The information you have now provided clears up some things I did not understand. I has assumed that because there were two relays that it controlecd two loads independently. Both relays operate together (Their coils are connected in series.) to provide double pole switching. I can't see the damaged track you describe on the picture of the back side of the board. (Is this a picture of YOUR board or just one copied from the documentation ?) The wiring diagram from the documentation is correct. It shows that the relays each switch one of the live wires. You have not provide a diagram of EXACTLY YOU HAVE CONNECTED IT. Can you do so including clear pictures of YOUR connections to the timer and YOUR connections to the water heater.

Les.

 

For the claim that "it does not work", please explain what it is intended to do that it is not doing. I see two possible things: Either the switches are not turning on, or the timer is not moving.
And it seems that J had left without posting this comment yesterday.

 

Hi MisterBill2,
I am working on the assumption that when the relays closed to power the load (A water heater.) there was a dead short on the output of the timer that caused the supply fuse to blow and also burned the contact on the right hand relay.

Les.

 

Hi MisterBill2,
I am working on the assumption that when the relays closed to power the load (A water heater.) there was a dead short on the output of the timer that caused the supply fuse to blow and also burned the contact on the right hand relay.

Les.

You must have some information that I missed. That could be the cause of the complaint, except that I did not get the exact nature of the complaint, "does not work" covers a number of possible faults. MOST of the electro-mechanical timer problems that I have come across are in the mechanical drive area, where the motor ceases to drive. The most recent type is with a new motor design where the teeth on the motor rotor fail because of being a very poor design using a very poor grade of plastic. In fact, it is probably the worst design of any product in the past decade!

 

Hi MisterBill2,
I am basing my assumption that the fault caused a large overcurrent that blew the fuse in the description in post #16 and the fact that the NO contact on the right hand relay looks burned. I asked the question if the timer was new or had been in service for some time. As I was told that it was new I decided the burned contact was due to the fault. (This was probably the origin of the flash that was reported.)

Les.

 

@LesJones As you can see, my circuit board is now disconnected, and I didn't take pictures before I took it apart. But I am 100% certain that I wired it exactly according to the diagram attached.

This timer was used one time only, and had been purchased online about 3 months before install. (winter)

I don't think the NO contact looks burned, but I do think there's something different about the NC (#3) contact on the back side of the PCB. (I admit you have to closely though) I think the "burned" appearance of the NO contact in the first photo is due to a reflection from the protective plastic.

@MisterBill2 my "it doesn't work" means that after I reset the fuse and tried to repower the timer, it wouldn't tranfer load to the pumps that it is attached to.

p.s. I am actually using this timer to operate a pool cleaning pump, not a water heater. My pump can run on both 120 and 240, so when I had it attached through the down-circuit switch (single-pole) it was running when the switch was open, but when I closed the switch it put all the juice through, and blew out the fuse and apparently damaged the PCB, because there was a flash and a bzzzt noise and now it won't allow power through. I freely admit my error is trying to use the single-pole switch.

 

You are not making it clear what you mean by "down-circuit switch". Are you talking about the switch in the timer or is this another switch ? If it is another switch then you need to show us WITH A SCHEMATIC how it is connected. Do these test to see if the timer is working with no load on the output. (Nothing connected to any of the six right hand connections.) Connect the 240 volt supply to the two left hand terminals. Does the dial rotate slowly. (It will only do one revolution in 24 hours so you will have to wait to detect if it has moved.) Next starting with the switch on the timer in the middle off position move it to the down position (Manual on.) and note if there is a click from the relays and and if you can see the relay contacts move from the normally closed position to the normally open position. Report the results and and we will advise you what to do next.

Les.

 

Thanks Les!

Here is a rough scematic I drew.

"down-circuit switch" is switch 1. Switch 2 is for a second pump, but it never got the chance to be 'on', because the circuit blew when I turned switch 1 'on', and I bet you can see why. It also kind of explains why the pump ran with the switch in the 'off' position (because it was using the 120V from the grey wire)

I'll try your suggestions tonight.

Thanks again

 

I would not call that a schematic. If I understand the meaning of your drawing correctly it looks like when you close the contacts (I assume the two blue "T" shaped marks on the right hand side.) on the switch ( The switch with on and off marked on it.) you are connecting the black live to the grey live shorting out 240 volts. Although each one is 120 volts with respect to neutral they are 180 degrees out of phase with each other so there is 240 volts between them. Switches should be connected in SERIES with the load NOT in PARALLEL with it. This is why the fuse blows when you close the switch.
A single pole switch wired correctly will work but it is NOT a safe way to wire it as the wires to the motor will still be live with respect to ground when the switch is in the off position. One other point although the motors are dual voltage they will need to be configured correctly for use on each voltage.

Les.

 

It ain't pretty, because I made with Microsoft Paint. But you understood it, so I think it's not a terrible scematic.
I replaced they 120 single pole with a double pole, and the switches work properly now. (because they're wired correctly.)
So now my goal is to first make wusr the timer works, and then wire it into the circuit, so it delivers 240V to the pumps.
I know that this circuit works beyond the timer because that's how it was wired for almost 20 years, and functioned correctly every summer, and still functions correctly now.

 

The double pole switch should be rated for 240 volts (Or higher.) You would be better drawing the schematic on paper with a pencil. Then scan or in take a picture of it with a camera if you don't have a flatbed scanner.

Les.