I'm back. Firefox crashed , no, a train wreck as I had 125 tabs open. I've got everything back. Switched to IE10.

This implies that U2 is defective. Remove it using the same method and test it out of circuit.

Timescope

 

So I removed it and tested it, same thing. Continuity when battery is dissconnected and when the battery is connected it goes up to 148mv and again when removed it goes back to "OL"

 

Also had a small problem removing it, I think I can fix it but figured id ask if you knew any tricks or tips you can give me.

I applied solder to 4 terminals on one side and when solder melted I gently pried it up half way and then did the other side and worked it up till it came out. But a few of the small little copper rings that dont connect to anything came up with it. I dont know how they are normally attached glue of some sort? So is there a way to put these back on? I was thinking a little of cyanoacrylate under the ring or maybe some 5 min epoxy? I would think this happens frequently when working on pcb's so there has to be a good way to repair them.

 

So I removed it and tested it, same thing. Continuity when battery is dissconnected and when the battery is connected it goes up to 148mv and again when removed it goes back to "OL"

Is that continuity between pins 4 and 5 of U2 out of circuit with the battery disconnected ?

"OL" means there is no continuity so please explain the last line in more detail.

Timescope

 

Yes OL between pins 4 and 5 of U2 with battery disconnected and still using the diode test. Oh I didnt realize OL was no continuity. Sorry my fault. Im a beginner

 

I really screwed up, So guess I didn't need to remove u2. LOL Oh well live and learn

 

But a few of the small little copper rings that dont connect to anything came up with it

That's bad news. Each pin of the UCC2804 is connected and some of the connections go through the board to the other side. The through board connections are called vias.

Which pins are affected ? A picture would help. Don't worry, it's fixable.

Timescope

 

I was thinking a little of cyanoacrylate under the ring or maybe some 5 min epoxy?

No. Do not try to fix them back.

Timescope

 

Its the ones that dont have circuitry going to or from them. They are just a teeny tiny flat round piece of copper that I guess helps hold the component to the board so its not relying on the other side thats connected to the circuit. IS there a "how to" or something on fixing these? I have had traces lift up in the past and would love to know how to address these in the future. You have to be so so careful and even being careful, sometimes it happens.

So is U2 good then? I was giving you a reverse reading. I thought OL stood for "overload" which meant continuity. So if we rewind back to the first test, was that incorrect too?

When everything was soldered to the board, when I would connect the test leads to pin 4 and pin 5, and the meeter was on set to diode test, the "OL" would go away and then it displayed .600 mv or the other tester .985mv. Then when battery was connected it would lower down to .147.

 

No. Do not try to fix them back.

Timescope

Oh so just leave them off? How do I fix them?

 

Special heat resistant adhesive is used to bond the copper to the circuit board. The adhesives you mentioned will come unstuck when you try to solder them.

Wire is usually used to repair damaged pcb traces.

The pads that hold the ic are rectangular so a "ring" would be a via.

Some circuit boards are multi-layer so a via may appear not to go anywhere but is connected to a layer of circuit inside the board.

Timescope

 

Is the heat resistant epoxy special for electronics. Do you know the name of it or a good place to get it? Would be good to have for future problems

 

Leave the connections for now and let's check the UCC2804 out of circuit. Connect the negative probe of your diode test meter to pin 1 and the positive probe to pin 5.

What reading do you get ?

Timescope

 

Oh and where am I with U2? Do I need to order one? Or is it good because I was reading tests wrong?

 

Is the heat resistant epoxy special for electronics. Do you know the name of it or a good place to get it? Would be good to have for future problems

Check you local hardware store. I have used slow-setting epoxy resin to repair pcbs,
the type that takes 24 hours to cure.

Do a Google search for high temperature adhesives.

Timescope

 

Oh and where am I with U2? Do I need to order one? Or is it good because I was reading tests wrong?

It is good if it shows "OL" without the battery and reads mV with the battery connected.

Timescope

 

It is a 3N100E - TMOS POWER FET 3.0 AMPERES 1000 VOLTS

 

Check you local hardware store. I have used slow-setting epoxy resin to repair pcbs,
the type that takes 24 hours to cure.

Do a Google search for high temperature adhesives.

Timescope

Ya i just went to hardware store and JB weld is a 24 hour epoxy that can handle 3 or 400 deg F

I also found some thin copper tape that has adhesive on one side and is used to keep snails/bugs from entering a area. I was getting some ant spray and saw it in that section. Figured I could cut out a small piece and punch a hole in it and give it another solder pad.

So if U2 was good, what does that mean? U3 is bad and replace with the new one I bought? When it was in the board and the test leads were connected using the diode setting, it would show small voltage and would lower like I said when battery was attached.

 

Leave the connections for now and let's check the UCC2804 out of circuit. Connect the negative probe of your diode test meter to pin 1 and the positive probe to pin 5.

What reading do you get ?

This will verify that the UCC2804 is defective.

Timescope

 

Sorry I didn't see you had posted that. I got 684mv