good to know... maybe fillable balls like for vending gum machines or Christmas ornaments would do. many are transparent so light paint coat could fix it. and using it as split form (two hemispheres) would double number of parts.

 

I suggest looking at the assorted LED tree lights at the discount stored. I think that I have seen ball shaped lights at least once. Another possible choice would be some of the kinds of translucent plastic tube, either rigid or flexible. That could also be weather resistant for outside use. But making he wires non-intrusive would take some serious effort. A last resort would be to check with an actual outdoor sign manufacturer. In fact, if somebody comes up with a really excellent system, a sign company might be interested.

 

It seems to me that it will actually require more than simply an A, B, C sequence, but more like an A+B, B+C, C+D, D+E, EF, F+A sort of sequence, I think that is closer to how the MARQUEE lights ran.

on a 3-channel unit that is just matter of inverting driving signals. can be done with XORs like below.
the one i posed in #27 does that. link has a video that shows it after 2'15".

 

The same scheme, but extended to two decades, and adding OR gates, can drive four or five phases of lights and more closely imitate the old marquee arrangements. A bit of overlap will enhance the effect, I think. At least it did with the old systems.

 

good to know... maybe fillable balls like for vending gum machines or Christmas ornaments would do. many are transparent so light paint coat could fix it. and using it as split form (two hemispheres) would double number of parts.

Something like this painted on the inside might work pretty well. I 3D printed bases that looked like sockets and that part looked good.

 

The overlap is accomplished by the "ghosting" effect when the lights turn off.
Making it overly complicated IMHO by changing the sequence from ABC.

 

The overlap is accomplished by the "ghosting" effect when the lights turn off.
Making it overly complicated IMHO by changing the sequence from ABC.

Persistence of vision is how the effect operates anyway. Incandescents can enhance that with their longer decay time, but simply fading the channel to off could do the same thing if one was troubled by the rapid decay of LEDs—though it seems unnecessary.

 

The overlap is accomplished by the "ghosting" effect when the lights turn off.
Making it overly complicated IMHO by changing the sequence from ABC.

OK, I’l buy that.

 

I suggest assembling something cheap to verify that it actually produces the effect the TS is seeking. My advice is based on rather bitter experience, which is that wanting something to work, and thinking that it will work, is not always enough to make it work the way you want it to work. What I mean is that just because it does what it is designed to do does not mean that it does what you wanted it to do.

 

Practical setup for a demo.

Solid State Relays
EDIT: Increased DC supply voltage to 9 volts.

 

Practical setup for a demo.
View attachment 359877
Solid State Relays

Unless the logic is operating on 15 volts, it is unlikely that the SSRs will switch on , since at 5 volts the 4017 will not deliver even 2 milliamps. BUT there is a simple work-around. Use a 4049 hex buffer, which is able to sink a lot more current, and connect to the negative input terminal of those SSRs, and supply the +5 volts to the + inputs of the SSRs.. The 4049 is able to sink much more current than it can source, but for reliable operation you need to power the CMOS with 10 or 12 volts DC.
OF COURSE, if those SSRs are made for standard CMOS applications, that is a different story.

 

Unless the logic is operating on 15 volts, it is unlikely that the SSRs will switch on , since at 5 volts the 4017 will not deliver even 2 milliamps.

Actually the 4017 is capable of delivering 5ma when loaded to a 3 volt output, measured on the breadboard.
Agree it's marginal, a 9 volt supply is more then adequate.
Post #50 edited to show 9 volt supply.

 

Careful with that IH crawler. My farmer uncles had an IH crawler from that era that would be started on gas and after a warmup be switched over to diesel fuel. THAT changeover is the mystery extra lever towards the right side.

Mine is more simple—gasoline only. And naturally when it becomes mine I discover how it’s been “hacked” (the “whatever it takes to make it work” thing, which I am guilty of at times lol) And this 6v positive ground thing…magneto AND outboard coil…arrrgggg

 

Look at the picture in post #19. That is close to what you had 50 years ago. Many people would use a computer, but I know you understand how a mechanical switch works. I also have a IH tractor. Think about how a tractor distributor works. In the case of post #19 there are 6 switches, and 6 wheels that the switches follow. Probably each wheel is notched so the switch is closed 50% of the time and open 50%. The wheels are offset 1/6 of a turn.
Another way is to have only one wheel and place the 6 switches evenly around the wheel.
I know that electronics is hard to learn. That is why a mechanical system might be easy for you. Just like the spark and valves work in your IH.

Excellent! Yes my mind tends to lean back into “mechanical” ways of doing things, but I also know how well electronics have made tasks so much easier! I’m constantly amazed at what I discover. It’s just that as I’ve aged I can’t seem to grasp new things as easily as I did in years past. It’s so aggravating when I can’t calm my mind down and focus on new things, and I so wish it wasn’t that way…hell, even my hands and fingers—I used to do intricate detail work with fingers, and now the simple task of starting some small screws ends up many times failing, usually the screw falling to where I have to become a circus contortionist to get down on the ground AND get back up! Ahhh the golden years. But I’m not quitting…thanks for looking for that “middle ground” for me.

 

I suggest looking at the assorted LED tree lights at the discount stored. I think that I have seen ball shaped lights at least once. Another possible choice would be some of the kinds of translucent plastic tube, either rigid or flexible. That could also be weather resistant for outside use. But making he wires non-intrusive would take some serious effort. A last resort would be to check with an actual outdoor sign manufacturer. In fact, if somebody comes up with a really excellent system, a sign company might be interested.

THAT was my original thought when it first hit me. And then thought that using the consumer grade might not be tough enough to withstand a commercial operation. I have several sets of the clear, round bulbs with the LED inside, but the elements outside manage to cause problems in the sockets of some. I’ve been thinking if the older controllers could be found (not the new models that have multiple patterns, but just the single chasing one) and running new wires with a better quality socket, then I feel that might actually work. From a very basic attempt.
*I've also looked into real sign companies but way too expensive for this small town business. Sadly.
But the ideas you guys are presenting I’m sure are so much better—I just need to settle down some and try to reteach my brain patience and comprehension. Again, I can’t thank you folks enough for trying to help. I’m looking forward to trying some of these ideas. (I’ll pick up a couple of fire extinguishers )

 

One good choice will be to check with the product departments of some of the LED manufacturers. NOT AMAZON!!
Consider that tghe sign companies get them from somewhere, and they will not use JUNK.

 

One good choice will be to check with the product departments of some of the LED manufacturers. NOT AMAZON!!
Consider that tghe sign companies get them from somewhere, and they will not use JUNK.

It just for a low cost demo.
Referencing your post #49.

 

It just for a low cost demo.
Referencing your post #49.

INVESTIGATING does not need to include purchasing. And inspirations often come from observations of what others have done that works.

 

You guys are amazing. I appreciate how when one asks about how to do something, or needs answers, all of you are quick to respond and offer a wealth of knowledge.
Now, for this potential project, I did finally get in touch with the managers of the theater, and proposed my idea. For several months now they have been working with a committee discussing how to move forward, but it doesn’t seem to me they’re in any hurry. They did acknowledge that the previous awning/marquee isn’t the answer because of durability concerns. Plus in my opinion, I don’t believe they have the nostalgia emotion pulling at them like those of my age can appreciate. They said they’ll consider my idea as well…so we shall see. We tried. Again, I thank you for pitching in.

 

This item popped up on my phone last night…interesting.