PWM circuit to dim an LED

Thread Starter

Mellisa_K

Joined Apr 2, 2017
391
To answer your question, I don't use adaptors, but rather I make my own PCBs using a process that I developed myself over the years.

Take a close look at these three links:

https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...ter-for-making-pcbs.110189/page-2#post-849894

https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/my-etching-process.115229/#post-898993

https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/my-new-etching-tank.117346/
Very impressive, thankyou @cmartinez

My only comment on your PVC/acrylic bonding method is to point out something that you probably already know:

Being a thermoplastic, PVC can be welded using a hot air process. The welding rods are also PVC. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_welding?wprov=sfla1
 

Thread Starter

Mellisa_K

Joined Apr 2, 2017
391
For devices such as those inductors, what I usually do is create a land pattern larger than the one recommended in the datasheet, and then proceed exactly as I would proceed with an SMT resistor or capacitor. That is, I'd make sure the solder touches the sides of its terminals. And in the inductor you're working with, that too is also possible because its terminals wrap up from the bottom to its sides, exposing a narrow area to which the solder can attach itself to.

Edit: The key is to press the iron's tip mainly on the PCB's pad and not directly on the side of the part. This to allow the heat (and thus the solder) to flow and find its way to the component.
Thankyou. This gives me the confidence I need to try it out as you suggest. Rather than make a pcb I could first try an existing proprietary adapter that happens to have pads that line up. I'll look.

One day I will etch my own PCBs and when I do I will look on your work in these threads for guidance. I can see you've worked very hard perfecting the process.

Thanks for sharing @cmartinez
 

Thread Starter

Mellisa_K

Joined Apr 2, 2017
391
For devices such as those inductors, what I usually do is create a land pattern larger than the one recommended in the datasheet, and then proceed exactly as I would proceed with an SMT resistor or capacitor. That is, I'd make sure the solder touches the sides of its terminals. And in the inductor you're working with, that too is also possible because its terminals wrap up from the bottom to its sides, exposing a narrow area to which the solder can attach itself to.

Edit: The key is to press the iron's tip mainly on the PCB's pad and not directly on the side of the part. This to allow the heat (and thus the solder) to flow and find its way to the component.
Do you think capillary action helps make the solder flow into the gaps, and this is why you can heat mainly the pad and not so much the lugs of the device?
 

cmartinez

Joined Jan 17, 2007
8,796
Do you think capillary action helps make the solder flow into the gaps, and this is why you can heat mainly the pad and not so much the lugs of the device?
Probably, but I wouldn't worry too much about the solder making perfect contact through the part's entire lug (unless large currents are involved), but rather that the solder firmly attaches it to the PCB.

On the other hand, and to be clear, what I do is I first make sure that the solder thoroughly wets the exposed pad, and then I slide the iron's tip to also make contact with the component so as to more effectively heat it... sorry if I didn't explain this earlier.
 

Thread Starter

Mellisa_K

Joined Apr 2, 2017
391
Hello @cmartinez

Lovely of you to remember me. Thank you for keeping in touch. I haven't been on AAC over the last year.

No - I had to prioritize work over my electronics hobby since COVID19. However, I am nonetheless mad keen on my hobby. I cant wait to get back into it - your message and those of others from the AAC community are encouraging to me.

With kindest regards

Mell
 
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