Zoom Livetrak 12 faders not working properly after transport

Thread Starter

Monty Cash

Joined Nov 16, 2022
9
16685842324353657349799095893252.jpg

So I have pulled apart my Zoom livetrak 12 channel mixer recording unit and found nothing superficially wrong with it.

It was damaged somehow in transport and now the last fader on the right doesn't work at all.. however the second last fader somehow operates both itself and the last fader and yet sometimes only when pressure is applied will the fader value be changed and then if pushed too far up will cut out completely.

So I am guessing the fader units themselves were damaged but have no idea how the second last fader is now controlling the last fader.. considering there is no superficial damage visible whatsoever.

Questions,

Is it as simple as taking these fader units out and putting in new ones?

Or is it something else?

And.. where would I find these exact units?

I emailed Zoom and they redirected me to a distributor in Australia which just told me they don't stock these parts. So I am stumped..

This forum is a bit of a last resort..

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Monty

ps.. can still use it if I set the last two fader volumes and control those inputs from somewhere else in the signal chain.
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
6,856
Welcome to AAC.

The key to answering any of your questions in the absence of direct experience with the same problem is the other side of the PCB. A photo of that would help enormously. A schematic, possibly from a service manual, would also be extremely helpful.
 

Thread Starter

Monty Cash

Joined Nov 16, 2022
9
Ok. Will pull it apart again soon and do that. Also using it a lot.

They are ALPS sliding potentiometers with 106C-10K written on the side.

Had a discussion with a circuit shop in Hong Kong.. they couldn't find my part with that much info.. They need this long part number.

Will try emailing Zoom for the schematics for this board.
 

Thread Starter

Monty Cash

Joined Nov 16, 2022
9
Yeah.. that or.. policy restricts them from sharing it

Here are the photos of the circuit board with the potentiometersIMG_20221122_061110016.jpg
The potentiometers in question in this photo are on the left side. You can count ten on there from this photo.

IMG_20221122_061348794.jpg
The potentiometers in question are on the right side in this photo

Here are larger photos in segments
IMG_20221122_061445814.jpg
IMG_20221122_061503752.jpg

And the back again

IMG_20221122_061514895.jpg
IMG_20221122_061528436.jpg

Here is the only information on the potentiometers themselves
IMG_20221122_061551921.jpg
IMG_20221122_061614908.jpg

Info about the possible damage,

Was in a case that was well padded with other gear travelling on flights from Perth to Frankfurt... via Singapore.. then Dubai..

Arrived in Frankfurt on the conveyor case partly open.. as they couldn't close it as I locked it. The case had been dropped quite decently on one corner popping the lock.. there was a dent in the corner... arrived with a strap around it in a bag covered in yellow tape and still partly opened

Somehow super glue got into another piece of equipment.. not sure how that happened as I didn't pack any super glue with it. lol.. long story..

ok back to relevant information..

my idea is that a high level of pressure was placed on the top of the mixer particularly in the area of these two potentiometers.

there is also the possibility it has been damaged elsewhere in somewhere due to vibration but unsure as nothing is obvious... but if the unit was damaged in another way on another board I am not sure how all the other potentiometers could still be working..

ok.. mystery solvers.. here is a mystery ✊
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
6,856
In my studio days I would have desoldered and disassembled one of the faders to see if I could repair it. I did a lot of modifications on boards back then to make them do what we wanted. Very careful disassembly might reveal the problem and you can be almost completely certain the fader can be reassembled.

Since you currently can’t get a replacement, that would be my course here.
 

Thread Starter

Monty Cash

Joined Nov 16, 2022
9
Current solution is to put tape on them to stop me from even thinking about using them.

IMG_20221122_064234926.jpg

another relevant piece of info is that the two potentiometers in question were sliding as smoothly as the others even after the accident. I stuffed with them a bit since, thinking that a slight warping of the structure of the potentiometers might somehow magically pop them back into action. A failed experiment which changed nothing and now do not slide so smoothly.

Excuse me for my recklessness but honesty is key if I want honest answers.
 

Thread Starter

Monty Cash

Joined Nov 16, 2022
9
In my studio days I would have desoldered and disassembled one of the faders to see if I could repair it. I did a lot of modifications on boards back then to make them do what we wanted. Very careful disassembly might reveal the problem and you can be almost completely certain the fader can be reassembled.

Since you currently can’t get a replacement, that would be my course here.
ok. I might invest in better soldering gear than just a usb powered one and a solder sucker then... Thanks for the reply
 

Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
6,856
You can get a decent iron for relatively cheap. If you are going to use a bench, look at the KSGER soldering station. Excellent value and current technology. Be sure to get the handle without the knurled nut at the bottom.

If you want something very portable, the open source Pinecil is a great option. It’s USB-C powered (PD) and quite a serious iron for small dosh.

For desoldering, use desoldering braid. Get some good 63/37 alloy lead solder, do not use lead free. Adding a little solder to the pins can help if it is using lead-free solder. Once more option is desoldering alloy. It’s a very low melting point alloy that alloys with the solder and makes it liquid for a long time.

The parts just drop out. If you use it, clean all the residue from the pads you desoldered from, clean as you can. Then clean the iron thoroughly. If any is left, it can be a really frustrating experience trying to solder anything else.

Any questions? Just ask.
 

Thread Starter

Monty Cash

Joined Nov 16, 2022
9
You can get a decent iron for relatively cheap. If you are going to use a bench, look at the KSGER soldering station. Excellent value and current technology. Be sure to get the handle without the knurled nut at the bottom.

If you want something very portable, the open source Pinecil is a great option. It’s USB-C powered (PD) and quite a serious iron for small dosh.

For desoldering, use desoldering braid. Get some good 63/37 alloy lead solder, do not use lead free. Adding a little solder to the pins can help if it is using lead-free solder. Once more option is desoldering alloy. It’s a very low melting point alloy that alloys with the solder and makes it liquid for a long time.

The parts just drop out. If you use it, clean all the residue from the pads you desoldered from, clean as you can. Then clean the iron thoroughly. If any is left, it can be a really frustrating experience trying to solder anything else.

Any questions? Just ask.
Thanks a bunch. Will invest in some decent gear next pay so I can get on top of this. Great to get a reference point on this issue!
 
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