Another simple option would be to have both the normal battery for operation and then switch between the two external batteries in sequence. AND, keep in mind that if you have the computer clock speed set for max performance that is also maximum power consumption. It is all a tradeoff, which is important to understand. And it may be that you can't work that many hours away from mains power, no matter what you want.

 

can you tell us the actual model number of the laptop ?

 

Do a little homework on the AC adapter before spending more money. Some laptop AC adapters communicate with the laptop, and the laptop may not work correctly if the communication doesn't work as expected. When you say your external battery shuts off, does it actually shut off? Or does the power output just go to zero? If the power output just goes to zero, it could possibly be that the laptop just stops taking power from it. I really don't know any thing about your laptop, but this is something worth looking into before spending more money. Here's an article about a Dell laptop that works this way, it's just what came up first in google but it's an example of what I'm referring to:

https://www.laptop-junction.com/toast/content/inside-dell-ac-power-adapter-mystery-revealed

Thank you for this. It most definitely has a center pin so a total of 3 points of contact in the laptop. From reading that post, the center one is the "communication" channel. I am not sure if it is an actual communication channel, or simply a "is this charger genuine" check.

I ended up wining an ebay bid for another battery pack. So I am just going to go ahead and try it out by putting the two in parallel and if it doesn't work, we know why.

I was also thinking of chopping my charger cord, only connecting + and - leads, then plugging it in and see what happens. I can plug in the plug half way and it still charges. Whether or not that center pin is in contact is unknown. I was thinking of using a paint marker to cover the center pin and then use ISO to clean it off afterwards. I may try that since its simple and non-destructive.

I know you’re trying to find a solution for your existing laptop, but the suggestion to buy a device that matches your needs in the first place is sound.

I had an HP laptop where a second battery to extend the laptops operating life, was built in to the design. A second battery just snapped onto the back of the laptop. No opening the case. No matching power requirements. No screwdrivers.

I would absolutely love something like this. But sadly I could not afford two laptops. My current laptop is also my work laptop and my personal one. It needs a dedicated GPU for gaming, and a relatively good CPU for programming (etc) that is needed for work.

Another simple option would be to have both the normal battery for operation and then switch between the two external batteries in sequence. AND, keep in mind that if you have the computer clock speed set for max performance that is also maximum power consumption. It is all a tradeoff, which is important to understand. And it may be that you can't work that many hours away from mains power, no matter what you want.

What do you mean by "normal battery for operation then switch between two external batteries in sequence"?
Otherwise, yes I have the CPU limited to 50% max when on battery. What I noticed really destroys my run time is screen brightness. Just setting that to half gives me ~2 hours more doing the same work.

can you tell us the actual model number of the laptop ?

Here is the model of the battery pack and laptop:
Laptop: HP Pavilion 16-a0032dx
The battery pack: Krisonia NJF-5X

 

By "normal" battery pack I mean the one that gets installed onto the computer. The other batteries are the 19 volt ones that get connected to the external charger port.

 

By "normal" battery pack I mean the one that gets installed onto the computer. The other batteries are the 19 volt ones that get connected to the external charger port.

Ahh. Yes I am just unsure of how to switch between the external battery packs. Like, if I can parallel the two and plug in to the charger port, then yes that is my plan. I will find out once the other battery pack gets here.

 

With being able to select one or the other, having both of them charged the same amount will not matter. Connecting batteries in solid parallel is bit more demanding. In addition, by switching between packs, you know when one pack has run down and you get a better warning about how much you have left.

 

With being able to select one or the other, having both of them charged the same amount will not matter. Connecting batteries in solid parallel is bit more demanding. In addition, by switching between packs, you know when one pack has run down and you get a better warning about how much you have left.

Yes. But I have no way of connecting the battery packs to the laptop. Currently, the battery pack, when plugged in, will charge for ~30secs then will stop charging. The charging indicator on the battery pack shuts off shortly after as well. It could be the central pin not being connected, but the battery pack claims it supports HP chargers. This is why I was more aligned with the battery pack not having enough amps vs not having the central pin.

If it is the central pin (communication pin) then I will purchase a cheap charger from eBay that claims to have that pin working, and tear it apart to see if I can get it working with the battery packs. Even if I have to wire directly the battery pack to the DC output of the charger pack. I will get this working lol.

 

Does the computer still operate when the sytem stops charging after 30 seconds? And do you get any message at that time?

 

Does the computer still operate when the sytem stops charging after 30 seconds? And do you get any message at that time?

Yes the computer still works. I just get a low power notification once the charging stops, which makes sense. It basically behaves as if it was simply unplugged.

Also, further research shows that the ID pin (the center one) is not needed for powering the laptop. If the central pin is not connected, it simply means the on board diagnostics have not detected the charger as being genuine, and therefore will not charge the battery, but still provide power to the laptop. Then, windows will show "plugged in, not charging". Also this was for a Dell laptop.

What is interesting though, if I shut off my laptop (either standby, hibernate, or shut down) the power pack will not even show that it is charging. This is what makes me think it is the amps the laptop requires are way too high for the power pack to supply (which again, further reading on things shows this to be true. Gaming laptops don't even support USB-C charging due to the high current they require to simply operate.)

 

If you are able to measure the current used by your computer that could be very useful. And don't forget that there are options for slowing it down to use much less power. That can be very handy.
And as for multiple computers, back at one employer we had one client who did not want any of their files or code to enter a competitors property. Thus one computer for each of those clients. So I have two HP "probook6450b" computers, identified as #1 and #2. It was worth it.

 

is this the pack your looking at paralleling with

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Emaks-TF03...rds=hp+pavilion+battery&qid=1617460927&sr=8-8

 

is this the pack your looking at paralleling with

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Emaks-TF03...rds=hp+pavilion+battery&qid=1617460927&sr=8-8

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Krisdonia-...ld=1&keywords=Krisdonia&qid=1617467866&sr=8-3

That is the battery pack I am going to parallel with. Specifically, the DC out at 20V option.

 

I think you’d have more luck with a USB to HP power adapter. I’m not 100% sure this is the product but I’m providing the link to give you options when searching for a solution.

Requires no modification to your battery nor laptop. Plug and play solution.

 

I think you’d have more luck with a USB to HP power adapter. I’m not 100% sure this is the product but I’m providing the link to give you options when searching for a solution.

Requires no modification to your battery nor laptop. Plug and play solution.

Will this work even though my USB-C port does not have the lightning bolt next to it? From my understanding it won't receive power through it without that.

 

Consider the current listed as being required, and calculate the power delivered. Now consider a USB power connector that is 0.500 amps rated. No way can a USB connection deal with the current required. 3 amps @19 volts =57 watts=5 volts @11+ amps..
In addition, computer USB ports are not power inputs, ever!!

 

Will this work even though my USB-C port does not have the lightning bolt next to it? From my understanding it won't receive power through it without that.

Yes, as this adapter isn’t supplying power to the laptop through USB. It adapts a USB Power Brick to the adapter power in jack on the laptop.

 

Consider the current listed as being required, and calculate the power delivered. Now consider a USB power connector that is 0.500 amps rated. No way can a USB connection deal with the current required. 3 amps @19 volts =57 watts=5 volts @11+ amps..
In addition, computer USB ports are not power inputs, ever!!

Yes, standard USB - A ports are never power inputs. However, most macs use USB-C to charge, and some other computers. If they support power in, they have a little lightning bolt symbol next to them. It is just my HP USB-C does not charge due to the amount of current the laptop requires to charge. Which I am seeing no gaming laptops can charge from USB-C despite having the lightning bolt symbol simply due to how much power is required for gaming laptops.

Yes, as this adapter isn’t supplying power to the laptop through USB. It adapts a USB Power Brick to the adapter power in jack on the laptop.

Ahhhh. I see. That is really awesome! I just think I will be in the same boat that I am currently in with that. USB-C max current output is 100W, my specific Power Brick outputs USB-C at 65W. My power in jack on my laptop requires 200W. So I am assuming it would stop charging due to over power draw. Unless that adapter prevents that somehow?

 

Yes, standard USB - A ports are never power inputs. However, most macs use USB-C to charge, and some other computers. If they support power in, they have a little lightning bolt symbol next to them. It is just my HP USB-C does not charge due to the amount of current the laptop requires to charge. Which I am seeing no gaming laptops can charge from USB-C despite having the lightning bolt symbol simply due to how much power is required for gaming laptops.

Ahhhh. I see. That is really awesome! I just think I will be in the same boat that I am currently in with that. USB-C max current output is 100W, my specific Power Brick outputs USB-C at 65W. My power in jack on my laptop requires 200W. So I am assuming it would stop charging due to over power draw. Unless that adapter prevents that somehow?

Nope, you are in the same boat

 

Nope, you are in the same boat

Thanks! Cannot wait till my other power brick comes. So I can finally test this lol. In the mean time (out of town right now) once I get home, I am going to try to isolate the center pin from making contact. Might just open it up and desolder it if its easy enough to do.

 

UPDATE:

So I was able to connect the manufacturer's charger to my laptop WITHOUT the center pin making contact... AND

IT WORKS!

This center pin is REQUIRED for charging. When the center pin is not connected, the laptop switches to a "Plugged In" state, but the battery DOES NOT charge. Once the center pin makes contact, it starts charging. This makes me more optimistic that the parallel power packs will allow me to achieve what I want - my internal laptop battery will just be dead until I find an AC power plug to charge it. But I should be able to power the laptop from the external power packs! Will give another update once the second one gets here.