Yeah, and a paper back of the NEC code book runs about $150 and the NFPA 70E is about $85 and really not much of anything changes. Yeah, the BS with GFCI and Arc Flash breakers but really nothing new. Rather than just do updates like an ECN (Engineering Change Notification) they publish the whole book and market it. Bingo, as long as the work is signed off it's a deal done.

Ron

 

Ok Ok---So I'm thinking---remove the 30 amp 2 pole thing in my box. Can I plug into that space a single pole 20 amp breaker? Now the wires----Can I use the existing red and black as the new black and white to the new 120 recepticle and that existing white keep as the ground to the recepticle? I like #12's idea of just wire nut a piece of 12 guage on to the 10 and use a regular 120 type/ 15 amp recepticle. Is that a no-no-and I must use a 20 amp recepticle? Will a normal Microwave 120 type plug just plug in to it? Will I get fried somewhere here???? This new microwave only is rate at 13 amp by the way.
Luv, Bork

 

You need a 20 amp service outlet which should be GFCI. You can use the existing #10 as long as there is enough and as long as you can get it on the socket terminals. Yes you can just install a 20 amp breaker single and remove what is in there. When all is said and done you can use a standard 20 amp breaker and run to a GFCI outlet or install a single 20 Amp GFIC breaker to a standard 20 amp service outlet. NEC is clear as to the GFCI so I won't tell you to do different. You can use the existing wiring using only Black, White and Ground. That make sense to you?

Ron

 

Your 13 amp machine needs a 20 amp circuit breaker and a 20 amp outlet.
Don't violate the color code.
Don't use red or black for neutral. It's against the law, easy to fix, and might get the next guy killed.
I don't know what a microwave 120 type plug is. Use your eyes to look at it.

 

OK ---so how do I use the existing red, black, and white 10 gage wires that currently exist?

 

And Im trying to say that the microwave comes with a normal looking plug that plugs into a normal looking 115/120 type outlet?

 

Look at post #10

 

If it's a normal plug, buy a normal outlet.
It's not a trick question.

 

Check the current rating of the MW and look at post #4.
Max.

 

It's 13 amps and needs a 20 amp circuit.
post #4 is behind in keeping up with the conversation.

 

It's 13 amps and needs a 20 amp circuit.
post #4 is behind in keeping up with the conversation.

So a 15amp breaker is not going to protect it?
Max.

 

A 15 amp breaker violates the 80% rule of the NEC.
Doesn't it?
I mean they have strange rules about requiring at least (8) 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp line.
Go figure.

 

The outlet is on its own circuit, the MW takes 13 amps, the rule here at least, is a MW on dedicated circuit, which in this case it appears to be, it seems to be making a simple issue more complicated?
All the domestic MW's I have encountered are fitted with a normal 15amp plug and are under 1500watts?
His wiring is certainly amply sized.
Max.

 

NEC 422 Appliances
422-5, exception 3 see table 220-19
220-19 no of appliances = 1
demand factor=80%

Then there is always the possibility that I don't know the whole book or that it has been changed since 1981.

 

If I'm reading the OP's last few comments correctly, there's no ground wire in the current setup (just two hots and a neutral,) which means there's no legit way to finish the job without running some new wire, right?

 

Right now we're assuming there is a naked wire for the bond and Bork's too new to recognize it as important, but it's good to ask.
If there is not a green or a naked wire, he will have to put green tape on the red wire to declare it as green.

 

I THINK you can get away using ideal term-a-nuts (green/black/white), so you can work with the low AWG outlets compared to the existing wire as long as your protected for the lowest AWG.

 

I THINK you can get away using ideal term-a-nuts (green/black/white), so you can work with the low AWG outlets compared to the existing wire as long as your protected for the lowest AWG.

Do you mean colored wire nuts? I thought the colors were only about what size the wire nuts are.

 

As to the Receptacle Ratings :

Circuit Rating (Amperes) / Receptacle Rating (Amperes)
15 / Not Over 15
20 / 15 or 20 (They allow some room here)
30 / 30
40 / 40 or 50 (They allow some room)
50 / 50

Maximum Cord-And-Plug Load Connected To Receptacle:

Circuit Rating (Amperes) / Receptacle Rating (Amperes) / Maximum Load (Amperes)
15 or 20 / 15 / 12
20 / 20 / 16
30 / 30 / 24

The above numbers show the 80% rule in play. Just because we have a 15 amp breaker wired with AWG 14 wire and a 15 amp receptacle does not mean we can have a 15 amp load. The maximum load on a 20 amp breaker wired with AWG 12 wire and a 20 amp receptacle is 16 amps, not 20 amps. This is taken from Table 210.21(B)(2) and 210.21(B)(3) with the wire gauges called out in Table 210.24.

Now as if all of that was not entertaining enough and because we like to punish ourselves and nothing is ever as simple as we would like (or as inexpensive) we have the famous GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt). Enter 210.8 which among other wonderful things spells out 210.8(A)(6) if it is in a kitchen it needs to be GFIC in so many words or less. If the receptacle serves a counter top surface which includes mounted microwave ovens the service needs GFCI protection. Additionally somewhere in all this wonderful endless text is a portion that spells out the kitchen receptacles must be 20 amp service. So all of this comes down to 20 amp receptacles wired with AWG 12 minimum (or greater), which are GFCI protected.

The color schemes? The biggest concern is grounds, we know the NEC loves grounds. The color coding is all covered in section 200.6 for grounds. Section 210.5 mentions the ungrounded conductors and while the exact color codes are not spelled out they do say:

210.5(C) Ungrounded Conductors:
Where the premises wiring system has branch circuits supplied from more than one nominal voltage system, each ungrounded conductor of a branch circuit shall be identified by phase or line and system at all termination, connection, and splice points. The means of identification shall be permitted to be by separate color coding, marking tape, tagging, or other approved means. The method utilized for conductors originating within each branch-circuit panel board or similar branch-circuit distribution equipment shall be documented in a manner that is readily available or shall be permanently posted at each branch-circuit panelboard or similar branch-circuit distribution equipment. All of this means Tape and Wire Nuts are fine and dandy.

I believe this pretty much covers everything and then some. Now my head hurts and I need a drink at 9 AM in the morning.

Ron

 

#12: No these guys: http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/oem/twist-on/term-a-nut_pigtail.php

Wire nuts with integrated pigtails. I used them when I did upgrades and new installs. Much easier.
i.e. the boxes were grounded, but the outlets were two-prong and no ground screw in the metal box.
Usually, you have to make permanent connections to the box and the ground screw on the outlet.
Except for certain "approved" receptacles, you can't rely on the screw to make the ground contact to the box.