Hang on, I think I see the problem!

 

Hang on, I think I see the problem!

Yikes!!!

I wonder how much that job pays. With any luck, he might be able to save enough so his family can afford to pay these folks when their services are needed:

 

Hehe...

 

The above picture could be handy to cool down the wiring in the case of extreme overloads.

 

 

My humble contribution with a PIC 18F

 

My humble contribution with a PIC 18F.

At least no one is likely to get killed with that error.

 

My contribution to the thread involves the wiring to my garage. It had a fuse box at one end and four outlets strung along the beam at the front of the garage. Seems simple enough but the installation had been done when ungrounded duplex outlets were still widely used. It was strange because the wire that was used was two wire romex with ground. Someone had replaced two of the outlets with grounded duplex outlets. When I tested them, I found the ground was not connected, so I opened each of the receptacle boxes. I couldn't find the ground wires. Digging further, I found that someone had snipped the ground wire as the romex came into each of the boxes!

 

Yikes!!!

I wonder how much that job pays. With any luck, he might be able to save enough so his family can afford to pay these folks when their services are needed:

In many parts of India, the people are too poor to have electricity installed, often the answer is to find a friendly local electrician and bung him a couple of Rupee's for him to run an extension cord off a nearby pole!
Max.

 

Cannot-help-myself....

 

MacGyvers at it again...

 

I can guess at the country of origin in that sidewalk photo,there are others asking "is this where we call for tech support?" The brass tube fuses may have been because there was no need for fusing the line at that point. It could be fine as a local shutoff for an air conditioner outside compressor unit, with the feed coming from a circuit breaker distribution panel. I have had to deal with that situation, where one cartridge fuse opens and because the breaker had not tripped a service tech was called and it was a $100 fuse replacement because there was no other problem, except that the fuse holder connection was a bit weak. The fuse box was used because they did not have a disconnect switch.

 

A real masterpiece of a diagram:

​

 

Wouldn't work. There is a short across the 50V battery.

 

Wish I had photographed some of the gaffs in my home. Lamp cord in the wall to a switch and desk lamp. A light over the fireplace that was wired (the hot) to a feed to a plug - the insulation stripped off and the black wire skinned and wrapped, then soldered, THEN (the neutral) wired to the leader that goes to the next plug - the insulation stripped off the white wire, skinned and wrapped, then soldered. Hot and Neutral, both from different lines (same leg), soldered and taped up with black tape.

No where near the engineering level of the opening photos. But on that note - even the anti-trip 20 amp breaker, wouldn't it still trip internally? If so, resetting it would be a nightmare. Especially if it controlled the light over the breaker panel.

 

the insulation stripped off and the black wire skinned and wrapped, then soldered,

That was the way it was done, in the days of tube and knob house wiring.

 

That was the way it was done, in the days of tube and knob house wiring.

Wish I had photographed some of the gaffs in my home. Lamp cord in the wall to a switch and desk lamp. A light over the fireplace that was wired (the hot) to a feed to a plug - the insulation stripped off and the black wire skinned and wrapped, then soldered, THEN (the neutral) wired to the leader that goes to the next plug - the insulation stripped off the white wire, skinned and wrapped, then soldered. Hot and Neutral, both from different lines (same leg), soldered and taped up with black tape.

No where near the engineering level of the opening photos. But on that note - even the anti-trip 20 amp breaker, wouldn't it still trip internally? If so, resetting it would be a nightmare. Especially if it controlled the light over the breaker panel.

Been there and fought that, told the lady that I was not trying to be scary, but that she REALLY needed smoke detectors in every room.
But the fun one was a friend's house that had been renovated before they bought it. New outlets, 12 of them, each with a GFCI, all around the basement. I had connected to the neutral for adding a light upstairs, and as soon as I made contact the circuit went dead. So it was tracing time to locate the problem. Each of the GFCI devices were wired independently across the line, so that a fault would only trip that one. Until I got to the one at the start of the string, which had the green LED glowing, showing that it was OK, but the outlet was dead. I found that the supply had been tied to the outlet terminals, and the rest of the string tied to the supply terminals. So once it tripped it could not be reset, but the green LED stayed on. So I moved the feed to the supply terminals and everything worked. But it took several minutes to find the failure.

 

That was the way it was done, in the days of tube and knob house wiring.

For got to say, the soldering was probably done using a "soldering copper" heated in the flame of a gasoline powered blow torch. Like this -

 

For got to say, the soldering was probably done using a "soldering copper" heated in the flame of a gasoline powered blow torch. Like this -

ALA post #38!
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...ncerns-about-fumes.149519/page-2#post-1278285
Max.

 

Reminds me of when I got my first soldering iron as a teenager. I instantly got on the good books of my grand aunt (who was extremely frugal) as I would mend all her leaky pots and pans.

Little did I know about lead poisoning then. I am sure it didn't kill her. She lived well into her nineties.