Reverse polarity for actuator

Thread Starter

BryanChewy

Joined Feb 1, 2020
2
Hello! I am new and not very knowledgeable in electronics (thus why I am here ;) ) so I hope I can give a clear enough description in this post to have someone help me figure out what components I need and how to wire my project. So I appologize for the long post, but wanted to give as much info as I can on my situation.

My project is a snowplow on my ATV that I have added an actuator to angle the plow left/right. I also have a solenoid mounted on the plow which pulls a locking pin when energized, and a spring returns it to the locked position when off. The factory winch raises and lowers the plow. So the way I have it right now is 3 switches to run all of this. I first turn ON the solenoid switch which pulls (and holds) the locking pin and then I use the actuator switch to either angle the blade left or right. When I am close to one of the 5 angled positions the blade can be locked in, I turn the solenoid off, thus dropping the locking pin, and when the pin drops into the slot I stop pressing the actuator switch. The solenoid is a simple ON/OFF switch, the actuator is a ON/OFF/ON momentary DP/DT switch, and the winch is a ON/OFF/ON momentary that came with the ATV so I am not sure of the switch type, but from what I can see there are only 3 wires connected to it (one being 12V+ and the other 2 wires run to the factory winch components which either wind in or out the winch cable depending on which side of the switch is pressed).

What I want to do is clean up my current setup, make it weather resistant as possible, and reduce the number of switches. I am sure there is a complicated way to make this all automated and hit one button when I want to angle the blade, but that is way beyond my understanding and also probably budget. LOL I am trying to do this as cheaply as I can. I found a great deal on a Eaton 4 way switch which I would like to use to control the actuator and the winch. When I talked to tech support they told me to get 4 basic contact blocks that are NO, but after doing more research these won't work for the actuator as I need to reverse polarity which my current DP/DT switch does for me. I am assuming the winch side of things will be fine with the standard contact block, but wanted you guys to confirm for me as well.

This is the Eaton switch I have bought now and these are the standard contact blocks they sold me with it ( I have 4 of them). For the solenoid I bought this basic ON/OFF switch. I bought this box to mount the Eaton and the Carling switches in and mount to the handle bar of the ATV.

Winch control: So I believe I can keep 2 of the standard contact blocks and use them for the winch controls by wiring them with the 12V+ wire to the top of both contact blocks and then one of each of the remaining 2 wires from the factory winch switch to the bottom of each block. This would then allow me to remove the factory winch switch.

Actuator control: From what I understand I would need to reverse polarity and the standard Eaton contact block they sold me won't do that by itself. I could add relays, but I am limited on space and also want to make this as simple and cost effective as I can. So I am wondering if the contact block I found online would work for me. This is the double block that I found and I would return 2 of the standard blocks and buy 2 of these instead. I don't know if that would work, or how to wire this to function correctly like my current DP/DT switch does.

Solenoid control: The new Carling basic ON/OFF switch will get mounted next to the Eaton 4 way switch and should be a straight forward swap of the current wires I have setup already on the existing switch. (just a cheap one I had laying around, but not water proof)

The actuator I have is not from this company, but looks to be exactly the same with specs and all. I have the 6" with 20:1 gears like this one from Northern Tool. The company I got mine from no longer has it on their website, but these links should give you the info on it.

This is the solenoid I used from Digi-key.

I am open to all ideas on improving this setup and thank you all in advance for any input you can give me. :)

Thanks
Bryan
 

Thread Starter

BryanChewy

Joined Feb 1, 2020
2
Is that solenoid powerful enough to pull the pin out?
Yes it does. It took me a long time to fine tune the spring weight so when powered off it pushes the plunger out with enough force to drop back into the slot to lock the blade in place. The spring couldn't be too heavy or the solenoid couldn't pull the plunger and the spring back in. It was a real pain and lots of trial and error. LOL It's not a perfect setup, as I have to de-energize the solenoid before I get to the lock slot that I want to use and then let the lock basically slide on the steel plate until it falls into the slot, then release the actuator switch.

I'm sure there is a really cool way to use some PC board kind of setup that would allow me to hit a button and it would do everything itself. But I would think I would need multiple limit switches on the actuator and a whole bunch more knowledge then I have to make it work like that. LOL
 
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