The 2003 COM pins (pin 9) are an internal diode connection to each output. Therefore, pins 9 must either be connected to the highest voltage possible at the load (+BATT) or left floating. I recommend floating. U13 pins 4, 5, and 6 also can be left floating. This makes it easier to use one later if you are modifying the pc board for something. In fact, when doing the layout I recommend bringing out each of the U13 pins 4, 5, 6, 11, 12, 13 to an individual via. This makes using a free section very easy and costs nothing.

ak

 

Fixed that too! How's it look now? Any other areas of concern?

 

No news is good news I suppose. Since the back-and-forth was about the sequential function, and I haven't seen any further suggestions on the PWM/Power side of things, I went ahead and ordered some test boards with the below schematic. I will be using a switch inline with the DC jack to (dis)connect power for my tests, and will report back with the desired duty cycle once that's done.

 

The one thing to consider is using a power mosfet instead of a BJT for Q1.

 

Did you finish your project?

@MythicalCoder

MOD:E

 

Not yet. Turns out retroreflectors are extremely expensive on a small scale and very hard to design yourself (at least the corner-cube variety -- save yourself time and go with a taillight repair kit honestly). Though I am swapping cars come spring, so hopefully I can focus on this project at that point in time. Still not sure how the OEM's make them out of glass, but my only method to replicate this I haven't tried yet is a CNC machine (3D printing leaves too many air pockets to be useful to any degree, regardless of type)

I need to focus on learning SMD soldering too, I am nearly flawless with an iron but do not have the equipment to SMD and need to invest. All the high-power LED's are SMD, so THT can only get you so far! I have at least kept track of a bunch of tutorials and tools that help though.

For now, this winter anyhow, I am focusing on getting another project done, while basically hoping someone steals it: LiPo Cutoff with LED status indicator [/u]. Boards arrive next week, should be able to start testing then, but man would it be nice to just grab one for five bucks from someone on eBay and not have to worry about my own design falling flat on its face on me. It's always either cutoff OR audio/visual, never both for some reason...