CHEAPER is not always the best option. Bringing a neutral along will allow powering accessory items from the same feed. then suddenly it is less costly than runniong a second circuit for the accessory items. Been there, done that, got the diploma too.From what I know of US power distribution, there was a general agreement or stipulation that all areas or the US would conform to 120/240 following a period after WWII.
In Canada, all provinces are 120/240.
I prefer to use coloured electrical tape at all termination points to mark any conductor that is used as a substitute for the proper colour.
In the case of a dedicated circuit as per the OP's table saw, it would be wiser to provide the dedicated 240v circuit without neutral, if not needed for the equipment it is feeding.
Also cheaper on cable, if it happens to be a lengthy run!
Good for you!got the diploma too.
Most stoves also include a few items, such as oven lights, top lights, solenoid valves, and clock timers. Often those items are powered between one line and neutral. So the neutral connection for a stove is important. even more on my HVAC system the blower motor runs on 120 volts as does the primary of the 24 volt transformer. The outside unit does run on 240.Good for you!
I always believe in high current 240v devices especially, deserve their own circuit.
My Stove, My HVAC, my Garage Furnace, My welder, my power saw, etc, etc.
Low power items are generally 120v, and can be accommodated from a 120v duplex plug.
The run length would be approximately 30 feet; and the outlet is going to be in the floor by the foot of the saw. Between the saw and the work table is where the plug will be, so I won't be tripping over a cord. Running a neutral may make 120V available at the work table for small hand held equipment like routers and sanders (etc). Also there will be a dust collection tube at the same location to extract sawdust. The dust collector will be in the far corner and will be powered by 110 (120) VAC. Other equipment will also be 110V. Only the table saw will be 220V.cheaper on cable, if it happens to be a lengthy run!
Yes, I'm aware of that. But if I use 20A I can continue to a 20A standard 120V outlet with 12 gauge wire without violating code.@Tonyr1084 The problem with taking a 120v outlet from one 240v side and neutral where 10g wiring and a 30a breaker is used, and you wire the outlet up using 14g, doing this is you most likely will contravine the code as it states you cannot use a smaller conductor that has a llesser rating than the breaker rating.
I'd rethink that one. If the saw is ever unplugged and wood working is still being done saw dust will get into the outlet. And I've found saw dust in some places I never thought it could get into over the years. And if there is ever a spill of water or broken pipe in the room, even with the saw plugged in it could be dangerous to you.the outlet is going to be in the floor by the foot of the saw.
I have used the surface mount outlet boxes with lids that snap shut when not in use for very dusty environments etc, but they don't prevent water entry however.I'd rethink that one. If the saw is ever unplugged and wood working is still being done saw dust will get into the outlet. And I've found saw dust in some places I never thought it could get into over the years.
Then I would use AWG 10 for 30 amp service. Matter of fact for shop use I would use AWG 10 / 3 Romex or similar where allowable and BX cable where the cable run can't be exposed. I see where this began with plugs and sockets and if it were me I would likely opt for a twist lock rather than standard blade type plug and socket. They are as easily had at home improvement stores as the standard blade types. Really your call. BX is also called Armorlite which is just a brand name.No water in the room. Maybe a water bottle at my desk, but that's a linear distance of close to 30 feet.
Expect the run to be not more than 30 feet.
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