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It all looks so bad that they could not bring themselves to put even a fake UL/CE sticker on it.
What is the voltage rating on those orange output capacitors?
Last edited:
Need help reducing the power on main voltage LED light
- Thread starter cdebrebisson
- Start date
What is the voltage rating on those orange output capacitors?
Hello,
> What is the voltage rating on those orange output capacitors
400V
> I see no way that light could be used for "calibration".
> Evidently I don't undserstand what sort of calibration the TS wants to achieve.
In astrophotography, when you take a picture, the light is dimmed locally on your image due to dust on optical surfaces, pixels that are less reactive and most importantly a loss of luminosity in the corner of the image (due to mechanical obstruction).
To counterract this, you take an image using as uniform a light as you can (in fact you average 40 of them). this will allow you to calculate, for each pixel, how much light is lost locally (as a % of the max) and apply an inverse correction to your images.
This image of a "white" is called a "flat".
Here is a typical "flat" (with great exageration of contrasts).
You can clearly see the bright center and dimming as you get to the sides/corners, as well as the doughnuts caused by dust (probably on a filter just ahead of the camera).
If I normalized the brightest part of this image as 1, and the rest as numbers smaller than 1, and then divide all the images I take of the stars by it, I correct for these.
Cyrille
> What is the voltage rating on those orange output capacitors
400V
> I see no way that light could be used for "calibration".
> Evidently I don't undserstand what sort of calibration the TS wants to achieve.
In astrophotography, when you take a picture, the light is dimmed locally on your image due to dust on optical surfaces, pixels that are less reactive and most importantly a loss of luminosity in the corner of the image (due to mechanical obstruction).
To counterract this, you take an image using as uniform a light as you can (in fact you average 40 of them). this will allow you to calculate, for each pixel, how much light is lost locally (as a % of the max) and apply an inverse correction to your images.
This image of a "white" is called a "flat".
Here is a typical "flat" (with great exageration of contrasts).
You can clearly see the bright center and dimming as you get to the sides/corners, as well as the doughnuts caused by dust (probably on a filter just ahead of the camera).
If I normalized the brightest part of this image as 1, and the rest as numbers smaller than 1, and then divide all the images I take of the stars by it, I correct for these.
Cyrille
