Powering my bead roller

Thread Starter

astroracer

Joined Dec 14, 2020
3
Hey guys, I just joined, I am not new to this stuff just getting out of my comfort zone, which I admit isn't very big. I do a lot of automotive work, wiring included and right now I am rebuilding a 1956 Chevy 2 door wagon. This has involved a lot of off-hand panel making and I am getting tired driving my bead roller with one hand and trying to guide a piece of sheet steel thru the rollers with some acceptable accuracy with the other.
With all of that said I am designing a drive system for it. the heart is going to be a 1/2" drive variable speed reversible drill motor. I want to keep all of the bells and whistles but, instead of running the drill with the trigger I want to run it with a foot switch. I have this one picked out for the moment.
IndustrialField YDT1-101 Foot Switch Pedal Foot Control Reverse Switch 220V /380V 10A 15A Double Control Three Phase Motor: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific 1608001161703.png
This will not power the variable speed but it will do the forward/reverse thing if I wire it to replace the F/R switch in the drill motor. I plan to capture the variable speed with a router speed controller which I have on hand already.
Does this sound like a good plan? I guess I am looking for insight on if there is an easier way. The drill will run thru the speed controller and will be "locked" on full speed with the trigger or, if it is easy to do I will just take the whole trigger out of the loop.
What do you think?
Thanks
Mark
 

dendad

Joined Feb 20, 2016
3,835
I would think you need to ensure the motor comes to a halt before reversing the direction.
So, it is not just a case of replacing the reversing switch.
Although, it may be ok, depending on how it is all wired.
Can you show the internals of the foot switch, and its circuit?
 

Thread Starter

astroracer

Joined Dec 14, 2020
3
Making sure it is stopped won't be an issue. It will be going pretty slow as a rule anyway and it will be stopped before I reverse it. The drill will be driving an automotive flexplate that I am adapting to the bead roller's input shaft. I haven't calculated the reduction but it is a lot
I haven't ordered it yet, I have been trying to find a schematic for the switch with no luck. My next recourse will be to contact the company.
Thanks for the input! Appreciate your time.
Mark
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
8,586
@astroracer , I don't know if you are aware of another forum, MetalMeet.com, but there area lot of builds there about powering a beadroller there. Also one that will make you drool, about the build of a 55 or 56(can't remember) Chevy Nomad. His attention to detail and his documentation of how he is doing it is so, so good!

Just a link to the thread over there - http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6251&page=174

The whole forum is well worth some time to look at if your into metal shaping of any type.
 

Thread Starter

astroracer

Joined Dec 14, 2020
3
Oh, I am a member there, haven't been on it for quite a while so it gets out of my attention span. Thanks for reminding me, I'll get on and check it out. :)
Mark
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
8,586
Oh, I am a member there,
I've been a member there through most of the forum hijacks where we had to rejoin, so my join date doesn't match with the length of membership. At one time the big thing was using a cheap Harbor Frieght winch to drive them, no variable speed. Do know some have come up with different drive systems though some with variable speed. But seems to me that most people just pick a slow single speed and stay with it.
 
Ostensibly it should be pretty easy to replace the drill's trigger potentiometer with a potentiometer foot pedal. Select forward/reverse with an e.g. 800T switch and use the pedal to ease the work along at whatever pace is right. Just ohm the pot used by the drill manufacturer and replace it with a pot of equal resistance.

Alternatively a small gearhead 3 phase motor and a VFD w/ 0-10V input and dynamic brake terminals could be arranged to do exactly the same. E.g. ABB ACS150, etc.
 
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