BT151s just showed up.
That would be me. But just "speed control" isn't what is needed. Speed control of a hit and miss is based on load not time. With out using the governor built into the original ignition I can think of no way this will happen.A while back, someone here mentioned engine speed control.
In keeping with the hit-and-miss principal of this old engine, here's an add-on possibility which uses the Blanking signal from the above circuit to sense if the trigger pulse repetition period is shorter than a preset limit.
That would be me. But just "speed control" isn't what is needed. Speed control of a hit and miss is based on load not time. With out using the governor built into the original ignition I can think of no way this will happen.
Why use a "trigger coil"? Wouldn't a Hall type sensor work better? Like they use in a car engine, a crank position sensor.
This whole thing could have been up and running if it had been done with off the shelf automotive parts and there would be no troubleshooting and other BS involved. It's called the KISS principle.
As per diagram in post #74 on page 4 it shorts the 'comp' input to ground which is the output of error comparator & input to PWM control. A low level here stops PWM generation and leaves MOSFET off.. @Irving thinks the timing cap is shorted to do this, but I'm not so sure. If I'm reading the UC3843 datasheet correctly I think shorting that cap would leave the MOSFET switched on
Ah. That makes sense. Thanks for the link back. I think I missed that post previously.As per diagram in post #74 on page 4 it shorts the 'comp' input to ground
It's not AC as in 'powered off the AC mains', but (like most/all CDI) it has to create AC first by inverting DC, then raising the created AC voltage before rectifying it to HV DC.I think that Jaycar circuit is a traditional AC CDI
so can I just substitute my power supply into the Jaycar schematic? Would inserting my HV generator work - would the SCR shut off?It's not AC as in 'powered off the AC mains', but (like most/all CDI) it has to create AC first by inverting DC, then raising the created AC voltage before rectifying it to HV DC.
I agree but it is all covered in Epoxy and you can’t see the parts, replace them or use it to teach. It’s a black box. It works but it’s darn frustrating.A GM HEI ignition module is cheap proven and reliable.
Easy way to make a better and more reliable ignition than breaker points ( but you can use the points in place of a trigger coil too )