Unfortunately not @bwilliams60 . The pressure of the gas was within the specification too. I'm just trying to find and read articles about motronic M 1.5 and how to test the ecu.
That's the only option and possibly the last one that i have in mind.
A couple of things. I will have to go and reread what was done but @shortbus seems to have covered off quite a few very nicely.
1) Have you changed the oil and filter? When a car has been flooded such as this, the oil will be heavily contaminated with fuel. Pull out the dipstick and check for a fuel smell. Try to light the oil on the dipstick. If it lights you know there is fuel in the crankcase.
2) If you are running OBDI, you can pull codes by jumping two pins. Cant remember off the top of my head but a quick Googlesearch will help. If there are no codes, fuel injection system probably okay.
3) You are getting fuel. That leaves air and spark. Are you getting air to the intake side? Air filter restricted? Snorkel? Intake air valve? Do you have a good strong blue spark at the ignition coil wire or is it yellow/orange?
Also want to look at the exhaust. Does it have a catalytic converter on it? If so, can you remove the oxygen sensor and see if it will start properly?
4) Those harnesses that you are looking at. I find it highly unusual that both connectors are fully populated. In modern OBDII connecors, most cars even newer ones do not have a fully populated connector and I can tell you for sure that OBD I was not fully populated either. There are no direct correlations between the two other than power and ground and maybe another pin or two so not exactly sure what they are doing.
An OBD I scan tool will talk to your car and are easy to find on the Internet but I do not think that an OBD II scan tool will connect but I may be wrong. As @shortbus pointed out, they (OEMs) all had different connectors with OBD I.
5) The firecracker sound has me a little concerned as does the code 31. If you had several "leaks" in the high tension wires, you may have driven the coil too hard. Is it an oil based coil or different? Question 3 should tell me what I want to know. The code 31 can be answered like this. Does it have a tachometer? If so, does it read properly as you crank it over? >125rpm? If so, then the crank sensor is working properly.
I will have more ideas but these just came to mind.
One last thought. Are you using OEM AC DELCO spark plugs or another brand. If the latter you would want to switch them out for AC Delco plus as most other brands will not run properly in that engine.
1) Have you changed the oil and filter? When a car has been flooded such as this, the oil will be heavily contaminated with fuel. Pull out the dipstick and check for a fuel smell. Try to light the oil on the dipstick. If it lights you know there is fuel in the crankcase.
2) If you are running OBDI, you can pull codes by jumping two pins. Cant remember off the top of my head but a quick Googlesearch will help. If there are no codes, fuel injection system probably okay.
3) You are getting fuel. That leaves air and spark. Are you getting air to the intake side? Air filter restricted? Snorkel? Intake air valve? Do you have a good strong blue spark at the ignition coil wire or is it yellow/orange?
Also want to look at the exhaust. Does it have a catalytic converter on it? If so, can you remove the oxygen sensor and see if it will start properly?
Yes, i've chacked the air intake. The spark plugs has been changed before this problem also. i've changed the spark plugs' wires also. (after the breaking down)
About the sparks, yes, i've checked them and all of the spark plugs have good sparks.
About the catalyst converter, no, it just has a muffler.
4) Those harnesses that you are looking at. I find it highly unusual that both connectors are fully populated. In modern OBDII connecors, most cars even newer ones do not have a fully populated connector and I can tell you for sure that OBD I was not fully populated either. There are no direct correlations between the two other than power and ground and maybe another pin or two so not exactly sure what they are doing.
An OBD I scan tool will talk to your car and are easy to find on the Internet but I do not think that an OBD II scan tool will connect but I may be wrong. As @shortbus pointed out, they (OEMs) all had different connectors with OBD I.
The car is a 1994 model, and we're under sanctions for decades. we have never had an authorized workshop here. i've searched lots of workshops here that claim to be the top ones, there is not any scan tool here.
5) The firecracker sound has me a little concerned as does the code 31. If you had several "leaks" in the high tension wires, you may have driven the coil too hard. Is it an oil based coil or different? Question 3 should tell me what I want to know. The code 31 can be answered like this. Does it have a tachometer? If so, does it read properly as you crank it over? >125rpm? If so, then the crank sensor is working properly.
The car has a distributor ignition system. And it has a tachometer and it works fine (when the engine starts sometime randomly for a small period of time) As you mentioned i guess there is nothing wrong with the crank sensor.
I guess i've mentioned this in our conversation with @shortbus. When the cylinders are dry and the spark plugs are clean and dry, the engine start in milliseconds, but mostly it stops after a small period of time. Mostly just for seconds not even a minute. I've shared a video of the injectors' excessive gas. I don't know if you watch it or not, I guess, the excessive volume of gas is the problem.
