Several years ago , a brownout/spike shorted windings in the power transformer of my Marantz 4400 receiver. Next day I complained to the power company and they bought the transformer and delivered to me. All good again. One in a million cases. This is less believable ! They had a guy in charge of solving/compensating for those (their fault) events !

If the Voltage or Brown out in most cases, the Power Company is responsible for the Damaged equipment. I’ve seen cases like these back in the day when I worked on appliances.
I still dream working on appliances, makes me mad I can’t collect a paycheck for it lol

kv

 

That kind of response sounds like several d.e.c.a.d.e.s ago.
ak

2014.

Done with the subwoofer recentering, used hot glue instead and is not rasping. Am happy. Fed 12Hz to it while pushing/pulling the 'spider' outer edge for zero rasping; deposited a bit of glue there and followed the same the rest of the circumference. Avoided to remove the cone or outer rim, using no parts.

 

 

Whole damn world thinks it's "we".

 

Whole damn world thinks it's "we".

Not true!! Many folks, including me, are totally aware that we and our opinions and beliefs are not shared by "everybody".
The fact is that when "one size fits all", it fits none very well.
Independent thinking allows creativity, as well as often being correct, while the crowd is misled.

 

Repaired Cuisinart coffee grinder. The motor was slow, sluggish and erratic.
Replaced 100 μF / 16 V capacitor with 100 μF / 25 V in the low voltage supply.
The low voltage supply showed excessive 60 Hz ripple on the oscilloscope.
There was no visible sign that the capacitor was bad. It measured 16 μF out of circuit.

 

Re-bedded my 35-yr old water softener with fresh ion exchange resin. I didn't have hard data that the old resin was shot but no reference I found suggested it could possibly last that long. I was surprised that the old resin, though probably useless chemically, retained its physical integrity. It looked and felt amazingly similar to the new resin.

I've invested a lot of DIY time on this softener over the years. I've replaced the clock drive, rewired the membrane switches to use pushbuttons, rebuilt the internal valve seals, and more. I joke with family that it's like the old boat meme: If you replace a board or two on your old wooden boat every year, eventually there are no original boards left. Is it still the same boat?

Anyway, homeowners know that anytime you open up old plumbing you're going to trigger problems and that certainly was the situation here. I had to replace the two flexible feed lines, the head of the filtration housing just upstream of the softener, and finally I had to use teflon tape to hack the o-ring seal that just wouldn't stop leaking without a little tape added to tighten up the clearance. I had ordered the next-fatter o-ring and waited days for it to arrive, only to discover within minutes that it was far too fat to fit. Shocked and proud that my teflon tape hack worked.

 

Certainly the TEFLON tape is very useful stuff, no question about that,
What I have found, when I got into "a bit of a jam", is that for applications not involving heat, that when neither teflon tape nor pipe sealer are available, strips cut from polyethylene bags can be an adequate alternate seal material . In addition, much cheaper than the TFE material was at the time. NOT USDA approved, bit for compressed air or cold water, they work well..

 

Replaced the power cord terminated with a ground-fault-interrupter plug with a plain cord on my air conditioner. Works as new.

 

Re-routed 20 metres of wrong pipe path of my house gutter downspout draining to the rain cistern by providing constant slope so rain will not puddle / freeze in it.

 

Restored the shed/canopy roof supporting some solar panels that collapsed under 5cm of ice from last weeks storm. A knot in the wood gave way breaking the beam. Dangerous working under. Still generates energy.

 

Repaired my 3000psi air compressor by replacing its blown safety burst disc venting plug. It is back into operation.

 

I repaired a time switch that had developed a problem of switching back on immediately after switching off.
I did this by filing a burr that had developed on the trip-off "dog" that attaches to the rotating disk.
I used a bright light and a magnifier to spot the problem.

 

I replace the combustion draft blower old my 20 year old furnace. The blower was getting noticeably louder, probably the lube in the bearings had dried up. The furnace had on rare occasions shut off because of a condensate blockage or no pressure getting to the negative pressure switch. I cleaned the condensate drain system while I had it apart. Turned it back on and it ran much quieter for a minute then shut down and gave a blocked condensate drain error. I restarted it with the negative pressure switch disconnected and measured the resistance of the switch terminals and the reading was unsteady and over ten Ohms.
I ran back to the heating supply store and bought a new switch. The new switch has a resistance of three ohms when closed. I'm glad I resolved it before it quit in the middle of the coldest night of winter.

 

I'm glad I resolved it before it quit in the middle of the coldest night of winter.

It would have been safe to short the switch during the "coldest night", I believe. No?

 

No the smart valve needs to see the switch open then close before it will switch on the gas.

 

No the smart valve needs to see the switch open then close before it will switch on the gas.

Sorry, I meant disconnect.

Or does the furnace produce condensate? (I live in Florida: the condensate drain is only for A/C).

 

Or does the furnace produce condensate? (I live in Florida: the condensate drain is only for A/C).

You bet. Water is a normal part of gas combustion and in modern efficient furnaces, the cooling of the exhaust before it leaves the house means there is condensation that must be dealt with.

 

You bet. Water is a normal part of gas combustion and in modern efficient furnaces, the cooling of the exhaust before it leaves the house means there is condensation that must be dealt with.

I offer a concern about that condensate drainage liquid. It is not "just water!!" At least , on my Dad's furnace, that condensate attacked the rubber portions of the condensate drain system, resulting in a major leak running across the floor. I had to replace that entire drain hose assembly because it was cracked thru in all of the area where the combustion condensate contacted it. Fortunately I was able to hot form some plastic water pipe to the shape and diameter of the damaged rubber-type material. THAT material has shown no bad effects after three years.

 

Way back I had a brilliant idea - feed the condensate water into the humidifier. Very little research effort convinced me that that fluid is highly corrosive. Plain white PVC works very well for drain plumbing.

ak