Repair thermoelectric wine cooler

Thread Starter

chakat

Joined Oct 18, 2020
4
does anyone know where i could get a new board somewhere or do i have to build an entire board? also just curious since i am new, is there a way to increase the temperature to 70 degrees for my red wine? got brand called witches brew and it tastes perfect around the 70-75 degree range. so i was not sure if that would be something i would have to rip apart the door to change or its actually on the circuit board in the back. anything helpful would be great.

on a side note, when the unit becomes unpowered for a while, and plugged back in ~ cleaning purposes~ i noticed that there is like a electrical arc thing happening on the circuit board with the red light. like its shooting an electical arc inside the little red light. after a while of it being plugged in, it somehow decides to turn itself on and function normally until the next cleaning or a power outage. so i was wondering if there was something that someone may know what to look for.

i just dabble in this stuff, never really worked on circuit boards unless i was changing out a speaker for a kenwood radio. diagrams and for "the stupid" simple explination would be excellent. please and thank you.
 

Dodgydave

Joined Jun 22, 2012
9,688
Here's one...of many versions..

NTC-Thermistors-Sensor-Assembly.jpg

To get it to go warmer you need a higher resistance, this will fool the micro thinking its colder and will stop chilling ..
 

Thread Starter

chakat

Joined Oct 18, 2020
4
Ok, so a resistor... solder that in line with the thermoresistor or just get one that's a bit higher? So that temp thing is solved....do you have any ideas as whats wrong with the main board with the start up issue? Maybe a capacitor or something? There is a buzz... electrical arc sound (and the red light quickly flashes as if it gaining and suddenly losing power) emitting from the red light beside the green one when i plug it in for about a minute before the fans click on and the peltier starts working. All the caps look fine... no bulges or leaks. So I was thinking that may be the issue but I'm not sure if caps still die without any physical damage to them and how do I go about checking those if that may be one of the issue?
 
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