I've been away for a while, sorry if this is a repost. I have the need to power a light about the brightness of a 7watt nightlite (leds would be nice) with a battery power source (12volt direct current) with a IR sensor wired in between (to turn on light when viewer is in front of work) this will help save power supply when in gallery for a month or more. I bought 3 IR kits as I was informed on a sale. I am planning to take the IR parts out of the container to mount in space inside the artwork. If possible I would pay to have someone wire one for me so I could have a visual example to copy. If not, any info would be helpful.

this is the diagram that can with it.

this is the board.

 

It appears the on time is limited to 2 seconds!? Is this adjustable? Is this what you wanted?

full data sheet here,

I'll need to read it before I claim what I stated above.
Yikes, Your image was the full data sheet!


You may want to look at one of these.

 

It appears the on time is limited to 2 seconds!? Is this adjustable? Is this what you wanted?

full data sheet here,

I'll need to read it before I claim what I stated above.
Yikes, Your image was the full data sheet!


You may want to look at one of these.

Wow, didn't realize it was limited to 2 seconds. Really would need it to be open for 3-5mins at a time. I really don't want to put a flip switch on the work, but I may have to

 

Two sec. on time is the reason for Fig 3 to give adjustable on time, adaptable to either a relay or transistor driver for incadescent bulb or bunch of LED's. Thumbnail shows tested circuit, using D1326, 8A, 60V. With mountig hole up , base is left, collector center, emitter right, D2 is LED, D3 same as D1. Unit is suposed to operate about 6 mo. on 9V battery, does not count external lights. Unit can be operated on 12V by dropping 3V with 4 diodes in series with 12V source and + battery clip, or a white LED would also give 3-3.5V drop. D2. If using LED's several strings of 3 white LED's & a 27Ω resistrr all in series.

 

What it doesn't tell you, but may be true, is that as long as there is motion in front of the sensor the on time may be continuous.

Being in a room the sensor may be on more often than you want. Using some shrink tubing may help you use the sensor more discreetly. The longer the tubing, the smaller the area of detection. Although Bernard's circuit will help you keep the light on longer than 2 seconds, you may actually have more difficulty getting the circuit to turn off! The maximum distance one of these sensors can detect motion can be quite far and I'm almost certain it would cover a large portion of an entire room. It may need to be pointed down towards the floor. You will have to experiment.

 

The lens can be partially taped over to limit coverage, bottom portion covers aria near sensor. The external time delay ckt. is retriggered periodocally with continued motion activity.

 

The lens can be partially taped over to limit coverage, bottom portion covers aria near sensor. The external time delay ckt. is retriggered periodocally with continued motion activity.

I will have to sit down in the studio tomorrow and draw a crude rendering of the very technical drawing you attached, I'll run it by you to see if I am on the right path.

I am hoping on mounting the electronics inside the work so the sensor will probably have a small tube to work through (this depends if I can utilize and shrink the system I have). Thanks for the input, It makes me think this may still be doable.

Can I remove just the parts I need and perhaps put them on a smaller board (bread board?) to fit in a smaller space? As I understand it I need just power source, resistors to limit power to ir sensor, relay/timer to keep the power going to the light source for a pre described time (am I right or missing something)?

 

I see now, that I have been asking a lot of everyone. I'll need to do this in baby steps so I am doing one part at a time in hopes of learning as much as possible. I'm starting with the red (+) what are the parts as seen in the sketch (take from bernards thumbnail)?

 

See fig # 1 & #2 new thumbnail; use either to convert PIR to operate on external 12V DC. Not needed if using 9V battery. Fig. # 1 uses common silicon rectifier diodes. THe 1N4007 was used because that is what I had & just about any supply house inc. RS will carry the 1N 4000 series. The string will drop about 2.8 V. The band on diode marks cathode [K ]. The battery clips each have 3 solder spots , use one on the + clip [upper] to make the connection to the first diode cathode.

Fig. # 2 is similar but uses a single white LED. a flat on the base of the LED marks the cathode. this is not alwaws true, maybe 99%. One advantage of the LED is that you can tell when the PIR receives a " hit".

Fig. # 3 shows multi strings of LED's. Ea. string draws about 20 mA so 3 str. draws 60 mA.or about 1/5 that of the bulb. The D1326 is an insulated case darlington trantisror rated @ 8A, 60V, gain about 1000. I see R 1 got lost,from base to ground [-12V], can also be a 500k Pot.,[ variable resistor]. Hope this helps, give it a try, we'r still here.

 

Back to page 7. There is a lot of circuitry that you do not need for your application as false alarms do not bring a penalty. A doublesided board ,packed with lots of goodies is not fun to reverse engineer but if I had a board to experiment with I would have a go at it, I'm not going to tear up my PIR, it's in use protecting my goodies, and yes ,using a 9V battery.

 

Ok, I think I get it. I just need the 1N4000 between the 12 volt and post. I don't want to worry about replacing small 9 volts in a hard to reach space. In figure 2 I like the idea of a led to show me if I'm getting a hit. Is the led work with the 1N4000 and if so I take it it goes after the 1N4000. I'll start figure 3 after this. If possible could you help me with a list of items I need to buy and I get them asap, also if there is a book for dummies like me you would recommend?

 

To operate PIR from 12V reffer back to page 9 #1 & # 2 thumbnail. Using [#2] LED ,nothing else is required other than the white LED, this assumes that there will not be a heavy load on the external output [ yellow wire ], the time delay ckt. is not considerd a heavy load. Do not forget Negative battery lead, black wire,from solder spot near top of board or - battery clip. A parts list depends on which circuits you wish to construct, if #3 1N4004, 1k , 100k , 330k[ or 500k pot ], 1000μF cap. 35V or better, and as many white LED's as you wish, one 27Ω resistor for every three LED's. All resistors 1/4 W , ok to use 1/2 W.
For information , it's right at your fingertip, Volume I-VI and good video.

 

Thanks, I never noticed those Volumes up on the top bar.

 

If you have access to Dec. 08, Nuts & Volts magazine there is an article 'BUILD A DOG DETECTOR ' compares several methods of detecting a body.

 

Check, LED Man , Ultrasonic Radar