So those pics were clear enough to tell what is what? "A" and "C" are you asking me a question, or is it just a guess? And see if it matches what data sheet? Are you referring to this one? If so I believe it does. Am I correct? The RS one I bought is also the same.

 

On page 10 of the datasheet, it looks like it matches, the tab on top being the Drain.

The views from the bottom swap A and C, so that could be the replacement part. I'd suggest getting one from Mouser or Digi-Key rather than radio shack. The surface mount version is built so the PC Board is the heat sink for the device, the same method doesn't work so well for through hole parts.

 

Oh, I didnt think about the board being the heat sink. That makes sense. So do you reccomend ordering the MTV10N100E, or the MTB3N100E? There were others on that first list you posted too. The MTV10N100E was sugg by t06afre and you had posted the MTB3N100E data sheet that we were looking at. I just want to make sure I have the right part number so I order the right part as one letter wrong could be something entirely different. There was also talk about 1 or 3 amp, is it better in this case to go with the 3? Sense shipping for one is the same for 10, if you could let me know any other ones that may also work, I will by them too. I know I only need one, but dont want to put in another order if I need a different one. So I am kinda hoping you could tell me what the best ones or one to get is. Thanks again for helping me.

 

And I also looked on Digikey and Mouser and both those P/N's don't show up in their system. Any sugg?

 

When I spoke to the Digikey tech guy and showed him the pics, he came up with this one. But said it was not a direct replacement, just the closes he could come up with. What do you think about this one? Here is the data sheet looks like its rated at 15 amps too. Is that allot for this application? Can it hurt to go big?
http://ixapps.ixys.com/DataSheet/DS100353(IXFH-FT15N100Q3).pdf

 

The RDSon can be degraded with a higher current device, but I've not had many problems with extra headroom. That MOSFET has a 1Ω RDSon, which is a bit high, but lower than the ones we posted with similar part number, so it should be good to go.

Just to be sure,

What size is the motor being driven?
How many watts or volts at what current(amps)?
That information should be on the system or motor itself somewhere.

 

The motor is a 1hp motor, here is the tag

 

I'm seeing that as 230V 1A, 3500rpm, is that correct?

 

Ya the tag says 230v but the place I got it from has it to run on 120 v. I didn't understand that when I saw it. Before I "F"d it up it worked on 120v. It's a variable speed motor whit a keypad that has a display and controls speed and others perimeters. The label that was on the motor tag is gone that I.D the numbers is gone. Rpm is 200-3500, 60 hz, and yea I think that 1.0 was amps. Here is a pic of the same motor but a 2hp. Just showing you the tag label that should be on mine

 

I'm on my phone and can't blow the pic large enough to read. But I was able to on my home computer.

 

Here is he controller I have

Some more motors with tags like mine:

 

Those bottom two are 3 phase motors, is yours single phase or 3 phase?

 

That's what's weird, mine is setup and runs as a single. But there is a "3" in the phase spot on the tag. I'm not be one that set it up to run on 120. Another outfit did for another price of equipment that I had. I salvaged the working motor off it.

 

Nevermind, I am confusing tags, mine doesn't have anything there, but runs single phase anyhow.

 

Here is my exact model motor.

 

The one suggested by Digi-Key should be a good replacement then. Be sure to get in the "short tab" package so the heat sink/drain can be soldered to the board.

 

Will do, thanks for all your help. I hope some day to know more about these type of things.

 

Any sugg of a good place to learn more online?

 

A good place to start is the AAC E-Book, accessible through the bar at the top of the page. Start with Vol. 1 DC, and continue through.

Once you have that absorbed, look through threads here on topics you are interested in, post parts you don't understand on this forum, etc.

 

Ok, so the new Transistor came in today and I soldered it on and put board back in motor to see if it works, but sad to say nothing. I don't see any other components on the board that look fried or blown, im guessing things can still fail although no visible.

I am still working on getting a schematic from Baldor, but the gal helping me keeps sending me the wrong ones. My next question is, from the pics I took, is there any way I can start testing to find the problem?

Maybe it will help if I tell you what I was doing when I caused this problem in the first place. I just realized the new tester I had been using, I had the dial set on contitunity instead of volts when I was trying to find a 9v source for something else. I know I know, bone head move! but it was one of those do now think about it later deals. So I had the black lead of tester on ground from the power source chord, and the red lead I had touched the furthest in leg (Yellow "C") when I herd a "pop" and spark/light come from that resistor on the back side of the board that blew. I replaced that with a digikey equivalent as well as the larger one next to it. (R18)

With it plugged in to power, I tested for voltage (set on correct setting) at source and the gate and there was the same voltage at each location. So Im guessing the transistor is working correctly and letting current flow threw, correct me if I am wrong. So the problem may be further down the circuit I am thinking. If there is any sugg you have as far as any type of testing I can do, I sure would appreciate it. I know its hard to do without a schematic, but hoping maybe there are a few other things I could check based on how I caused it to malfunction.