I hope the charger was tested with a healthy battery before disassemblingBattery chargers want permission from the battery pack to turn on. That is from those extra contact pins telling a temperature signal, a voltage signature, an interlock, overdischarged condition, matching pack... whatever the manufacturer decided to implement.
If any means to try the battery in other charger, do it to check if same behavior. How long ago was that battery functional ? What voltage did you measure now ?
Yes, battery is good, the charger should have green LED when no battery connected and red & green while charging, this charger has no LED's lit at all, at anytime with battery connected or not.I hope the charger was tested with a healthy battery before disassembling
Done test in diode mode, middle pin black, left & right pin red, 0.329V both sides.Did you check the double diode D10 on the heatsink?
How should I go about testing those to make sure there good and I check them the right way? What mode should I use? and what lead orientation, one way or both? What results should I expect for a bad diode?Did you check the secondary diodes for short circuit ?
In diode mode I get 0.000V both ways on the F2, 00.08 ohms both ways??There is also F2 in the lower part of your original PCB photo within the heatsink area.
Yes, battery is good, the charger should have green LED when no battery connected and red & green while charging, this charger has no LED's lit at all, at anytime with battery connected or not.
Done test in diode mode, middle pin black, left & right pin red, 0.329V both sides.
Should I check this with a different lead orientation or mode?? or is (middle pin black, left & right pin red) all I have to check on that?
How should I go about testing those to make sure there good and I check them the right way? What mode should I use? and what lead orientation, one way or both? What results should I expect for a bad diode?
In diode mode I get 0.000V both ways on the F2, 00.08 ohms both ways??
Not sure I follow what im supposed to check there?? As I said at the first post "I haven't any experience testing PCB's & have limited knowledge of what the components do & how they interact with each other" " so bear with me.If it is not possible to obtain the circuit diagram, this complicates the situation a little bit, at least.
1.As I said, look at the IC datasheet.Datasheet is the main document, and can be followed if we do not have the circuit diagram. Found the transformer, it's tied to the "C" and "C" pins of the IC. Found the capacitor Co and measure the voltage on it.The voltage should be several volts, non-milivolts.
2.Take a sheet of paper and draw those components that are connected to the power transistor gate. This way you will understand how the pulsating voltage to the power mosfet gate is generated


As you said, the SMD style chip is marked as " OB2512NJP " , so forget and don't worry about a SMD codebook. Proceed with papers for OB2512NJP .Not sure I follow what im supposed to check there?? As I said at the first post "I haven't any experience testing PCB's & have limited knowledge of what the components do & how they interact with each other" " so bear with me.
I dont follow what part im supposed to be checking & the part about " look at the IC datasheet.Datasheet as it is in SMD style, so it only has a few symbols on it" where as mine has "OB2512NJP" on it?? So not sure what im looking for there?
I found these if there of any help? but there is 2 revisions of this board so im not sure which ones these are from?
View attachment 325001
View attachment 325002
Still need some info on how to go about checking those "secondary diodes for short circuit"Did you check the secondary diodes for short circuit ?
Soder the diode out of the board and check again . Note polarity . If 0V again, replace it.I have tested the 13 secondary diodes in "diode mode",
(black to - & red to +) all showed between 0.6 to 0.7, except ZD4 was 0.56.
In reverse, only D15 & ZD2 showed OL.
All others were between 1.3 & 2.9.
D9 is 0.000V both ways