Hi,
I am using following,

Crimping Tool:
Pro's Kit 608-384
Crimp Shells:
1) Molex Pico-Lock Crimp Terminal (28AWG to 24AWG)
2) Molex MicroBlade (30AWG to 24AWG)
Wire Size:
1) 26 AWG
2) 28 AWG

I tried to crimp all the possible combinations but each time the insulation crimp got more flattened so that crimp terminal could not get into its housing. And When I try to make the insulation crimp round enough to get into the housing (Using plier from sideways), it loses its grip on the insulation.

Can anyone suggest me where am I going wrong or what are the alternatives or the tips I can try (I don't want to spend money on Molex Crimping tool which is very expensive).

Thanks.

Following are the links for:
Crimping Tool:
Pro's Kit 608-384
https://vikiwat.com/en/crimping-pliers-608-384-pro-s-kit.html

Crimp Shells:
1) Molex Pico-Lock Crimp Terminal (28AWG to 24AWG)
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-c...3743D37383938333738267374613D3738393833373826

2) Molex MicroBlade (30AWG to 24AWG)
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-c...3743D36373036343038267374613D3637303634303826

 

Show an example of a bad crimp and describe your technique.

 

It's typically supposed to look like this (viewed from the wire entry end). If you're distorting it so much that it won't go into the connector body then your tool is not properly calibrated. I don't see any calibration wheels or screws shown in the picture. If it's manufactured to a precise crimping force and yours is over crimping either it's not being used properly or it's defective. Honestly, I don't see any reason why you shouldn't be seeing normal results. Those things are pretty much bullet proof and should crimp consistently for many years.

Pictures of what you're achieving would help in diagnosing the cause and offering a solution. Crimping is one area of electronics where I'm well versed. The picture below shows that the insulation support crimp doesn't necessarily need to pierce into the insulation, nor is it required to totally fill the area. The red represents the insulation and the yellow represents the copper wire. Black, of course is the crimp itself.

 

The picture below shows that the insulation support crimp doesn't necessarily need to pierce into the insulation,

When I worked a Delphi Packard, insulation wings that pierced the the insulation were a cause of a wire assembly to be rejected. Insulation wings are not to pierce it but supposed to support it, like a strain relief of sorts to the wire.

 

wings that pierced the the insulation were a cause of a wire assembly to be rejected.

Yes. Absolutely. Slight deformation is normal. Also, and I'm not going to draw a diagram, the insulation should end approximately half way between the insulation support and the bell-mouth of the wire crimp. Variance was allowed as long as you could see insulation at the support end or wire strands at the bell-mouth.

Bell mouth is a term for the entrance for where the wire enters the crimping zone.

 

I have an AMP crimper, but I did look at a possible replacement. A Hozan P-707. Prices are all over the map.


https://www.google.com/search?q=hoz...QsAQIWQ&biw=1212&bih=633#imgrc=4fhQvoPI6rjZNM:

I won;t even mention the AMP crimper because the distributer have the wrong picture. On the ebay one I got, i had to use valve grinding compound to loosen up the crimper. Many many years ago that crimper was like $18.00 USD. Now the price is nuts.

It's actually this http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/418/NG_SS_408-8620_C-116043.pdf tool but the pics are wrong on most distributor's sites.

I've crimped the connectors you have. The insulation crimp rounds the tabs. The wire crimp folds the tabs in on itself.

The tool you have sucked. That was my first attempt for a tool at home.