What OS you using?

You can copy the image and look at it in a viewer of you choice. Paint has a zoom feature, for example. Phones don't work well with CAD work.

 

What OS you using?

You can copy the image and look at it in a viewer of you choice. Paint has a zoom feature, for example. Phones don't work well with CAD work.

It is funny, I bought all the parts and did a lot of the cutting work, but never finished this project, which definitely applies.

It is a test display for a PIC or similar. This is similar enough.

 

What OS you using?

You can copy the image and look at it in a viewer of you choice. Paint has a zoom feature, for example. Phones don't work well with CAD work.

I got it now. Wow! This is awesome. Which circuit are you using to drive this?

 

For 256 LED chaser you might use 74C154 a 4 input 16 output decoder driven by a binary counter & clock. Only 5 mA output.
Or 4514 high out, 4515 low out @ 6 mA, Vdd of 12V.
Or if they can be found: SN74AC154N @ 24 mA output, Vdd 6V.

 

For Stream, SN74AC164N gives 24 mA output Vdd 6V, expensive ( maybe $ 2.00 ) & hard to find, or SN74HC164N, 6 mA @ Vdd 5.5V, around $ .20. At 5.5V would need drivers " OR" just a lot of SR's, ie total no. of LED's divided by 8, but would have an advantage of distributing SR's along stream path keeping leads short.
If the stream ran for 48 in., LED's spaced 8 mm, would need 19 SR's or 2.52 in. / SR.

 

M/S Paint with a set of templates I've made over the decades to copy and paste. I am old school, I design in my head and then draw it out to build it.

Wendy's Index

Introduction and PaintCAD

Last night I redrew about half the schematic in PCB Express in preparation to making a PCB layout. When I get that part done I'll post it, you can down load the software for free.

 

M/S Paint with a set of templates I've made over the decades to copy and paste. I am old school, I design in my head and then draw it out to build it.

Wendy's Index

Introduction and PaintCAD

Last night I redrew about half the schematic in PCB Express in preparation to making a PCB layout. When I get that part done I'll post it, you can down load the software for free.

Awesome! Thank you so much!

 

How much LED current do we need? If the output is not required to be a logic level then output can go over
specifications. Using a 74HC14 @ 6V driving a white LED it was easy to reach 15 mA making LED quite bright.
Re post # 34, might go to a 3 input NOR, 4025, which could give a RESET SW position.

 

How much LED current do we need? If the output is not required to be a logic level then output can go over
specifications. Using a 74HC14 @ 6V driving a white LED it was easy to reach 15 mA making LED quite bright.
Re post # 34, might go to a 3 input NAND, 4023, which could give a RESET SW position.

Hello All. I have been working on the Chaser circuit based on Bernard's 1st circuit that was provided. Please review the timer section and component values. I will also make Wendy's circuits and the look into the latest info Bernard mentioned regarding 74C154 and 4015. I'm not sure where to start with these in a circuit. I'm still learning the basic electronics. Thanks for all your help everyone!

Steve

 

For 256 LED chaser you might use 74C154 a 4 input 16 output decoder driven by a binary counter & clock. Only 5 mA output.
Or 4514 high out, 4515 low out @ 6 mA, Vdd of 12V.
Or if they can be found: SN74AC154N @ 24 mA output, Vdd 6V.

How would you add this to a circuit? Sorry, never done this before

 

Here are my thoughts for a flowing stream: I used the 4015 shift register, SR, because I had one, but would prefer the 74C164. for the greater output of 8 mA stretchable to maybe 12 mA. The flickering signal source is a candle LED which is connected to the data input of first SR. The signal is PWM with the pattern repeating about every 300 clock pulses. Interesting effects are noted as SR clock is varied. I would eliminate sync pulses from U3, C2 & R3-4 as not needed. I envision 4 SR's with 3 blue LED's in series for 96 LED's or 5 SR's for 120.
If I were building this , the SRs would be distributed along the stream, connected dead bug style with semi wire wrap.
On breadboard, red LEDs were only ones that were available ( 8 )View attachment 99047 & are quite visible with only 1 mA.

 

im gonna make this one too. Thanks Bernard

 

It is funny, I bought all the parts and did a lot of the cutting work, but never finished this project, which definitely applies.

It is a test display for a PIC or similar. This is similar enough.

 

I'm gonna star working on this too Thanks Wendy

 

Added a reset SW to Lock Out. Some IC's use a high for reset, some a low, as in 99 LED chaser
555 needs a low on pin 4 & 4017 needs a high on pin 15 to reset. Your schematic looks good. Ground pin 15 , reset, until it is tied into lock out.
For Stream circuit I've shown what a dead bug layout might look like, LED's are spaced 1 cm apart. IC's are glued to backing with wiring direct to pins; R's held with hot glue with both ends straight up & trimmed.
This is a thirsty circuit as LED's will mostly be on, guessing the duty cycle at about 80 % so for 200 LED's the
drain will be just under 2 A @ 6V. For resistor values, need to know Vf of selected LED color but around 240 for blue?
Found 1/8 " cu foil tape @ TapesMaster, 5/32 is from stained glass store.

 

Added a reset SW to Lock Out. Some IC's use a high for reset, some a low, as in 99 LED chaser
555 needs a low on pin 4 & 4017 needs a high on pin 15 to reset. Your schematic looks good. Ground pin 15 , reset, until it is tied into lock out.
For Stream circuit I've shown what a dead bug layout might look like, LED's are spaced 1 cm apart. IC's are glued to backing with wiring direct to pins; R's held with hot glue with both ends straight up & trimmed.
This is a thirsty circuit as LED's will mostly be on, guessing the duty cycle at about 80 % so for 200 LED's the
drain will be just under 2 A @ 6V. For resistor values, need to know Vf of selected LED color but around 240 for blue?View attachment 99290 View attachment 99291
Found 1/8 " cu foil tape @ TapesMaster, 5/32 is from stained glass store.

So just ground pin 15 of the timer chip is all I need for my schematic? I don't need to add any other devices to my schematic? I thought I would have a bunch of mistakes. Whew!

So I have been thinking on the Map. This is an estimate.

Switch A is the whole region that will be lit with red LED's fading in and out for maybe 15 seconds. Maybe 300 LED's spaced about 1" apart.

Switch B is the lower section of the region that hopefully will chase or flowing like a stream in blue LED's. Maybe 250 LED's spaced about 10mm.

Switch C is the higher section of the region that can have some other flowing effect in green LED's. Also about 250 LED's spaced about 10mm.

I am thinking of a motion activated switch like those that you will find in bathroom faucets and paper towel dispensers. I hope this will shed some light on exactly what I am trying to acomplish. Thanks for all your help guys & gals.

Steve

 

OK, have the PCB layout mostly done, I usually do some polish on it before I start dissolving copper.

Probably final design...



I'll post the PCB files later.

 

I presume that you had a reason to draw 555 as a one shot, maybe for testing. Also resistor at SW should go to pin2, SW from pin 2 to ground.

 

I presume that you had a reason to draw 555 as a one shot, maybe for testing. Also resistor at SW should go to pin2, SW from pin 2 to ground.

What I was hoping that when pushing the button, the leds will chase for 15 sec then go off. Is the One Shot not a good idea? I'm still new to this so not sure which way to go. Please let me know or draw up a timer circuit that you think fits best. Thanks

 

OK, design work done. Now to start fabbing it.