Suggested Re-Wiring/Testing for Ignition Coil/Spark plug of Gas Powered Tool

Thread Starter


Joined May 24, 2021
Took apart this gas-powered tool to service the carburetor but wiring leading to the ignition coil/spark plug came apart. Unfortunately, the product manual doesn't show wiring connections, subcomponent is developed overseas and the company has only offerred to sell me additional parts without instruction on wiring. Any help on the proper way to reconnect the wiring would be much appreciated.

Images show a throttle (1) leading to an ignition coil (E). The Cable (2) has a Red Wire/Connector (B), then Black/White Wire (A). On the other end of the disconnected cable is Black Wire/Connector (C) which gives off Black wire (3) and is connected to the positive (+) terminal (D) on ignition coil (E). Connector (F) on the negative (-) terminal isn’t connected to anything.

2 Challenges:
A) Basically, I have two wires, with 2 possible connections but one of the wire connectors does not seem compatible with either of the remaining components. I'm unsure about the Red Wire/Connector (B) which is copper in color as this connector does not seem to be compatible with either the Black Wire/Connector (C) or Connector/Spade (F). I purchased insulated wire connectors so I could re-establish mating connectors if needed (picture shown below)
B) Typically, I would think to test out both connections by trial and error (and maybe I will) but the machine needs gas to do this & if the connection does not work and you leave the gas in the machine for >24 hours it clogs up the carburetor which is how I got into this mess in the first place.

In summary,
I. what is the proper pairing for
A) 2 wires: Black/White wire (A) & Red Wire/Connector (B) and
B) 2 connections: Black Wire/Connection (C) & Connection/Spade (F)
II. And do I need to replace male/female connectors for any of these connections?
III. Can I test these connections with a multi-meter without powering the machine up with gas?


Image of Ignition Coil and a link to a similar device for sale on Alibaba


Image of full device, the manual (as I mentioned no wiring solution there) and a link to home depot where multiple images are available about device.


The Electric Wire Connections Purchased:



Joined Dec 29, 2008
This is a generic magneto circuit. Most parts would be inside the black part with the spark plug wire coming out. Note the + and - designators on the diagram.
Without adding any gasoline, see if it is possible to obtain a spark on the spark plug.
...Remove the plug and hold the metal prong tip against a convenient metal surface (bare metal, no paint) on the engine block. ... Advise wearing rubber gloves to avoid or reduce shock.. It may be necessary to connect the wires in some manner and to press the trigger switch. Some trial and error will be required.
Last edited:
OK Hindsight 20/20. Use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. Available at hardware store, big box store.

Make sure if it;'s 2-cycle engine, your using the right mix. Only use high octane gas.


Testing, no gas. What your looking for initially is spark and no-spark (important) with kill switch on.

Testing for spark. Take plug out and attach base to base of engine. DO NOT HOLD WITH FINGERS.

Generally you have a kill switch. This used to ground out the points, but points and the capacitor are obsolete.
You have a coil and an ignition module.

Kinda a diagram here:
Guess only:
the two B's are gold. They should fit together. The wires are red.

You have a white w/black trace with no end. It may go to the F terminal (right pic)

Looks like A&B are the kill switch (left pic). An ohmmeter whould help you figure that out.

The + and - might be independent coil connections.

The red and black wires are essentially the trigger from "something".

Your labels are not consistant.

Be carefull, Something nasty happened to me. I replaced the throttle cable and it was the wrong one, so it did not kill the lawn mower. One option is to pull the plug wire and be able to do so safely.


Joined Sep 30, 2009
In most things there is only one wire to the kill switch, because there is a metal connection between the motor and the frame or where ever the kill switch is mounted. In this implement there is no direct connection since the motor has to be free to move on the frame of it. So they ran an extra wire to make that connection to the switch.
My final analysis:

There is no apparent trigger coil.
trigger is either in the coil or part of the coil.

Coil is made out of a material that rusts.
A gap is necessary.

The ground connection to the coil has to float because coil is adjusted and contact point is weak.

Kill switch has two wires.
Kill switch normally does not switch something on.
Kill switch usually grounds something. (usually points).

In this case ground has to be returned to the engine because of the vibration dampning.

If connected wrong, it usually doesn't work.

You need to et the kill switch returned to ground (most likely spot)
You need to ground one of the two fast on terminals.

What;s unknown is is it a positive or negative ground system.

With he spark plug out, but atached firmly to the chassis.
Connect the free wire (probably black) to the nearest fast on terminal.
You will probably get spark.

The kill switch should likely return to a solid ground.

Do not start the engine with a plug and gas until the kill switch is verified to work.

Spark may be hard to see and blue.