Checking the resistance value with a different ohm meter produced 0.6 across all 3 of those dual emitter resistors

 

Here is one test for you to perform on the amplifier.
Remove both output transistors, Q215FL and Q216FL.
Disconnect all loudspeakers from the amplifier.
Disconnect any inputs and set the volume control to the lowest setting.

Power up the amplifier.
If the unit stays powered without smoking, measure the DC voltage at the point where the center pin of the white resistor would be connected. The other lead (black) of the DMM is connected to the ground or chassis of the amplifier (assuming it is also bonded to GND or COMMON).

We are expecting to see close to 0.0V in this measurement.

 

Here is one test for you to perform on the amplifier.
Remove both output transistors, Q215FL and Q216FL.
Disconnect all loudspeakers from the amplifier.
Disconnect any inputs and set the volume control to the lowest setting.

Power up the amplifier.
If the unit stays powered without smoking, measure the DC voltage at the point where the center pin of the white resistor would be connected. The other lead (black) of the DMM is connected to the ground or chassis of the amplifier (assuming it is also bonded to GND or COMMON).

We are expecting to see close to 0.0V in this measurement.

I will try this now however both Q215Fl Q216FL were both shorted to itself across all three legs. I replaced both those output transformers with new ones. Also as of right now i have not rebuilt the circut yet. For this test would i need to rebuild everything up the the white cement resistor to do this test. I included a screenshot of the board right now in an earlier post. I will share another one including the white resistor location

 

 

So the way the board is laid out i cannot test that amp board while powered. The transistors are screwed to a heat sink and the board has to be screwed to it to fit back in with the wires. I had an idea tho to make sure its component level vs something before the amp board. What if i move all components over from center channel to front left. All the components across the 4 channels should all be the same according to the schematics. Is there any reason that something would fail if i left one speaker channel with no components. Just for testing of course? Thank you.

 

So the way the board is laid out i cannot test that amp board while powered. The transistors are screwed to a heat sink and the board has to be screwed to it to fit back in with the wires. I had an idea tho to make sure its component level vs something before the amp board. What if i move all components over from center channel to front left. All the components across the 4 channels should all be the same according to the schematics. Is there any reason that something would fail if i left one speaker channel with no components. Just for testing of course? Thank you.

No. Don't do that. I think your chances of getting it working again would not be good.

Let us start from square 1.
Assuming that this is a Sherwood Newcastle R-965 AV Receiver with seven channels, how many channels are working?
Which channels work and which channels do not work?

 

No. Don't do that. I think your chances of getting it working again would not be good.

Let us start from square 1.
Assuming that this is a Sherwood Newcastle R-965 AV Receiver with seven channels, how many channels are working?
Which channels work and which channels do not work?

As of right now I have not been able to turn it on to test the status of everything else. When I first picked it up I could see the physical damage and all the burnt components on the front left track so without powering anything I replaced all the shorted/ burned components. I plugged everything back togheter and tried to turn it on. When I powered it up the front left track burnt up again blowing almost all the same components. That's when I found that white resistor was bad and joined this forum. I can test it without fully assembling the front left track if that wont cause any damage. As far as I know tho right now the only problem should be that front left track but I can't verify as of now. As it stands. I rebuilt the entire track except for the 4 small transistors and the white dual emitter resistor. All of those parts are ordered and on there way.

 

Q15 and Q16 were also already replaced as all three legs were shorted to each other.

 

Your chances of repairing this unit with that kind of diagnostics and repair is going to be low.

To give you an idea, suppose there are three components, #1, #2, and #3 that are blown.
Suppose that a bad component #3 causes #1 and #2 to blow. Replacing #1 and #2 alone does not fix the problem and they will keep on blowing until #3 is replaced.

We would approach the problem differently.
Look at the schematic diagram and you will see that all seven channels are powered by +B and -B.
Locate on the PCB how +B and -B are routed to all seven channels.
Post a well focused photograph of the underside of the PCB and we will try to help you.

The approach will be to disconnect +B and -B to the bad channel, assuming that only one channel is bad.
We will attempt to power up the unit without letting out any smoke or blowing any fuses.
Then we will take some voltage readings.

 

Sorry its been a while. Lots of work but i did study on how to properly test npn and pnp transistors and discovered that not only was the ceramic dual emitter blown open on both sides but 2 more transistors were blown on the fl channel.
Q212 and Q211 are blown. Q211 shows voltage drop on 1 leg as 907 and the other at 203 Q212 1 leg is showing voltage drop of 113 and the other leg is straight shorted to base. Will replace these and update you.

 

Also mr chips i noticed that my replacement transistors have different markings compared to the others. Its the same model but it shows a .04 voltage difference between the others on both legs. The originals are marked 53p 2sa1216 the 2sc2922 is marked 4dp but my replacements are marked 5dy

 

redacted- better answers above

 

Thank you for your post BobaMosfet. I was able to source the replacement but if it came to it i could use 2 of those.

 

Quick Update: I received all the transistors and ceramic capacitors and replaced all of them and powered up the receiver. It all worked and powered up however the audio is extremely choppy. What would be the next step as i know the circuitry is solid but is there some way to fine tune the voltage/resistance on that track?

 

To refresh my memory, this is a Sherwood Newcastle R-965 Audio/Video Receiver.

So you can apply power and not let out the magic smoke?
You have 7 channels.
Which channels work properly?

 

To refresh my memory, this is a Sherwood Newcastle R-965 Audio/Video Receiver.

So you can apply power and not let out the magic smoke?
You have 7 channels.
Which channels work properly?

Yes it is a R965. Yes no more shorted components so now it works without smoking or frying the resistors. I hooked up an audio source to it and checked all the channels and all of them sound fine except for the front left track the one that went up and i have been working on this whole time.
The front left channel sounds very crackly/noisy.
The transistors that i got as replacements are the same type e.x. A1360 for A1360 etc however in diode mode they have different reading across the base/collector/emitter from the new/old parts.
There is also the questions of the old resistors values compared to schematic. For example in one resistor that burned up it called for a 56 ohm resistor but when checking the other channels boards it has a 57.7 ohm reading on the resistor.
I do not know if any of these things could introduce cracking/distorted audio output.
One last thing i did before bed is i took all the transistors from another track and swapped them to the front left track and tried it again and the audio sounded much better but still had some distortion to it but nowhere near as bad as my replacement transistors had.
I also replaced 2 capacitors on the board which had gone bad. Not sure if they could also cause distortion but it was the same type. E.x. 50 v 100 uf.
Hope all this info helps.

 

@MrChips I created a new thread more specific to helping with the repair. https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/...tle-r965-amp-board-repair-help-needed.187510/