Man you got lucky. Ive been hearing some horror stories of the estimated 300,000 flood cars hitting the market.

yeah I don't plan on buying any used vehicles any time soon

What's the off road buggy plan?? Transaxle crawler, rally car, transverse rear engine setup?

amphibious vehicle. Thought it would be ironic using a flood victim engine in a vehicle to rescue flood victims.

I had the idea after I couldn't rescue my friend from the flood. I tried every road between my house and his house and all were flooded several feet under. I kept saying to myself "If I only had a boat..." but a boat wouldn't have gotten me there either. After I got past that water there was more land, and then more water. I identified a niche where there aren't any affordable (as in, <$100k) amphibious vehicles that work equally well on land or water. Some are boats with wheels that come out of the hull and run slower than 2-legged cat on land. Others are offroad vehicles that happen to float, and if there's no current, you will eventually make it to the opposite shore. There's only a couple that haul balls on land and water, and among those, only one that I found that could be used as rescue vehicle to transport a half dozen people, and it costs >$500k. I proposed to my wealthiest friend that we go in together on this project and he seemed very excited about it. I bought this flood car and a boat to use as a donor hull, and when it was time for him to start putting his money where his mouth was, he conveniently lost interest. I theorize he's one of those people who lives larger than they really are, propped up by debt.

I have the engine and the hull but I need thousands of dollars worth of parts in order to take the next step. I don't have thousands of dollars.

P.S.
Looking for investors

 

Well I jinxed myself with the update. On the way in this morning it started flashing the O/D OFF light at me. Turned around and drove back home. Driving the gas guzzling yukon once again.

 

Well I jinxed myself with the update. On the way in this morning it started flashing the O/D OFF light at me. Turned around and drove back home. Driving the gas guzzling yukon once again.

Hmm. Any specific apparent code in the blinking? If not, you may just have a short/open in wiring for the OD override switch or transmission controls and the computer went into protection mode over it. Simply shutting the engine off and restarting it will clear it out.

I had the wiring for the OD cancel button on the shift lever for my 99 Ford F250 get into a pinch point under the dash that would make it flash the OD light and cause some pretty strange transmission activity that would mysteriously disappear if the engine was shut off and restarted.

If by chance that clears out the blinking indicator for a whole when driving , and it drives normally for a while before coming back, there is a fair chance it could be just a bad wire or bad connector someplace.

Just a guess at this point being I really had moderate doubts you would have gotten the 1000 mile out of it as is!

 

Well I jinxed myself with the update. On the way in this morning it started flashing the O/D OFF light at me.

Who has, "50 days" in the betting pool?

But seriously, the OD light might not be about the transmission. (TCM already said that.)
I just felt like making a joke at the moment.

Please check for pink foam on the dip stick. If it's clean, you have boiled off all the water.
I do hope your clutches don't flake off, and I don't care whether it's about being Kevlar, bronze, or just luck.
I've rebuilt at least a dozen automatic transmissions, and it's a lot of work. Not dreadfully expensive for a Master Rebuild kit and the Techtran service manual, but still a lot of work. I don't think an amateur can do a rebuild in one day. If you don't have the skills...you will be calculating whether the car is totaled.
With so many Texas cars flooded recently, I wouldn't even bet on finding a good transmission in a junk yard.

 

If the trans fluid looks and smells normal you are probably ok. Flashing indicator lights mean a fault is occurring at that time. Shut of the overdrive via the od on/off button and drive for a couple hundred miles.

 

If the trans fluid looks and smells normal you are probably ok. Flashing indicator lights mean a fault is occurring at that time. Shut of the overdrive via the od on/off button and drive for a couple hundred miles.

I didn't touch the car for a few days after that. I got in it one day just to go to the store and the O/D OFF light was not flashing anymore. I borrowed my friend's scan tool and the code is attached. He said it's the sensor which tells the car what gear it's in. I think maybe that sensor is corroded but I haven't checked it. I've been driving it 90mi/day for the past 2 weeks and no more flashy flashy.

 

I didn't touch the car for a few days after that. I got in it one day just to go to the store and the O/D OFF light was not flashing anymore. I borrowed my friend's scan tool and the code is attached. He said it's the sensor which tells the car what gear it's in. I think maybe that sensor is corroded but I haven't checked it. I've been driving it 90mi/day for the past 2 weeks and no more flashy flashy.

If it's an intermittent thing, it might as well mean that the main electric harness (or parts of it) has been compromised by moisture and is dying a slow death... I sincerely hope not, because that thing is like the vehicle's spinal chord, and completely replacing it is out of the question... and repairing it through splices and patches is a slow and uncomfortable process... good luck

 

Could the PCM be dying... maybe but probably not. I look at that PRNDL switch (Pronounced "prindle"). Most likely its the contacts. If the wires are dying a slow death as mentioned slice 154 (S154) is the first place Id look. Its in the big main harness above the passenger struck mount.

 

It's like I said earlier, clutch plates in modern transmissions are way better and more bullet proof than back in the old days.

I'd try just pulling and replugging the connector, to remove any corrosion that may have formed in it before changing the sensor. A shot of contact cleaner couldn't hurt when doing this.

 

Could the PCM be dying... maybe but probably not. I look at that PRNDL switch (Pronounced "prindle"). Most likely its the contacts. If the wires are dying a slow death as mentioned slice 154 (S154) is the first place Id look. Its in the big main harness above the passenger struck mount.

The PCM was the first thing I checked before I decided on getting the car. Water did not make it that high. All PCM connectors were clean. Though it was incredibly humid inside for a while. No telling what damage that might have done

 

The PCM was the first thing I checked before I decided on getting the car. Water did not make it that high. All PCM connectors were clean. Though it was incredibly humid inside for a while. No telling what damage that might have done

Humidity could reach the PCM, even if they were not submerged... on the other hand, do all the PCM connectors in the car have a seal gasket in them?

 

Humidity could reach the PCM, even if they were not submerged... on the other hand, do all the PCM connectors in the car have a seal gasket in them?

IIRC yes there was a rubber boot on them but I don't know to what degree they are "sealed" and I don't know if the module itself is sealed. In other cars I have taken apart the ECU and it is not sealed

 

I got in it one day just to go to the store and the O/D OFF light was not flashing anymore.

IIRC yes there was a rubber boot on them but I don't know to what degree they are "sealed"

My car goes nuts when I jack it up, run the engine, and look for that darn rumbling noise underneath...then it resets everything to, "correct" in a few blocks of normal driving.
The connector with soft plastic seals are way better than what we were used to in the 50's, 60's and 70's. Most of the seals in Fords are green and look like a soft, plastic bulge just before the hard plastic part of the connector.

 

I didn't touch the car for a few days after that. I got in it one day just to go to the store and the O/D OFF light was not flashing anymore. I borrowed my friend's scan tool and the code is attached. He said it's the sensor which tells the car what gear it's in. I think maybe that sensor is corroded but I haven't checked it. I've been driving it 90mi/day for the past 2 weeks and no more flashy flashy.

If you don't have any more problems I wouldn't worry about it. If it does it again let me know. Sometimes a low batter can be the culprit.

 

Sometimes a low battery can be the culprit.

Ford Explorers are famous for throwing random codes when the battery is on its last leg.
Not bad enough to fail to start, but enough internal impedance to fail to be a good filter for the alternator noise.
Nerds like us might try a big, fat capacitor on the battery terminals even though we know a new battery is in our very near future.