how would i go about sending it and finding shipping costs then? cause it probably like $50, right?

 

Yes..
There is one member here that lives in USA. He sends me stuff via USPS. Pretty reliable...So far all the goods I got are intact.
Shipping is around that much for that weight., may be less.
I think you can check online.

You should know better, it's ur country

 

The USPS website has all info for sending to Male'

Here is all Maldive shipping info:
http://pe.usps.com/text/Imm/mo_006.htm#ep1174754

For other:
http://www.usps.com
Click> Calculate Postage
Click> "GO" under Calculate International Postage

Select Maldives from dropdown box
Select box size
Click> Continue

and you will get this:

Do not expect them times to be anywhere close to expected.

Using 3 day, It got there in 5

Using the 6 to 10 day, it got there in 15

I sent 4 packages recently Maldives, Florida, Georgia, and California.

Im not sure about the Florida package, but the others have not arrived yet. NOWHERE close to on time.

I sent myself a programmer/dev board to Georgia to get work done while on vacation. I sent it the friday BEFORE thanksgiving. It has yet to arrive.. And Im back home already!

I also sent a capacitor discharge welder to California. It was REFUSED TO SEND. I didnt even know we had Postal Police! I guess the four 7inchx2inch capacitors, wiring, and components looked a little odd to the average PO xray technician !!!hahah!! I didn't even think of how it may look to the uninformed.

With the latest terror bullcrap in Baltimore in the last weeks, they are spending a lot of time with packages leaving Baltimore.. ESPECIALLY to muslm countries.

Rifaa's last package was sent 3 day, and has yet to arrive. At least as of friday.

 

wish i could cram it in small box+ 5 3/8" but not going to cut it barely. that would be 50% cheaper than medium. the board is barely over 6". I will go to the post office sometime next week after my finals and ask some questions. finals on monday and tuesday.

do i need antistatic stuff??? or how would i package it?

the front panel switch PCB? reference to picture if you can so i know what your talking about

 

The problem with USPS that I encountered is pilferage. That is, theft. A couple of years ago, I got a set of collets for a Smart & Brown lathe. They are Whitworth thread and quite rare. They were stolen at the NY port of entry. USPS provides no meaningful tracking. If your shipment is not stolen, it works fine. But if it is shiny or anything anything else one of our customs agents may think he can sell, forget it. I would go with a real shipper (UPS or FedEx) for anything of value. Their shipments clear customs by the container, and our agents (aka thieves) never touch the individual items.

John

 

Agreed.

I dont know If I was flagged due to sending a Maldives package and California package at one time or what the deal is. But they did not REFUSE to ship the Maldives package..only the California one.

Im sure it went into a "open-and-search" investigation room.

I am more worried about the Maldives side of things. After some of rifaa's horror stories.

Being around christmas/thanksgiving, the post is SLAMMED with parcels and it slows them down normally. Throw in security, customs, etc.. and that slows even more.

My first shipment was just address and go.

The second, was held and I was required to fill out a customs claim form. (not with the first)

The last package, I just did it to speed things along.

This kind of sucks, because anyone in the post office can read what is in the package. It is stuck on the front of the parcel.

So if they "decide" they want it for their kids, whats stopping them? I think they would rather extort rifaa for "extra" duties.

I would much rather use fedEx, UPS, dhl... Buy they are so expensive.

At least that way you get full tracking.

 

The only way I've found that guarantees a package doesn't get modified or stolen is UPS Next Day Air Early A.M. I also put the tamper proof tape on the boxes, though that means little, it makes somebody think twice before opening it for a peek. Shipping "from" a well known business also helps.

 

I prefer UPS.....It's what is used here most.

If you use Fedex or DHL, I am sure I will have a hard time at the airport, With the buzy schedule these days I get no time to step out of Male'.
The thing is going to Airport to clear custom actually wastes 2 days at most doing nothing.

I suggest that you go for UPS

 

do i need antistatic stuff??? or how would i package it?

the front panel switch PCB? reference to picture if you can so i know what your talking about

 

Wrap it in news paper and crumple some to fill the box.

That will pad it, and not cause static.

 

I do not have a complete photo of ur TV.

I want two PCB's
1 is the one we were fixing
2 is the switch PCB, the channel. volume and power buttons are located on it.

then I want the cables

1 the Main board to LCD cable
2 the Main board to switch pcb cable

Remember to pay for the package tracking service

 

ok will check into it tomorrow hopefully

 

In post 358
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=35448&page=36

You said:

The IC is working, we have 5V now, this is bad for a fact that there is another problem, but now we proved standby transistor is faulty, but since we bypassed it, we'll leave that for later

We have to start on the 3.3V.

Now when start tv it just shows a white/grayish screen. didn't do anything to it. so i'm lost. and tv turns on without me pushing power button (probably cause bypasses standby transistor).

 

i don't really want to pay 100+ dollars on shipping for there and back. plus i have read a lot more about troubleshooting electronic components. got esr meter. fixed my big screen tv with it.


said it is probably smd chip under the heat sink. for hot gun can use blow dryer? or explain the process with hot gun. maybe i can borrow one from someone.

when i get home. i will post the output pin voltages of the power supply. think bl_on is too low
need to check to see if faulty LVDS cable too cause if i move it a little while tv screen dims and comes back.
read that white/grayish screen with no menus is main board or t-con board.

also. the speaker hums in cycles every other second. when i unplug the cable for audio. the main board makes the same hum. so i'm thinking when i desoldered a capacitor. wasn't resoldered correctly? really need a new soldering iron.

FIRST PIC IS MEASUREMENTS
SECOND IS THE POWER SUPPLY BOARD
THIRD IS MAIN BOARD

 

turned out to be the cable from main board to t con board was supposed to be in the opposite direction. or reflowed video chip under heat sink and chip on tcon board with heat gun. either that or two capacitors that i replaced. if it was cable i feel dumb

IT WAS CABLE. I plugged it in wrong way today and got white screen. Then turned it other way. tv worked

however, now i can only turn the tv on once and power off. it won't come back on. also the sound is really really low on left speaker and no sound on right speaker. Plugging desktop speakers into the headphone jack, the left speaker works fully and the right speaker is off as well.

in previous post i remembered you told me to cut a trace on the main board. not sure if that is why i can only power on and off once???

 

Hi...
It seems you have made progress on ur own, not bad...

Gimme some time to look it up, am quite buzy at the moment.

 

ok. here are some possibilities to help you out. Audio connector is the white plastic part with four pins under the two caps

using continuity i checked from ground to the positive of the capacitor in first picture (it is circled)
it beeps. therefore i think i grounded the positive terminal and the capacitor next to it doesn't beep probing the negative or positive.

the soldering iron i have sucks and i have a desoldering pump, wick, tip cleaner.
first i use tip cleaner to clean the tip of gun. then tin the tip. shake it to get rid of excess solder. use sponge. apply solder and shake again. don't know if that necessary. then apply solder to joint. vacuum the solder off. apply heat and remove the component
i apply new solder to joint first since i don't have flux. and still screws up the board. don't apply pressure. just heat, and pull component out gently and the track still lifts.

 

First I would get a nice iron, they are inexpensive. I like weller or pace, if you doing through hole its the easiest. Ebay has some used ones, pace has great support. Weller parts are easy to get locally most of the time.

Now we can talk about a solder sucker. Again I use pace, it has the attachments for smd and through hole, and solder tweezers, great for smd caps and resistors. Now I will tell you what I used when I first started.

I found a old weller with a bad heating element and plug. Repaired that and it worked great until Katrina took all my stuff, it was old but I still used it all the time. Now my solder sucker, since you are spending a lot of time doing what your doing this is also time consuming on ICs, but the rest comes out easily. I used the solder sucker from Radio Shack, when I would go there the first place I would stop is at the rack with replacement tips for the sucker and I bought them all. Its much better then spring loaded unheated solder sucker. Also at that time I would cut out the IC if it was bad and pull the pins and let the Radio Shack unit clean after the pins were out.

To increase the life of your tip, always put solder on it when your done. I just make a ball of solder on the tip and let it cool.

Meant to also mention hot air, I have the Hakko unit with the pre heater and vise with many different attachments. This unit isn't out of the range of most people, the tips are what cost. I wouldn't purchase this unit unless your doing a lot of surface mount stuff. There are many manufactures, I only know this one, but it works very well.

You can also find good deals on Pace equipment, and it has gotten a lot cheaper then when they first came out. Look into a function generator, that will be one of the units you want to help troubleshoot electronics.

 

nice. thanks for the tips. i am probably going to end up getting a weller from Sears. variable wattage from 10 - 60 or something like that. i don't remember what it was. and it comes with a lot of different tips

solder sucker is weller. maybe i need a new tip.

with the soldering iron i have. i can't get the solder to go up the desoldering wick without it burning the board so don't use it.

maybe these if not the sears one, but is x-tronic even good?

http://www.amazon.com/X-TRONIC-6040...f=sr_1_64?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1307595087&sr=1-64

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Solderi...sr_1_179?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1307594795&sr=1-179

http://www.all-spec.com/products/FX-888.html?utm_source=amazonshopping&utm_medium=feed

 

The one from Radio Shack is a heated solder sucker, it uses a red squeeze ball. Its around 20.00, tips come 2 to a pack.

The X-Tronic hot air one will be just up your alley, nice price and its decent equipment. I can't say a lot about this because I have only used Hakko, but it works well. I do believe most tips are interchangeable. The one thing this unit lacks is the ability to pull the component when you lift the heater off. On SMD devices it comes in really handy.

I am using the Hakko FR-803 with pre heater.

That IC remover is junk its too flimsy, I got one also, just never use it. Its nice to get that lamp with it also. Good for us old people that are going blind.

Most of the hot air units are very similar, so I would say it would be a good unit. I would go hot air because its so much easier then the iron. I use both still, but for some things the hot air is superior to the iron. Since this unit comes with both, your set.

I have done some reballing with the Hakko unit, but its limited on its ability here.

I like the unit you have shown me except for it not doing component removal when the unit is removed from the board. You can tell the ones that don't but not having a thumb knob to move the extractor in and out.