BC548 Manufacturer is Micro-Electronics
BC548 Manufacturer is Micro-Electronics
The Darlington is now obsolete - replacing with a MOSFET would be the way to go, but there doesn't appear to be an upgrade path?Here are power Darlington BJT pin assignments
The connector at lower right is chopped off. I need to be able to trace where each wire enters the connector
Thank you.BC548 Manufacturer is Micro-Electronics
I can try in the morning with some natural light. They are quite faded though, and difficult to see.Can you post a better (non-blurry) shot of this?
The Darlington can be replaced with a different manufacture if you want but I would recommend using mosfets.The Darlington is now obsolete - replacing with a MOSFET would be the way to go, but there doesn't appear to be an upgrade path?
OK...I suggest using some PCB cleaner spray (preferred) or rubbing alcohol and clean the boards.I can try in the morning with some natural light. They are quite faded though, and difficult to see.
Can you translate that?The mosfets would be in a different package.
The existing MJ2501 Darlington BJTs are in a TO-3 case. Mosfets don't usually come in that style case.Can you translate that?
Ordered - will be here on the 'morrow.OK...I suggest using some PCB cleaner spray
I put LED on the schematic as I couldn't find anything to simulate the actual rear lamps - although it would probably be a nice feature to add LEDs to the board. The existing unit powers ordinary incandescent bulbs so needs to handle 10 amps or more per line out.Also, Can you describe anything about the LED lighting patterns this produced?
Ah-ha - so the metal container is a heat-sink! I wondered why it was separate to the PCB - is there a way to add a heatsink to the board to neaten it all up? I know that processors use heat sinks and thermal paste, but it didn't dawn on me that a transistor would - learning all the time.So the mounting of the mosfets to the heatsink would be different footprint.
Yes...that metal plate is heat sink. The transistors get hot, so with them mounted to the heat sink, with a thermally conductive paste, the heat is transferred to the heat sink and dissipated. The size of the heat sink can reduced if the right Mosfet is chosen.Ah-ha - so the metal container is a heat-sink! I wondered why it was separate to the PCB - is there a way to add a heatsink to the board to neaten it all up? I know that processors use heat sinks and thermal paste, but it didn't dawn on me that a transistor would - learning all the time.
Adding LED indicators to the board is no problem.I put LED on the schematic as I couldn't find anything to simulate the actual rear lamps - although it would probably be a nice feature to add LEDs to the board. The existing unit powers ordinary incandescent bulbs so needs to handle 10 amps or more per line out.
Not sure of the pattern (not my unit) so we are going to set up a video either on a vehicle or with bulb holders/bulbs and a car battery.
1. Only very new vehicles have LEDs as original - aftermarket ones have resistors to emulate the original lamps, so in either case it will need to handle the output.So...is your intent to retain the original functionality of driving incandescent automotive lamps?
Do you mean it needs to drive either LED's or Incandescent lamps?1. Only very new vehicles have LEDs as original - aftermarket ones have resistors to emulate the original lamps, so in either case it will need to handle the output.
I don't understand. Please clarify.2. When the unit is not switched on the lights will still work as intended.
Incandescent. I over complicated that answer.Do you mean it needs to drive either LED's or Incandescent lamps?
It will be inserted into the vehicles wiring.I don't understand. Please clarify.