That is way too low so either the U1 circuit is faulty or its outputs are overloaded.The voltage across C9 measures 3.8vdc.
OK, I believe I have correctly identified and removed those components. C1 tests at 1.24 nF and R1 (1003) and R2 (1001) are very close to their rated values. D2 tests good on a diode test but I am wondering about DZ2. It tests good on a diode test but when I tested for breakdown voltage I ended up with 4 nine-volt batteries in series and it was still passing the full voltage. Does that seem reasonable in this application? If I need to replace it I have no access to specs and I don't think it is marked at all. U1 is marked 393 K914.That is way too low so either the U1 circuit is faulty or its outputs are overloaded.
Check the feedback components, R1, R2, C1, D2, and DZ2.
C1 is at the top left corner in the photo and none of the smd caps have any markings at all. C9 is next to last in the third row of components. All of the smd caps appear identical in size and thickness.What is the marking on C1?
The example circuits in the datasheet all use 47uF in this position so 1.24nF is very, very low.
You could get a guide to the zener voltage as it must be less than the voltage rating of C9.
The components I am interested in are on PCB1. The picture in post #23 is PCBC1 is at the top left corner in the photo and none of the smd caps have any markings at all. C9 is next to last in the third row of components. All of the smd caps appear identical in size and thickness.
The internal circuitry of the chip can also supply voltage to the 'C' pin and C9 cannot serve as the reservoir capacitor for that function as it would be isolated by D2 which would be reverse biased under those conditions.The 47 µF capacitor in the datasheet is for the main filter on the "C" pin. That pin serves both as the power supply pin for the IC and the feedback pin for regulation. As the circuit is implemented, C9 is the main filter capacitor. Without knowing the values of R2 and C1 it is hard to say what they are supposed to be [edit - had deleted a sentence & made a mess] for. C1 would add an extra pole in conjunction with R1. R2 may be intended to add a zero to compensate for the extra pole.
Yes, sorry for the confusion. It was after seeing the PCB2 circuit that it seemed to me that the problem was on PCB1.Sorry if I was confused.

I will test DZ1 and if it's good that should shed some light. I tested DZ2 both directions, getting the high voltage reading one way and a small fraction of a volt the other. Maybe it shouldn't have any reading at all the wrong direction?DZ2 must be lower voltage than DZ1 (if that helps?).
Apologies for this question, but you did have it the right way round when testing?
Thanks for bearing with me. I have removed and tested DZ1 and double checked that I was testing them correctly. Both seem fine on a regular diode test, reading well under a volt and OL when reversed. Using batteries I had a 46v supply and testing DZ1 it read 8.80v but testing DZ2 again it would basically not drop at all, maybe only 0.2v lower. According to the website where I found the test method, the zener diode is open. Before I order up (with yet another shipping charge!) should I just go ahead and replace U1 (LM393) anyway? Likely voltage for DZ2? Any other thoughts at this stage?DZ2 must be lower voltage than DZ1 (if that helps?).
Apologies for this question, but you did have it the right way round when testing?
I am only wondering if U1 could have been damaged by the fact that DZ2 apparently failed to limit voltage to it. I don't really have any understanding of the interactions here.It certainly sounds like DZ2 is faulty. Do you have any evidence that U1 is faulty?
That circuit board is not receiving the correct power from PCB1 at the moment. I would be concentrating on that problem first. It is possible that that problem is caused by some overloading on the PCB1 outputs but that kind of fault can be difficult to track down.