Hi again Timescope, don't know if you check this thread anymore but I had another question on that Baldor motor.

So I have been using it a few times now and it seems to work ok. There is a few differences/concerns I have though. First is say you are running the motor at 1500rpm and you hit the stop button. Normally the motor would instantly start slowing down kinda like downshifting in a car. It doesn't just free spin until its stops, it actually acts somehow like a brake is being applied. But now when you hit stop, it keeps spinning maybe a second or two until it finally starts the slowing cycle. Before it would actually decel the moment stop is pressed. The other issue/question is say again the motor is running at 1500rpm, you hit stop and it slows to a stop. Before when you pressed start it would slowly start up and gently rise in rmp until it reached the last rpm setting (1500 in this case) This would take approx 5-10 seconds. Now the moment you press start it races right up to 1500 lickedly split. Maybe takes a second or less.

I have tried leaving it unplugged to see if it would reset, but no luck. Also thought I would mention that the motor was working correctly, or how it used to, right after the first time we got it working. I had ran some tests and the motor functioned just like it used to. It wasn't until after the first or second time that I used the lathe that it started doing this. So I guess what I am saying is even after I reassembled the motor and wired it back up to lathe, that it was working fine the first or second time. So around the 3rd time or so it started to act this way. I didn't change programing or mess around with anything.

So in the schematics I saw a brake chop on one of the sheets, is it possible something was on the verge of going out and finally did. I don't know what to check because the motor still turns on and will go threw the rpms up and down, and it does stop, but it takes allot longer then it used to. This isn't a big deal if its ok for the motor to run like this. But the initial start up is so fierce that I am afraid it will harm the motor. This motor is like a 1500$ or more motor, so I don't want to fry it again. LOL Another side note, when power to motor is switched off, it doesn't start up to the last 1500 rpm setting. It starts up at 0 rpm even when start is pressed. I first thought I fried it again, but I pressed the rpm up arrow and it started to spin and climb in rpm. And before I caused all this, when power was switched on which lit up the display (motor not spinning) I would press start and it would start up to a pre set rpm which was very slow and then the user would adjust to desired speed.

So I have no clue what I did, like I said, I didn't play with any of the settings on the display. I didn't take anything apart on the motor after I put it back together. I was just using it like normal. My thought is that its something to do with the programing, because there is no soft start feature, and the initial start up after power is switched off and back to on, the motor doesn't spin at all. Like there is no initial start up value stored to tell the motor what to do when the start button is pressed. But then again like I said, I didn't change anything, this just did it by itself.

Any Ideas? I downloaded the user manual for the display/control pad if you need it.

Thanks again for all your help.
Jeremy

 

Hey again Timescope. You ever get your modem fixed? Wondered if you could help me out on that last post of mine. No rush, just when ever. Thanks

 

Does anyone else have any insight on this issue?

 

Im confused, put which one? I got the transistor issue fixed, I was reffering to my post up above post 81

 

Hi diebog,

I'm back online after two weeks of living without the internet. I don't know if it was a coincidence but my phone software crashed on the same day the mobile phone network's internet also went down for more than a week.

I'll take a look at the schematics and the info in post #181. The user manual would be useful.

Did you check the output voltages of the power supply ?

The output voltages are on the right hand side of page 2 of the "Correct Baldor Schematic"

Connect the negative probe of the volt meter to the terminal marked GND and post the voltage readings of +15 I/O and +8_KEY
Connect the negative probe of the volt meter to the terminal marked GND _x3000 and post the voltage readings of V1_x3000, V2_x3000 and V3_x3000.

The picture of the Control circuit that you uploaded has a box marked "Lithium" which would be a backup battery. Check the voltage.

The brake and starting characteristics problems may be due to corrupted software. I have downloaded a manual for Baldor Smart Motors and a "Reset to factory settings" item is available in the menu. See if you can find it in the manual for your motor under "Troubleshooting".

Timescope

 

That sux! Good to have you back! .......and I didnt check the voltage of the power supply , are you referring to the dc or ac coming in? The motor starts, but has no slow start like it used to. It just ramps up within a second. Everything but the brake cut and slow start seem to be working fine.

I didnt get a user manual with the motor, but ill try to track one down. What are you looking for exactly? Just so I get the right one. I did download the user guide for the controller, but its not unit specific. Ill send you the link in a bit.

 

Hi diebog,

I got the manual from this link.

Timescope

 

Ya thats the one I found too.

 

The reset procedure is on page 57

 

Reset huh? But I didn't change anything to need to be reset. It was working fine once we fixed it and got it back together and then it stated acting up. Ill take a look at the reset procedure and see if it helps. Thanks again timescope

Jeremy

 

Please remember to check all the voltages. I'll check in again later.

Timescope

 

Im sorry timescope, but there are different voltages AC and DC and I just don't want to have a repete like the last time. I know there is 120 or so AC coming in, but don't know what others should be. In a previous post you had said the DC was around "XXXX" but it measured different at the time. If I understood what im looking for I guess Id be more confident. I don't get how it turns on and runs threw the rpm like normal but could have an incorrect voltage somewhere. My thoughts are that it wouldn't work at all.

 

Can you locate the diodes connected to the transformer : D11, D12, D13, D15 and D16 ?
That's where you should measure the voltages

I don't get how it turns on and runs threw the rpm like normal but could have an incorrect voltage somewhere. My thoughts are that it wouldn't work at all

Different parts of the circuit use different voltages. If a voltage is missing or incorrect, some parts of the circuit may still work. Circuits operated at elevated voltages may work for some time then fail. It is important that you verify that the voltages are correct.

Timescope

 

Hey timescope, so I took off the motor cover to test today and I have a question before I can read the voltages. Am I testing these diodes for ac or dc? I set meeter to both and get readings all over the board. A few of the diodes you said to test showed voltage on one side and not the other while some showed voltages on either end. So when testing should I have the negative lead on the negative or neutral coming in from supply, or should I be using the "D-" on the one end of the board that wires go out to the blue large capacitors?

I tested for DC voltage correctly this time and got 335vdc across DC= and DC-

 

Hi diebog,

These are the voltages you should measure. Locate the test points by the component part numbers on the schematic.

The output voltages are on the right hand side of page 2 of the "Correct Baldor Schematic"

Connect the negative probe of the volt meter to the terminal marked GND and post the voltage readings of +15 I/O and +8_KEY
Connect the negative probe of the volt meter to the terminal marked GND _x3000 and post the voltage readings of V1_x3000, V2_x3000 and V3_x3000.

Timescope.

 

Ok, these tests were done with with my Fluke DMM, here are my findings. Hopefully I tested at the correct locations.



Black arrow is what I used for (GND_X3000) Red arrow I used to test (V2-X3000) Reading was neg-8.4 Yellow arrow I used to test (V3-X3000) Reading was also neg -6.3. I double checked this too.




Blue Arrow (+15_I/O) Reading was 17.6 Orange Arrow (+8_KEY) reading was 10.1 Black Arrow (GND)

 

I used to test (V2-X3000) Reading was neg-8.4

This should be positive 9v.The TPs are the green circular pads immediately below C3 ,C5 and C4. Check that the soldered connection that the red arrow points to is connected to TP 16. I can not see the details clearly.

 

Ya the soldered connection for red arrow is tp16. Both tp 16 and tp 18 shows a negative voltage when the black lead(neg) is on tp17 pad. I just took the point of the test lead and scratched off a very small part of the paint. Should I do the same on the pads below C3, C5 & C4? Instead of testing where I did?

 

I had a short time out.

Yes, use the test point. Can you locate C21 and C22?

Timescope

 

By test point, are you referring to the pads? I'm not familiar with these called test points. Also what would you like me to do with C21 and C22? So what is causing the readings of those 2 to be negative when it should read positive.

Also had a question about what "+15_I/O" means.