Trying to understand the element code

Thread Starter

Fotaje

Joined Dec 19, 2020
5
Hello all,
i'm quite new, recently found myself pretty interested in electronics/hardware components.
i have one old machine in my storate and i trie to start with it.
Seems like one of the capacitors was blown and i want to try to replace it and make the whole machine work again :)

Problem/question is that i cannot understand how to read properly and from where to find suitable component.
Can someone advise/teach me how to read properly and how to chose properly a replacement.

The broken component is this light blue capacitor (as far as i read it is Monoblock capacitor if i judge by the look of it)

Help me to start understand the things in the right way.
I've been digging and trying to find info on Google, but i got lost.
 

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Ian0

Joined Aug 7, 2020
2,178
It's 1uF, presumably a plastic film type. Not much of a clue about the voltage rating."M" means 20% tolerance.
What voltage does the circuit operate at?
If the big electrolytic in the background is a power supply smoothing capacitor, it's voltage rating would be a good starting point.
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
11,088
After the first hundred hours or so, the failure rate for metalized film capacitors is on the order of one failure per million working hours. Did that capacitor have a mechanical failure, like a lead breaking? If not, why do you suspect that is the cause of the problem?
 

bertus

Joined Apr 5, 2008
21,362
Hello,

The first picture shows the section in the green circle:
Fotaje Pic223 green.jpg
The red circle shows an other component.

Bertus
 

Thread Starter

Fotaje

Joined Dec 19, 2020
5
Hello,

in attachment you can find 3 detailed photos. I thought (looks to me) like the burned component is 100% identical with the healthy one, that is why i thought that if i know what the healthy is, i can replace the broken one
 

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MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
23,507
Examine the board and try to identify the traces to which the bad capacitor is connected. If the capacitor is across power and ground tracks then the capacitor is intended to be a power supply decoupling capacitor. Remove the bad capacitor and see if the board will still work without the capacitor. If it doesn’t then I would guess that you have another problem on the board.
 

bertus

Joined Apr 5, 2008
21,362
Hello,
I thought (looks to me) like the burned component is 100% identical with the healthy one, that is why i thought that if i know what the healthy is, i can replace the broken one
The physical size does not mean they are equal.
There are parts of the same size, but with different values.

Bertus
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
11,088
There maybe be another problem:
1608548445493.png

That smooth cylindrical "shell" could be an artifact, but while examining the traces, be sure to check the holes. It could be that when removing the cap, you pulled a little too hard before the solder was completely melted and pulled the hole plating out with the wire.

I there is a trace only on one side, check to be sure the pad to which the plated hole is attached is still intact. If there are traces on both sides of that hole, it could be a bigger problem to fix.
 
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