12v Dc Sockets

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Muttley600

Joined Jan 15, 2012
15
What I do not understand is the removing shunt sleeve part...what does it got to do with LED lightning.
ok, please excuse my poor excuse for a diagram, but like all great exporers I took a socket apart to see how it worked.lol



When I connect power to to center pin (+) & sleeve (-) because the sleeve shunt grounds the sleeve when a jack is not plugged in, it creates the circuit, meaning led is on when jack is not in socket
This gives me led light because power is supplied to + & -
I'm thinking if I removed the shunt, the circuit would only be made when a jack is plugged in because the - has no way of connecting circuit without the shunt until jack is plugged in

So what Happened to the Fuse blown indicating thingy part or what ever ?
hopefully, if led lights when jack is plugged it, it will not work if fuse goes meaning I have that too?


Still, to light the LED when that respective plug is in use means u have to inc operate a load sensing circuit. Small little thingamabob will do.

But for that u need to be able to do some practical soldering besides LED and resistors.
Now this is sounding like fun :D so what are you calling pratical soldering?
 

thatoneguy

Joined Feb 19, 2009
6,359
What is the estimated current draw?

I'd add a Pi Filter of 2 large caps and the largest inductor you can get away with for the amperage you are looking at. That way the devices get clean power as well. Pi filter is a cap to ground, inductor in series with power, then another cap to ground.

I'd also suggest a PTC fuse within 3" of where the power for this box connects to the battery, maybe 10A or so, assuming 5-7A load.
 

R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,918
U guys are hilarious. :D

It's not a current shunt...well..er! atleast I don not call it tht. Come to think of it, I do not call it anything.

What I believe that shunt thing is a switch of some sort. Say when the plug is used with a battery and supply circuit. The socket will cut off battery when the adapter is plugged in. Get my point.

It's just a simple cuttoff contacts.

But what you want is pretty easy the way I see it.

Practical soldering means u have to deal with transistors..
Are u familiar with that device ?

I might cook up a diagram of the sort, but later at midnight..Just got back form the day job...night job is due now.
 

Thread Starter

Muttley600

Joined Jan 15, 2012
15
What is the estimated current draw?

I'd add a Pi Filter of 2 large caps and the largest inductor you can get away with for the amperage you are looking at. That way the devices get clean power as well. Pi filter is a cap to ground, inductor in series with power, then another cap to ground.

I'd also suggest a PTC fuse within 3" of where the power for this box connects to the battery, maybe 10A or so, assuming 5-7A load.
Hold that thought until I finish work:D
 

R!f@@

Joined Apr 2, 2009
9,918
Take a look at the file..

I drew it with 1 Amp in mind.

The LED's will work the way u want if you wire it properly.
The components should be placed in certain ways to suppress spikes as such.

But to go for higher currents, U will need to add the filters per oneguy's post. Automotive is noisy. I really dunno if that a simple 78 reg will survive.
But for ur app at higher currents you will need a robust 5 V regulator capable to ur load.

U can use the circuit I showed for 12V. with a heavy duty current track and with a 10A automotive fuse. U can replicate the circuit for addition 12V paths. U will need those caps to eliminate noise being injected into the device u will be using. The unmarked caps are all 100nF ceramic types.

For 5V..u will need a suitable high current regulator in stead of the 7805 shown in the diagram. same goes for fuse too.

All ur wires and tracks should be heavy duty, otherwise they will burn up.

before going on building one. Leave the circuit for some comments from other members. I drew it up quite fast. Don't have much time on hand right now.

Fuse LED's will light if respective fuse Blows. And the others will light when a jack is plugged in. This is not load sensing.
 

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Georacer

Joined Nov 25, 2009
5,182
I 'll have to put a halt in the thread at this point. Us mods are discussing right now about the legitimacy of such a modification, given that the current ToS and the fact that motorbikes don't have a ready-made 12V plug.

This project actually is on the borderline of our ToS and that is reflected on how many Senior Members came to aid. However, we don't think that gadgetry on a bike is the best idea one can have.

We would appreciate if Muttley600 PMed me or Bill_Marsden (we 're the most frequent), giving us an idea of the accessories that are mounted on the bike.

The thread will be closed for now, until we come to an agreement.
 

Georacer

Joined Nov 25, 2009
5,182
Muttley600,

Before I say anything else, I must say that you have built a touring bike that has remarkable workmanship, elegance and effectiveness. I am really impressed by your pictures.

Sadly, the truth still is that the admins of this site don't want automotive (and motorbike) modifications discussed here, for their own reasons that mostly involve safety and liability.
Therefore, this thread will remain closed.

I recommend that you browse the websites provided in this link, as they are more specialized in automotive matters:
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=54400

I wish you figure it out in the end and that we may see you in the future for other non-automotive projects.
 
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