need to have my first pcb produced.. high power leds..

Thread Starter

robinscottlawrie

Joined Feb 15, 2018
96
Hi experts. ive dabbled in electronics all my life, but my experience extends to veroboard and hand soldering.

i now have a project where i need to utilise some fairly specific SMT leds.

this means i must jump on a steep learning curve to get some pcbs produced.

these are the leds, to be exact:

https://ams-osram.com/products/leds/white-leds/osram-oslon-black-flat-x-kw5-hql631-tk

there will be 5 or 6 of them mounted in a line along their longest axis as close to each other as possible, to produce a high aspect ratio linear light source.

each is rated at 16 watts, so around 96 watts in total, and around 6 amps to carry in the traces. no other components need mounting on the board, the driver circuitry will be seperate.

im imagining a board of approximately 10cm x 2cm, with two chunky traces allowing connection to power from either end. there would be a mounting hole at either end of the board..


given the high power requirements, and the need to mount to a heatsink, i would assume a solid core pcb.. either aluminium or copper, obviously alu is preferred for cost, but ive no idea if copper would be essential with these power levels.

i did use a trace width calculator i found online, with suggested for 6 amps a trace width of 3.5mm if on the pcb surface and 8.5mm if internal. i imagine i have no reason to skimp on traces so id be inclined to make them as wide as possible.

does anybody have an advice for a total beginner?

ive been looking at JLCpcb, who seem suitable, but going from "i want this" to ordering a product, with zero knowledge is quite daunting.

all i have done so fare is mail a request to have the component added to their easyEDA software, since it shows in their catalogue (out of stock) but is not available in the software to place.

EDIT, the current spec says max 1.5 amps per chip, but the luminace specs are based on a 1 amp current source. id probably not push them to 1.5 amps, but i probably need to spec the baord to consider a bit more than 1 amp per chip..
 
Last edited:

Jon Chandler

Joined Jun 12, 2008
1,560
If you're using JLC, EasyEDA is definitely the best option – it easily integrates with their manufacturing process. Use the standard version of EasyEDA. It will be easy to layout the board.

Digikey has the Ultra Librarian footprint and symbol for these LEDs. Download the file, and open the Eagle version to import them into EasyEDA.

You'll definitely NEED an aluminum-core PCB for this, with additional heatsinking. I'll let others comment on that.

Look at the "recommended operating conditions" to determine appropriate current, not the "absolute maximum conditions" to ensure a long operating life.

With the aluminum-core pcb, assembly is best left to professionals.
 

Thread Starter

robinscottlawrie

Joined Feb 15, 2018
96
yes i have no intention of attempting this as a diy job. ive no idea where to begin. i do wonder wether an aluminium core will be sufficient of wether ill need to go for a copper core. the price is much higher however - i tried swapping between aluminium and copper on their default ordering page without changing any other settings, and the price went from 9 dollars for aluminium to 40 something for copper. helluva difference.
 

ronsimpson

Joined Oct 7, 2019
4,646
I have not used this part. Use 1A. Maybe put a thermal senser in the middle somewhere. Use as much copper as you can. Maybe 95% filled. Copper helps pull heat away. I understand "6A traces" but just fill the PCB.
1763492657871.png
Picture did not turn out as I planned. Red=copper and Gray=copper. White=no copper.

I don't see data on temperature verses lifetime. I did some outdoor LED projects where I regulated by the temperature. At -40 degrees the current was high. In the summer the current was lower. We felt the LED life was longer.
 
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