Hi everyone,

I need some help figuring out the usb-c connection, i changed the (mobile 2in1) usb cable for the Revopoint pop2 3dscanner so that it also delivers power to the phone/tablet.
(It's a split cable, usb-a from a power source to a micro-b SS plugged into the scanner, and a split from the microb to usb-c to plug in to a phone or tablet, usb-a only transmits power to the micro-b/scanner, micro-b to usb-c is only data (+ground))

The change I made is that i replaced the usb-c connector keeping the data lines, and adding a second usb-a for power wired the the usb-c connector.

I wired the power and data wires to the (I think) correct pins, and tablet is receiving power, the scanner is powered too, but no data is transmitted.
I suspect that I have to put in a resistor or capacitor on the breakout board, but I can't be sure.

I added some photos to make it all a bit more clear.

 

Hi,
The soldering is an absolute disaster.
Remake the connections.
Good luck............

 

Do you have a link to the breakout board?

https://pinoutguide.com/CellularPhones-A-N/USB-C_Type-C_to_USB_cable_pinout.shtml describes how to convert USB C to USB A which if I am thinking right is what you are trying to do.

I'll second the solder job is a bit of a disaster, but in all reality it should still work. I stick cut off ends of USB cables into a breadboard to work with microcontrollers with no issues... more or less just as crappy of a connection, but on a different level.

 

Here's the link to the breakout board i'm using: https://www.otronic.nl/nl/usb-c-male-breakout-board.html
Note that in the picture it shows a capacitor on C1, and a resistor of unknown value on R1 but in reality only R2 is populated(tried to measure the resistance, but not getting a value). the pcb is definitly not the exact same one as in the pictures.

Looking at the link you sent, i don't really see a difference in what i'm doing except maybe the resistor.

I agree on the solder job, using the cheapest soldering iron for parts like this isn't helping, but as far as i can tell the connection should be good enough.

 

Welcome to AAC.

Looking at the link you sent, i don't really see a difference in what i'm doing except maybe the resistor.

This is not a trivial difference. The CC (Configuration Channel) is what tells the Type-C hardware which pins do what. If you don’t have the proper CC pull up(s) in place, it simply won’t use D+/D-.

Type-C is very complicated because it does many things. Did you know you can set ”alternatives” such as an audio interface here analog signals are expected, or an HDMI port—just to name a couple. Not all of these things are available in all cases but if you don’t have the CC pins properly terminated what it does is—whatever it “wants”.

You might want to bang your head against the Type-C Wikipedia page a bit to get an idea about what is going on.

 

Here's the link to the breakout board i'm using: https://www.otronic.nl/nl/usb-c-male-breakout-board.html

Unfortunately I can't understand a word of that page, but I'm fairly confident there was no instructions or downloads to look at. I tried to find another board thinking this may be something they are reselling, but could not find anything that looked the same. As far as what resistors and what not should be on the board I have no idea. It might be worth a try to contact the seller and see if they have any information or links to provide.

I'll admit when it comes to type C I don't know much about it. Ya'akov made some good points.

 

Another thought that crossed my mind... another member on here reported that the cords they used were always white for D+ and green for D-. There was a bit of confusion after purchasing a different cord and the colors were switched to green for D+ and white for D-.

While ideally everyone would use the same colors the only thing that really matters is the pins match on both ends of the cords.

 

Thanks for the replies! i was able to get a hold of the correct resistor and replaced the one that was on the breakout board, also checked if it was connected properly to the correct pin. Sadly this didn't make a difference..
Also tried swapping green and white even though i was sure i had that correct, but also no difference.

I do keep getting the "Please check the connection of the charger" notification in android, it does charge though.

 

This should be helpful:
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/te...pe-c-which-pins-power-delivery-data-transfer/

Also you said no data. USB Is high frequency so you have to be careful about just adding wires on. I didn't study your wire harness, but it looks like you've got wires all over the place. Loose dangly wires can be a problem.

 

I do keep getting the "Please check the connection of the charger" notification in android, it does charge though.

What exactly does this message say? Thevl exact words matter here.