One meter doesn't go very far in making a spiral. Circle diameters of 3",4", & 5" circumfrences adds up to about 38 " or 95.7 cm.

 

Drew out a spiral ( oven burner ) to see what 1M of LED would look like. Fine wire was wrapped around a 5 mm
central rod to draw.

 

I ordered 1 meter of warm white just to see what it looks like.

Hi Bernard, how are you getting on? What did you think of your warm white? I haven't yet got the kitchen, long story but it seems Ikea have stopped selling their birch ones so I need to get one elsewhere. Be in touch soon, hope all's well.

Edit: BERNARD! Didn't get notified about your comments!!! I wasn't going to make a panel but an up and down shape like at the back of a fridge. Not sure if you know what I mean. I don't need a lot of space. The oven isn't that big.

 

Lili, the warm white looks just like the pictures, nice and bright, @ 12V would make a nice reading light. Could use 50 cm for 2 lights or where ever white light is needed. The oven light dimming
is smooth from off to bright but not full brightness as there is a V drop in the transistor.
Why do we need R2 ? We no not if we no not mind rotating R1 half way before anything happens.
The LED rope needs about 7V before there is any sign of light & R2 allows R1 to be pre-biased to
the 7V start point. R2 after desired value has bee set, it could be replaced with a fixed value R.
I'm keeping isolated as much as possible and with all of this free time I'm getting less done. I did take a day to make me a mail box monitor, posted on "Chat" several days ago & it is working great
, no dry runs to check delivery.

 

Lili, the warm white looks just like the pictures, nice and bright, @ 12V would make a nice reading light. Could use 50 cm for 2 lights or where ever white light is needed. The oven light dimming
is smooth from off to bright but not full brightness as there is a V drop in the transistor.
Why do we need R2 ? We no not if we no not mind rotating R1 half way before anything happens.
The LED rope needs about 7V before there is any sign of light & R2 allows R1 to be pre-biased to
the 7V start point. R2 after desired value has bee set, it could be replaced with a fixed value R.
I'm keeping isolated as much as possible and with all of this free time I'm getting less done. I did take a day to make me a mail box monitor, posted on "Chat" several days ago & it is working great
, no dry runs to check delivery.

Hi Bernard, I am so glad to hear you are taking care of yourself and your health and isolating, I am not isolating I did as I am high risk but now cases are low here and it's not practical as I need to take my son to kindergarten and do other things but I only make necessary trips. We're all wearing masks here so it's clearly helping the situation. I need to check my settings as I'm not getting reply notifications so forgive the lack of promptness. We finally got the kitchen and I'm starting to sand and paint it today, my son is away for the weekend with his dad.

I just saw your other reply, really good. When I am ready to start this I am going to write to you again. I hope we can go over it very slowly so it's literally a case of "the ankle bone's connected to the calf bone" but I am pleased to say that I've learnt enough now that I did understand about 80% of what you were saying when you connected the lights.

Doesn't matter if the white light is dim. I think I have some cable grips. I was thinking to use those, I didn't see the clips that I think Adafruit sell. They looked good.

 

One third of LED strip gives 3- 10.6 cm dia. white lights. Each is bright enough to read by.
To simplify the dimming circuit, replace pot. R2 with a 9.1 k 1/4 W resistor which will give
a small dead zone. 10k = some light at minimum setting. The 50k can be used when playing with PWM.
What knobs do you have, Lili? How thick is the switch mounting board ?

 

One third of LED strip gives 3- 10.6 cm dia. white lights. Each is bright enough to read by.
To simplify the dimming circuit, replace pot. R2 with a 9.1 k 1/4 W resistor which will give
a small dead zone. 10k = some light at minimum setting. The 50k can be used when playing with PWM.
What knobs do you have, Lili? How thick is the switch mounting board ?

Hi Bernard, seems my settings are fixed!

I got these knobs from Amazon, they come with various d-shaft sizes and I like the fact they come with both temperature and sequential facias so that makes it really realistic for play.

Do I have one of the resistors you mentioned or should I get one?

The mounting board is 1cm (3/8th of an inch I believe). Is that going to be thick enough? I kept some other wood if necessary.

By the way I ordered some see-through clips for holding the led rope.

 

There is no rush to run out to buy a resistor, there might be other small parts needed?
I'll be back Monday.

 

There is no rush to run out to buy a resistor, there might be other small parts needed?
I'll be back Monday.

Fab, have a great weekend Bernard. I've been sorting and sanding the kitchen parts and am off to bed. Speak Monday then.

 

First problem is knob pointer alignment with pot & switch. With SW, knob in vertical position we just need to know where anti- rotation tab is & we drill a small hole to lock SW position & remember its position as it is pos. 7 location.
With pot we can not randomly position it. It would be best if contacts are aligned with long length of board for board strength, so Lili, could you make up a knob & shaft adapter for 6 mm
D shaft to see how many positions the adapter will fit into knob?
I have a 12 mm thick piece of plywood which I drilled 3- 8 mm holes with 18 mm radius & separated by 8 mm to depth of 8 mm leaving 4 mm of wood. Then drilled a 6mm center hole clear thru as a pilot for a 1" spade bit. Drilled leaving 4 mm. My pot is 3/8 bushing so reamed center
hole to 3/8". Just a little clean out with a knife & pot fit just fine. Just suggestions not directions.
I'm wandering around in a fog but outside it's 103 deg. F & clear blue sky.

 

Lili. I forgot to post my post, was ready 3 hours ago.

 

hahaha! No worries Bernard, ended up having a rather strange day and weirder night -nothing bad just people telling me stuff that was interesting and that meant I didn't get to message you.

Okay, I've finished sanding so the next step is to Prime all the wood ready for its final coating! Here's hoping I have enough.

So in terms of electronics, I've managed to get the pump and tap to work and now I've got all my components for the oven in one place. Okay so I have two Potentiometers, one is a two position click thing (is that the SW in the schematic?) and the other is a smooth one. I am going to use the two click one for the white light and the other for the red.

We discussed a heat sink, the depth of the wood is about 12mm in the kitchen, do I still need another piece? Probably ready to start building in a couple of weeks, when the boy is back at kindergarten and I have the day to myself.

 

Yes, the " pot" that goes click is the SW. Now that the SW- POT mounting plate is gone the heat sink might be a piece of Al. about 2 mm thick, 30 X 60 with 20 mm on each end bent up to form a U. Drill a hole to fit mounting hardware. My guestimate for the SW mounting board is: 50 X 625 X 12 mm. Over the oven about 312 mm. Spacing of SW & pot shown as 80 but it is dealers choice.

 

Hi Bernard, I'm still not clear on this whole heat sink thing but in asking questions elsewhere I think I'm getting what you mean. Do you mean to use a solder lug washer? I wasn't sure what you meant by AI. I have the space to fit the POTs as you suggest.

 

The heat sink can be made from aluminum, Al, brass, or copper. Al. 1.5 to 2 mm or maybe 4 layers of Al. soda- beer can with ends bent at different angles.
If TO 220 mounting hardware, Keystone # 4724, Mouser # 534-4724 is on hand, just the shoulder washer & mica insulator are needed. The shoulder washer should fit in hole in transistor, if not ream out hole to fit. On several different TO 220 cases, the holes were not all the same. The HS is just for safety- no + 12V on HS. Questions? After thought. Lili, where did you find the neon -like LED strip mounting clips.

 

Hi Bernard how about this heatsink? it's 15mm by 20mm

https://www.ebay.de/itm/1-5-10-Kuhl...157702?hash=item4da810d706:g:-bwAAOSw9hteW-5b

I get a need the heat sink but can't quite see where it will go, no worries though when I start I will take a picture of all my parts and we can literally do it as join A to B, once I can understand it/see it in my mind it'll be easier, I get it about 60% right now

 

If we took a poll on the need for a HS, 75% = NO, 25% = Yes, I voted NO but would add the HS
anyway. The transistor @ 1/2 power runs warm, but just small changes can turn warm to hot.
Lili, are Al. cans available? Note that my avatar , Sopwith Camel, is made from beer cans so why not use for a simple HS. I would put the HS between the SW & Pot. post # 70. Note that sketch is shown looking at the front but drilled from the back. We still do not know which direction the pot contacts will point.

 

If we took a poll on the need for a HS, 75% = NO, 25% = Yes, I voted NO but would add the HS
anyway. The transistor @ 1/2 power runs warm, but just small changes can turn warm to hot.
Lili, are Al. cans available? Note that my avatar , Sopwith Camel, is made from beer cans so why not use for a simple HS. I would put the HS between the SW & Pot. post # 70. Note that sketch is shown looking at the front but drilled from the back. We still do not know which direction the pot contacts will point.

Do you mean aluminium cans Bernard? If so I don't think so because of recycling, if you're saying go for a heat sink, I'd rather just buy one, would the one on the link I sent be okay? Easier than trying to make something. Didn't realise the plane was made out of cans, how cool!

 

Do you mean aluminium cans Bernard? If so I don't think so because of recycling, if you're saying go for a heat sink, I'd rather just buy one, would the one on the link I sent be okay? Easier than trying to make something. Didn't realise the plane was made out of cans, how cool!

Hello! I’m sure Bernard means aluminum cans. Using one for raw materials is cheap for materials. And the rest of the can may be recyclable.

 

The HS in attachment is fine. HS is threaded so drill another hole for a wood screw to attach HS to
wood strip.