about it online and was never worried about it. I wanted it to be separate to the rest of the kitchen so I could turn the water off if I didn't want it played with for some reason. I don't expect to have too much drama with that element....famous last words!! :)
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,788
Warm white LED strip finally arrived. The shape is a bit different than expected, A white silicone U channel closed on top with a tube of translucent silicone, one edge has a grey stripe with markings every 2.5 cm which on inside has the LED strip. When cut on a mark a small bit of the power buss bars is exposed, bottom +, top _. With care leads were soldered on, LEDs still lit.
Biggest problem seems to be attachment, hot glue peals off, DUCO, acetone solvent, pealed.
Maybe some form of mechanical attachment ?
Maybe for light & burner the " rope could ted tied with thread to a thin cardboard substrate?
 
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