It's not worth the bother. A capacitor costs more for a given capacity, and will occupy more volume. It might even be heavier. The only sensible use of a capacitor for starting that I've seen is a hybrid lead-acid with a capacitor. The battery charges the capacitor, which provides a large but brief surge current to start the engine. This surge capacity allows using a bit smaller lead-acid portion since the peak current is no longer the limiting factor. I think this is competitive in very cold environments where lead-acid batteries lose so much of their capacity.Seen the above done countless times on good ol' YouTube but how do we actually do it? What capacitors can I use? Can I do a straight swap? Cheers in advance ?
BSA (and possibly Triumph) did it on the 250cc scrambler version. The electrolytic was pretty big, but I don't know the capacitance. Those old Brit bikes used a dirty great Zener shunt regulator - a capacitor might confuse modern mostly electronic regulator packs.Seen the above done countless times on good ol' YouTube but how do we actually do it? What capacitors can I use? Can I do a straight swap? Cheers in advance ?
easier with a 3-ph alternator stator than a single phase type - but whatever you can get hold of must have a matching rotor that fits the taper on the end of the crank shaft.Thanks for all the feedback, the aim Is to reduce the light flickering, at idle, and obv save weight as trying to get the bike under 100kg wet.
and if the Zener drops out - https://groceries.asda.com/product/view-all-party-supplies/asda-party-poppers/910001798892Only just seen this post so you may be sorted by now
the "Battery eliminator" was used on some brit bikes in the 60s/70s
I hate battery’s so still use them
you will not completely eliminate the bulb flickering at idle without a battery but the capacitor does help and it never goes flat and stops you starting the bike
original was 4700uF but I use a 6800uF 35volt make sure you buy a large power supply type about35x50mm you just wire them the same as a battery they are polarity sensitive
I take it you mean goes if the Zener goes open circuitand if the Zener drops out - https://groceries.asda.com/product/view-all-party-supplies/asda-party-poppers/910001798892
LEDs may be ok really depends on the alternator some bikes only have single pole lights windingsThank you a great help looking FWD to experimenting with that I'm guessing that if I use LED'S the flickering will not be an issue just brightness overall will be effected?
|Thread starter||Similar threads||Forum||Replies||Date|
|Replacing old 5.5 V transformer in junction box||General Electronics Chat||3|
|Replacing a selenium rectifier in a jukebox amp||General Electronics Chat||28|
|Is this an effective circuit for replacing a 48V 5A mechanical on-off switch?||Power Electronics||12|
|B||Replacing pot in DS201 Drawmer audio gate||Analog & Mixed-Signal Design||12|
|A||Replacing a washing machine pump||General Electronics Chat||11|
by Duane Benson
by Aaron Carman
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz