That was not your claim in the other thread. Your claim was a spontaneous explosion of the acetylene in a cup. No mention of fire or spark or any other source of ignition. That is why I called you out, We use to put oxy/acet from a torch into a balloon and put it in a paper bag and light the bag to do the same thing.

NO!! I never intended to imply that it would explode without some provocation, but only that it will indeed explode without any compression, or needing to be enclosed.

 

Yet You MUST know, indeed little part of HHO indeed alters the burning efficiency in the strok, thus the gasoline consumption decreases by some 3...5 or maximum maximorum 10 % but never more. Yet the price for it is far higher temperature in cylinders (i.e. lifetyme of valves and gaskets drastically fall down) and what EPA will rate - the nitric oxides sum will be tens or even hundreds of times higher than normal driving. Plus, what will tell the insurance, that Your account will feel immediately, and probably the CSDD (or how You call Your automobile directorate) may push You a traffic ban at nearest yearly technical examination. However guessing that Your car is enormously old and cheap, just a rust mountain other-how why to risk) say 1000 USD, then driving so damn much like 20 000 km annually You shall economy 10%*5 litre per 100 km*1.40 $ per litre* 20 000/100 hundreds of km=1400 $ per year. If the car life will decrease to just 2 years (oh, never so short), the win will be 3K$ or rather not bad. However I believe You Americans have bit another economics, Your gasoline is hard cheaper as I gave figure from today at me and cars are much cheaper as well. Then the win will be much smaller.

Really, what we need is a description of what the condition is when you want to switch this thing on. Is the ignition switch in the off, run, or start position? That matters a lot. Is this for an attempt to create hydrogen as a fuel for the engine? Are you hoping to create enough hydrogen and oxygen to run the engine? Or is the hydrogen generator for some other purpose.
I am asking this because it takes more power than the engine can produce to electolyze enough water to produce enough hydrogen to run the engine. All claims of anything else are lies. So save yourself a lot of work and know that it does not work that way.

Really, what we need is a description of what the condition is when you want to switch this thing on. Is the ignition switch in the off, run, or start position? That matters a lot. Is this for an attempt to create hydrogen as a fuel for the engine? Are you hoping to create enough hydrogen and oxygen to run the engine? Or is the hydrogen generator for some other purpose.
I am asking this because it takes more power than the engine can produce to electolyze enough water to produce enough hydrogen to run the engine. All claims of anything else are lies. So save yourself a lot of work and know that it does not work that way.

my goal was to put a 55 chevy pickup on an 02 sport utility 4x4 and still get 20 mpg.all i have to do is get the over flow bucket and washer bucket up in brackets and hook wire horness back up.but still think i was falling short on the good fuel mileage.you got me talked out of it due to extra heat on the old motor.but still would like to see that circuit didnt want it to turn on till engine is running and didnt want to forget to turn it off

 

my goal was to put a 55 chevy pickup on an 02 sport utility 4x4 and still get 20 mpg.all i have to do is get the over flow bucket and washer bucket up in brackets and hook wire horness back up.but still think i was falling short on the good fuel mileage.you got me talked out of it due to extra heat on the old motor.but still would like to see that circuit didnt want it to turn on till engine is running and didnt want to forget to turn it off

im green in the electronic world but still sounds like a simple gate driving me nuts my brain wont let go of it

 

my goal was to put a 55 chevy pickup on an 02 sport utility 4x4 and still get 20 mpg.all i have to do is get the over flow bucket and washer bucket up in brackets and hook wire horness back up.but still think i was falling short on the good fuel mileage.you got me talked out of it due to extra heat on the old motor.but still would like to see that circuit didnt want it to turn on till engine is running and didnt want to forget to turn it off

Is that supposed to be a joke? I have no idea what you are saying, even though a buddy and I rebuilt a 55 Chevy in the early 60's. Maybe some of the people here who do understand will explain. Good luck.

 

my goal was to put a 55 chevy pickup on an 02 sport utility 4x4 and still get 20 mpg.all i have to do is get the over flow bucket and washer bucket up in brackets and hook wire horness back up.but still think i was falling short on the good fuel mileage.you got me talked out of it due to extra heat on the old motor.but still would like to see that circuit didnt want it to turn on till engine is running and didnt want to forget to turn it off

Ok, that is more reasonable. I was thinking about an engine running only on the hydrogen gas mix. Never considered the possibility of just a bit. Sounds a bit like nitrous-oxide boosting. That gives a large boost.

 

my goal was to put a 55 chevy pickup on an 02 sport utility 4x4 and still get 20 mpg.all i have to do is get the over flow bucket and washer bucket up in brackets and hook wire horness back up.but still think i was falling short on the good fuel mileage.you got me talked out of it due to extra heat on the old motor.but still would like to see that circuit didnt want it to turn on till engine is running and didnt want to forget to turn it off

So if I understand you your putting the '55 body on a '02 chassis? Why do you think that would change the gas mileage??? The body has nothing at all to do with mileage in this case, the '55 body may even weigh less giving you better mileage.

Have no idea what your over flow bucket and washer bucket have to do with a body/chassis swap.

 

Sounds a bit like nitrous-oxide boosting. That gives a large boost.

Wrong again. He want's better mileage. Nitrous has to have more gasoline added to the mixture when it's in use. Read some articles on nitrous use.

 

is evrybody to smart to understand

 

That was not your claim in the other thread. Your claim was a spontaneous explosion of the acetylene in a cup. No mention of fire or spark or any other source of ignition. That is why I called you out, We use to put oxy/acet from a torch into a balloon and put it in a paper bag and light the bag to do the same thing.

OK, sorry I was not clear in my statement. My point was simply that some gases will be explosive without compression, not that they will explode without some trigger.

 

is evrybody to smart to understand

Are you unable to explain what you want to do? There is obvious confusion by everyone here who has tried to contribute. Yet, if you reply at all, it seems only to add more confusion or insult.

 

already built 4 prototypes of hydro gen it works i just dont want it on without the engine consuming what it generates.the question was about a way to hook it up

 

building hydrogen gen for my old pick up need a circuit that will only turn on with manual switch but shut down with ignition.

Putting your original question together with post #51, it seems you are trying to keep the engine running with the hydrogen that is generated in a compression-combustion mode with the ignition off.

Basically, you want a double throw switch. A double pole double throw (DPDT) or single pole double throw (SPDT) switch will do that. Put power (presumably battery power) to the center contact or center pair of contacts. Then in one position, power goes to the hydrogen generator and in the other position to ignition. For more detail, you need to provide a diagram of how the ignition and hydrogen generator are wired.

 

it was my understanding hydrogen is pretty safe till you try to store it.so i didnt want the HG on till the motor was running and couldnt forget to turn it off or still listen to the radio without engine running and the gen. not to come on with with key.Wouldnt be so bad if i forgot to turn it on and i know i would forget to turn it off

 

If you only want the HG powered when the engine is running then why not power it from the alternator output?

 

thats what my engineer son in law said but the batt. the starter and the alt. are tied together in a junction block for the alt. to power the truck when the key is on so is 12v

 

thats what my engineer son in law said but the batt. the starter and the alt. are tied together in a junction block for the alt. to power the truck when the key is on so is 12v

Also, probably it is better to wait until the engine has warmed up a bit before switching on that additive. So how about using an oil pressure switch arrangement like they use for electric fuel pumps? Just use the same pressure switch and leave out the part that runs the fuel pump while cranking the engine. The requirements are similar and the setup has been proven to meet all safety standards.

 

if i dont find a simple electrical solution im going to use that

 

OK, here is a quick attempt at what you want. The power relay starts out open. With the ignition turn on, when the start PB is depressed Q2 turns on which also turns on Q1. Q1 actuates the relay. With the relay activated, Q2 is held on by the current through R2. When the ignition is turned off, drive is lost to the relay and it drops out. C1 ensures that Q2 stays off for a bit when the ignition is first actuated. D2 blocks a sneak current path via forward biased B-C junctions.

 

building hydrogen gen for my old pick up need a curcuit that will only turn on with manual switch but shut down with ignition.

Brzrkr

 

if i dont find a simple electrical solution im going to use that

would start pb be a push button?i do like that circuit.