No flash codes

Thread Starter

Stoob85

Joined May 1, 2021
3
I have an EPIC T60 EPTL818040 treadmill and am trying to troubleshoot the motor control board, p/n 223673. There is 110ac to LG1 and there is continuity to LG2 from plug. The speed sensor gap was about 5/16" so I reset it to 1/8". The upper control consul is fully operational and I made sure it was not in Demo mode. I set it to a low speed and pressed start but nothing happens except the time commences its countdown and the race track starts blinking. The incline motor is fully operational. I disconnected the DC motor and checked its operation with a 12 volt power source for a model train set. The belt moves at a nominal speed so I think it is okay. After several attempts at resetting the power switch, the LED remains UNLIT.
At this point, I'm tempted to order a new control board but it has to be brought in from afar and there is no guarantee it will solve the problem. Are there any more simple tests that can be done with a meter which will either condemn the board or point me to another solution? I don't mind replacing resistors, capacitors, etc but my experience with circuit boards in general is minimal and absolutely zero with this machine.
 

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,153
I have an EPIC T60 EPTL818040 treadmill and am trying to troubleshoot the motor control board, p/n 223673. There is 110ac to LG1 and there is continuity to LG2 from plug. The speed sensor gap was about 5/16" so I reset it to 1/8". The upper control consul is fully operational and I made sure it was not in Demo mode. I set it to a low speed and pressed start but nothing happens except the time commences its countdown and the race track starts blinking. The incline motor is fully operational. I disconnected the DC motor and checked its operation with a 12 volt power source for a model train set. The belt moves at a nominal speed so I think it is okay. After several attempts at resetting the power switch, the LED remains UNLIT.
At this point, I'm tempted to order a new control board but it has to be brought in from afar and there is no guarantee it will solve the problem. Are there any more simple tests that can be done with a meter which will either condemn the board or point me to another solution? I don't mind replacing resistors, capacitors, etc but my experience with circuit boards in general is minimal and absolutely zero with this machine.
Have you searched for a service manual? They can be hard to find and there's no guaranty there even is one, but it might help a lot if you could get your hands on one.
 

Thread Starter

Stoob85

Joined May 1, 2021
3
Have you searched for a service manual? They can be hard to find and there's no guaranty there even is one, but it might help a lot if you could get your hands on one.
I have looked and sofar, all I've found is the user manual which doesn't even mention what a no LED light means. I've googled plenty and everything reverts back to the MC2100 which is the earlier version. There are a few obvious differences like; the On-Off/Reset switch and transformer have been moved off the circuit board. The remainder looks to be the same but I can't say for sure. That's why I'm reaching out to all the experts who have already come across this issue, know where the answer is, or are smart enough to help me fix or replace the control board.
 

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,153
That's why I'm reaching out to all the experts who have already come across this issue, know where the answer is, or are smart enough to help me fix or replace the control board.
We can hope there is such an expert here. It certainly isn't me.

As for repair, let's start with good pictures. One common suspect you can look for without knowing anything about this particular board is electrolytic capacitors that may be bulging, have leaked or burst, or other components that look like they got too hot. It's amazing what you can see with good lighting and a magnifying glass that you can easily miss otherwise. Connectors are another place to look.

A repair without a schematic can be tough but there are folks around here that may see familiar circuitry in a photo and have more ideas for you.
 

Thread Starter

Stoob85

Joined May 1, 2021
3
We can hope there is such an expert here. It certainly isn't me.

As for repair, let's start with good pictures. One common suspect you can look for without knowing anything about this particular board is electrolytic capacitors that may be bulging, have leaked or burst, or other components that look like they got too hot. It's amazing what you can see with good lighting and a magnifying glass that you can easily miss otherwise. Connectors are another place to look.

A repair without a schematic can be tough but there are folks around here that may see familiar circuitry in a photo and have more ideas for you.
One of the first things I did was to look for burnt resistors and bulging capacitors, but nothing jumped out at me. As for the schematic, I have one for the MC2100 but have found nobody that actually says it will work for trouble shooting the MC2100WA and to just ignore the switch and transformer location. What is interesting is that the console is fully functional so the only time you know something is wrong is when push the star button and the belt doesn't move. I think a signal voltage must be sent from the console to the control board to start the motor and then another signal from the reed switch circuit takes over by maintaining the desired pulse rate (belt speed).
 

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