Treadmill suddenly stopped working and blew fuse

Thread Starter

SIVAICS

Joined Apr 17, 2022
5
HI Guys, I need your help. Recently i bought a treadmill, Its running sometime. Suddenly it stopped. And Shows the error code E6. After i open the Circuit board the fuse has gone. After i replace the fuse . Once i start the Treadmill from Remote , immediately the fuse gone. I try to replace the fuse more then 5 times , every time the fuse is gone. Please help .
1. Is it what i replacing the wring capacity ? How do find the right fuse.
2. Is it any other problem in the circuit?.
3. I tested the MOSFET ? it seems working fine( as per this video
).

Here i uploaded as much as possible all he photos .
Help

Siva
 

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MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
25,213
Have you tried substituting the motor for a lamp? Or even trying without anyload at all?
This may help trace and indicate the source of the problem.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
25,213
I don't have any info on that board but I would check all the power components Bridge rectifier, Mosfet/BJT, SCR etc. Surge protector.
Process of elimination.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
25,213
Usually remove them and check with a meter, if suspect, then install replacement.
If blowing the fuse at power on then usually a short across the supply somewhere.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
11,897
The very first question is "What size (amp rating) fuse is specified". If the correct sized fuse pops again, do not waste another one until you have fixed the problem.
A treadmill is a fairly high current load that also contains quite a bit of logic circuits that are rather low powered. Thus there are two power supplies and a motor control system.
An instant fuse failure tends to point towards a failed-short circuit component in the motor driver section.

To do any kind of systemic diagnostics you will need at least a decent multimeter that can read both voltage, DC and AC, as well as measure resistance reasonably accurately. You will also be able to recognize electronic devices and know how to measure voltage and resistance with your meter
. And it will be rather helpful to get a circuit schematic diagram for the device.
 

Thread Starter

SIVAICS

Joined Apr 17, 2022
5
Thanks I tested rectifier, this is the result came from meter + point to -Point shows .433, and + & next S is .433, Next S to -ve is 0. I uploaded the pic , Is it Rectifier is the issue?. Please advise ..
 

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MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
11,897
You are better off removing the device to test it out of circuit if it is suspect.
To elaborate on what Max said, which is correct, testing a bridge rectifier in a non-powered circuit using an ohm meter, or even the diode test function on a good digital multimeter, is not likely to provide meaningful results. The reason is that the external items connected are mostly quite low resistance, while all of the rectifier elements are very low resistance in one direction and very high resistance in the opposite direction. so you will need to disconnect at least two wires from the bridge rectifier. One AC terminal wire and then either the + terminal wire or the -terminal wire. Then use the "diode test"mode to check between adjacent terminals in both directions. The readings should be quite different in opposite directions.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
25,213
The power devices on these boards are soldered in types and heatsink mounted. not discrete wires, so they have to be unsoldered from the boards to test.


1650251100657.png
 

MrSalts

Joined Apr 2, 2020
1,762
Is it new or new to you? That is, did you buy it used?
Is the belt tension correct?
if the belt is too tight, it is too much of a load on the motors and can blow fuses. If the belt is too lose, see next scenario.

Does the bottom of the belt feel sticky?
This could be a sign of the previous owner using the wrong kind of lubricant (it should be silicone). This could also be a sign that the belt overheated because there was no lubrication and the vulcanized rubber decomposed to some degree. It can also be a sign of the belt being too loose and slipping which can overheat the belt to make it decompose slightly and get sticky.

Summary - The fusing may be blowing for a reason. The electronics may be work perfectly.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
11,897
I see that the power supply is a separate circuit board, and so a photo of just that board, leaving all the wires connected, might allow some of us to spot a clue as to the fault. I think that I saw something not right with the wiring in one picture, so a photo showing the terminals way also reveal something not quite right.
Once again the question: Is this a new treadmill, or is it purchased used?? If it is used, it may be that somebody else already tried to repair some problem and did not get it back together correctly. That happens a lot.

AND, did the TS ever find the specification for the current rating of the fuse?? Having the properly sized fuse makes a very big difference.

If the fuse pops with the motor load disconnected that tells me that it is not a motor or belt friction issue.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
25,213
I see that the power supply is a separate circuit board, and so a photo of just that board, leaving
If the fuse pops with the motor load disconnected that tells me that it is not a motor or belt friction issue.
What Pic are you looking at, I see all of the circuit, including the bridge, on one board as is typical,?
That is why the first thing I suggest is disconnect the load/motor if the fuse repeatedly pops.
 
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MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
11,897
I see a bunch of pictures in post #1 and none of them are very good. Then in a later post, showing the diode checks, are some more photos, also not adequate. My intention is to be able to spot components that are not quite rght, not just those blown off of the board by failure.
 
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