I have a problem with the named board, it is a board that activates a DC motor from a range of 0V to 180V. The board consists of a double power supply / transformer, which delivers 10v and 17v continuously, the whole is transformed into a square wave for the operation of the motor at those high voltages. The problem arose after the first dc motor died, my girlfriend despite having told him not to turn on the treadmill anymore she thinking that by staying still for a week she would come to life only went to turn it on again, result?10A fuse break after a large spark. I reset the fuse and going to check the output gives me a voltage of 330V always ... I have the impression that the component that is in metal depicted in the photo is dead. This component is drowned in a resin and protected by a metal sheet (which I have already removed). .. can anybody help me? ? I also accept help to build a suitable controller, because you get paid including the card for a non-screen printed and therefore unrecognizable component.

I have attached the controller pcb pic and schematics.

 

Hi, did you get anywhere with your repair?
I have the same problem with 330v but the mosfet is not giving a feed to the motor.
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...-power-supply-suitability-getting-hot.168289/

 

I have a problem with the named board, it is a board that activates a DC motor from a range of 0V to 180V. The board consists of a double power supply / transformer, which delivers 10v and 17v continuously, the whole is transformed into a square wave for the operation of the motor at those high voltages. The problem arose after the first dc motor died, my girlfriend despite having told him not to turn on the treadmill anymore she thinking that by staying still for a week she would come to life only went to turn it on again, result?10A fuse break after a large spark. I reset the fuse and going to check the output gives me a voltage of 330V always ... I have the impression that the component that is in metal depicted in the photo is dead. This component is drowned in a resin and protected by a metal sheet (which I have already removed). .. can anybody help me? ? I also accept help to build a suitable controller, because you get paid including the card for a non-screen printed and therefore unrecognizable component.

I have attached the controller pcb pic and schematics.

I have also the same problem of output to motor been 330v instead of 180v

 

I have a problem with the named board, it is a board that activates a DC motor from a range of 0V to 180V. The board consists of a double power supply / transformer, which delivers 10v and 17v continuously, the whole is transformed into a square wave for the operation of the motor at those high voltages. The problem arose after the first dc motor died, my girlfriend despite having told him not to turn on the treadmill anymore she thinking that by staying still for a week she would come to life only went to turn it on again, result?10A fuse break after a large spark. I reset the fuse and going to check the output gives me a voltage of 330V always ... I have the impression that the component that is in metal depicted in the photo is dead. This component is drowned in a resin and protected by a metal sheet (which I have already removed). .. can anybody help me? ? I also accept help to build a suitable controller, because you get paid including the card for a non-screen printed and therefore unrecognizable component.

I have attached the controller pcb pic and schematics.

Any update on this??

 

Any update on this??

I have a problem with the named board, it is a board that activates a DC motor from a range of 0V to 180V. The board consists of a double power supply / transformer, which delivers 10v and 17v continuously, the whole is transformed into a square wave for the operation of the motor at those high voltages. The problem arose after the first dc motor died, my girlfriend despite having told him not to turn on the treadmill anymore she thinking that by staying still for a week she would come to life only went to turn it on again, result?10A fuse break after a large spark. I reset the fuse and going https aka ms remoteconnect to check the output gives me a voltage of 330V always ... I have the impression that the component that is in metal depicted in the photo is dead. This component is drowned in a resin and protected by a metal sheet (which I have already removed). .. can anybody help me? ? I also accept help to build a suitable controller, because you get paid including the card for a non-screen printed and therefore unrecognizable component.

I have attached the controller pcb pic and schematics.

Anything on this ?

 

Hi, did you get anywhere with your repair?
I have the same problem with 330v but the mosfet is not giving a feed to the motor.
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...-power-supply-suitability-getting-hot.168289/

If it helps, I built an Arduino controller to replace the mystery metal-clad module. It works quite well but the 0.5 mph speed is not quite attainable without annoying PWM motor whine. With my compromise, I can achieve 0.8 mph. I have calibrated for reasonably accurate speeds up to the 8.8 mph maximum on my treadmill.

 

If it helps, I built an Arduino controller to replace the mystery metal-clad module. It works quite well but the 0.5 mph speed is not quite attainable without annoying PWM motor whine. With my compromise, I can achieve 0.8 mph. I have calibrated for reasonably accurate speeds up to the 8.8 mph maximum on my treadmill.

The Arduino (Nano) runs from the 12 V regulated supply on the motor drive PCB and I use a single PNP signal transistor to interface between the 5 V digital output and the gate of the power MOSFET.

I replaced the original "metal module" with a socket header, mounted the Arduino onto a pin header and just plug it in. OK so far!

 

If it helps, I built an Arduino controller to replace the mystery metal-clad module. It works quite well but the 0.5 mph speed is not quite attainable without annoying PWM motor whine. With my compromise, I can achieve 0.8 mph. I have calibrated for reasonably accurate speeds up to the 8.8 mph maximum on my treadmill.

The Arduino (Nano) runs from the 12 V regulated supply on the motor drive PCB and I use a single PNP signal transistor to interface between the 5 V digital output and the gate of the power MOSFET.

I replaced the original "metal module" with a socket header, mounted the Arduino onto a pin header and just plug it in. OK so far!View attachment 231463

Nicely done, would you be so kind as to list what I would need to do in order to repair mine, by email is fine. Thanks

 

This is just a simple fix, using the analogue voltage from the existing control panel. It is open-loop (no speed feedback or current monitoring yet - I can do this if needed but my treadmill already serves its purpose )

I'm cooking up a pdf that will give building instructions... available shortly...

For now, here's the code for an Arduino Nano:

/*
    Interface between standard 8V analogue control voltage
    and N-channel power FET gate drive

               Jolyon Caplin Feb 2021

    Analogue input to control fast PWM output:

    Smooth upward/downward PWM change for gentle treadmill control already provided by main controller.
    Scaled to suit Roger Black ag-11306 treadmill for correct miles/hour output (especially from 3 mph upwards).

    Note: due to 4 µsec minimum delay time, lowest speed possible is 0.8 miles/hour, so the user needs to bump up
    starting speed on treadmill preset programs from 0.5 miles/hour.

    Motor winding tone is audible, unfortunately - if higher PWM frequency is used, lowest motor speed is 2 mph
    or more.

    MOSFET drive is from D3 via a BC557 PNP transistor switching a 12V supply (also used for Vin)
*/

float hiTime;
float loTime;
int current;

void setup() {
  pinMode(3, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {
  loTime = (analogRead(2) / 3.2) - 30; // Read and scale control voltage , every 0.34 secs
  // remove offset (-100) to correct speed
  if (loTime < 0) loTime = 0;
  hiTime = 340 - loTime;         // hiTime is balance of 50µsec period (when MOSFET to be OFF)
  if (hiTime < 0) hiTime = 0;
  current = analogRead(0);      // Obtain value to represent current through MOSFET (read from source resistor)
  if (hiTime < 339) {            // If above low limit, speed control
    for (int i = 0; i < 1000; i++) {
      digitalWrite(3, HIGH);         // generate fast PWM burst of 1000 cycles
      delayMicroseconds(hiTime);
      digitalWrite(3, LOW);
      delayMicroseconds(loTime);
    }
  }
  else {                          // If near low limit, stop motor
    digitalWrite(3, HIGH);
    delay(340);
  }
}

 

Here are the building instructions... the pdf includes Bartlet's pictures, modified to include component values and module pin information. The png just shows the instructions. I hope it's all clear - reasonable hobby electronic knowledge is assumed. Do be careful when testing with everything exposed - there may be high voltage between the ground and the PCB mounting plate. I'm near London... if you'd like me to construct and fit this module replacement, do PM me.

 

Thanks ever so much Joly for the detailed instructions.

 

Hi Jolyon or others following this thread.
Well the wiring/soldering is complete, I did include the orange wire A0 to FET Source just in case its needed later, I guess its ok to have it there even though its not used?
I have fitted my last spare new IRFP460C Mosfet as the old tin mosfet control package was turning the mosfet fully on at start up and killing it.
If I refit the motor control board & Jolyon control circuit to my running machine, can I leave the motor feed wires disconnected and use a voltmeter to check the output DC voltage is being controlled with no load before fitting the motor back in circuit ?

Regards

 

Well time for an update, I connected the control board to the treadmill and checked the Jolyon replacement header on the board for control volts and found it missing the 12v and 0volts then the penny dropped, I had blindly followed Jolyons detailed instructions to the letter, or rather pin number and I had cut off the pins as shown, pin 1-3-5 when on my version of the board 12v was pin 1 and pin 2 was not used along with pin 4. pin 3 was 0v, so once I removed the incorrect header and replaced it using pins 1,3,5 & 9 it worked as designed. I did need to replace the mosfet as this had indeed failed again, maybe the wrong pin header helped it on its way.
So the Jolyon Nano replacement for the canned up original pwm does work but I was now getting a mechanical klonk every 1/3rd of a second caused by the pwm. Feed the motor from another source and no noises, so I talked to Jolyon and he suggests altering the sketch lines thus:
commenting out this line should stop the sketch pausing each .3 second to check the current.

//current = analogRead(0);

also change the number of cycles between reads from 1000 to 10000. This will mean speed updates every 3 secs instead of 3 times per second but this shouldn't be a problem.

for (int i = 0; i < 10000; i++) {

I have yet to retry mine with the above sketch edits but thought it best to report back here in case anyone else follows blindly as I did, remember to check your control board pinouts are the same as Jolyon's if not alter pins used to suit yours.

 

Further update: With the modified sketch the knock has gone but the motor has a high pitched whine which Jolyon says cant be cured due to the Nano not being entirely suitable for the task.
I wonder if someone can get this 555 timer circuit that I found on a forum working on these boards to replace that "can"