From what I understand, I should either get a 3.6mm width of solid unperforated track or use a 24AWG copper wire . Am i right?Currently, the board I have available with me right now is thisStandard strip board is OK to 1A. 6A on a standard perf board needs 3.6mm width of solid, unperforated, track, or you solder a piece of 24AWG (preferably thicker) solid tinned copper wire onto the standard strip.
Edit: A 10cm length will dissipate 0.5W @ 6A and will rise 10degC above ambient.
I see . so for higher current amps, the type of copper wire is more prioritized instead of the board itself?I had 45 amps on a phenolic pad per hole board, similar to MaxHeadroom's suggestion, I used large gauge solid copper wire for the high current connections. The was used daily for years until the need for it went away.
i gotten a 20AWG wire for the supply in. From what was told to me by the salesperson, the wire can have higher capacity of current. So if I use this wire on a stripboard, its no different then?the only path for the high current was through the copper wire. This was pad-per-hole board, not stripboard.
Thanks! i guess i used a single 20AWG and soldered it along a track. Also I forget to mentioned that the 6A will only be coming from the supply, but not by the load. The highest current a load will draw is about 1.2A individually. Having 2 of that load ,I will need 2.4A that is if i were to run it simultaneously20AWG wire is good for up to 10A. For the perfboard you showed you'd need to put at least 5 tracks in parallel for 6A because of the holes. If you filled the track with a good mound of solder you might get it down to 2 or 3, but a single piece of 20AWG along one track is much easier and neater. If its just copper rather than tinned-copper use a good flux or burnish it with a light emery cloth before soldering.
The cheapest way is to use reclaimed 1.5mm T&E with the insulation stripped off. Hunt in builders skips; a few metres goes a long way!
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