# I want to install a switch into this hot air gun, which one should I choose?

#### rambomhtri

Joined Nov 9, 2015
481
Hi, I bought this hot air gun a few months ago and I really love the quality of everything, elegant texture, nice buttons and settings, works fantastic... everything was way better than expected, except one little detail: whenever you turn it off with its ON/OFF button, it goes full crazy max fan speed, making a lot of noise, for 30 seconds straight, to cool down the nozzle.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ginour-Temperature-Stainless-Accessories-Stripping/dp/B08DHYQS28

It's automatic and there's nothing you can do about it, and I find it very, very, very annoying because the extra 30s you have to bear that sound, the fact that is automatic and you can't disable it, and the loud sound it makes. Sometimes I am working at quiet hours, or when someone is sleeping, or at night, silently tinkering minding my own reparations, and then I need the heat gun and I just avoid it, trying to find an alternative in my workbench.

I find this feature interesting, but only as a manual thing, not a mandatory feature that once you've turned it on, "well, too late, expect the Apollo 11 launch". So, the point is, I want to add a switch, install one inside the frame so it looks something like this:

I'd like it as small as possible (basically to be able to fit it inside, as a large one won't fit at all), but of course it must withstand the maximum 2000W. I would put it somewhere in the handle, where there's no heat at all.

These ones would be fine but they are massive and won't fit:

These are perfect for its size, but the rating is for 750W:

EDIT: I hoped I had not have to point the obvious, but here we go, I am well aware that the gun does this to cool down the nozzle, indeed that's in the very first paragraph. I just want to let it rest without such an annoying noise.

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#### shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
9,375
Do you understand it does that at shutdown so it won't burn you or your work bench?

#### panic mode

Joined Oct 10, 2011
2,135
...or itself.
without forced air, it may melt and cause malfunction and provide other risks

#### rambomhtri

Joined Nov 9, 2015
481
Do you understand it does that at shutdown so it won't burn you or your work bench?
I am really aware of its function, I just find it completely unnecessary and annoying, I am working all day with soldering irons and I don't need a bucket of ice to cool it down so I don't get burn. When I stop using the gun I know it's hot, and I let it rest, just like the dozen guns I have: glue, heat, solder, one for smartphones...

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#### Externet

Joined Nov 29, 2005
1,847
Read shortbus post again; then, is it that hard to unplug the gun ?

#### rambomhtri

Joined Nov 9, 2015
481
...or itself.
without forced air, it may melt and cause malfunction and provide other risks
What do you mean itself?

The gun stands 2000W, 600ºC (which I never use). If I disconnect it the temperature will simply go down slower, it wont' go up because there's no more energy.

#### panic mode

Joined Oct 10, 2011
2,135
well with hands busy it would be more practical to have a footswitch...

#### rambomhtri

Joined Nov 9, 2015
481
Read shortbus post again; then, is it that hard to unplug the gun ?
That's exactly what I am doing right now but it's so annoying, think that I use it for 30s, then turn it off, then need it again 40s later, then turn it on, etc... So a switch in the handle would be the perfect solution. Also, while trying to unplug it, notice the gun is still ON and working.

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#### rambomhtri

Joined Nov 9, 2015
481
well with hands busy it would be more practical to have a footswitch...
Ummm... no, hands are busy IN the gun, so a switch in the gun where my hand already is, is way better than having a cable hanging in the floor.

#### panic mode

Joined Oct 10, 2011
2,135
that gun is made of plastic. plastic cannot stand much heat. when gun is in use forced air circulation ensures that temperature does not reach some critical limit.

cutting power while gun is still hot means loss of forced air. depending on type of plastic different type of degradation can take place (melting, cracking...). that can lead to short circuits within the product or exposure of the parts of the circuit.

#### rambomhtri

Joined Nov 9, 2015
481
that gun is made of plastic. plastic cannot stand much heat. when gun is in use forced air circulation ensures that temperature does not reach some critical limit.

cutting power while gun is still hot means loss of forced air. depending on type of plastic different type of degradation can take place (melting, cracking...). that can lead to short circuits within the product or exposure of the parts of the circuit.

Sometimes this forum helps and users come to hit the problem directly, and other times I just feel there's a complot where only people come to try to think the impossible or find the tiniest excuse to prove that what you are trying to do is so wrong.

I can unplug the gun perfectly safe, my God. Nothing is gonna burn out or explode, my previous gun worked the same, looked half well made and half safe as this one and did not have this feature. Most heat guns of these type don't have my fancy buttons or screen, just an ON/OFF switch, with 2 different ON positions for low heat or max heat. No cool down feature, that's just my fancy gun, a simple OFF sudden power cut, no melting. Also 99.99% of guns are made of plastic because of the heat, if it was metal it would conduct the heat very easily causing a lot of problems to the user. And finally no, if you cut the power in these guns the plastic is not gonna melt "because the heat is not pushed out with a fan", the metal inside the gun gets cooled down very quickly on its own, and as I told you, most guns cut the power with the switch they have, because very few have my button design. Soldering irons don't have fans to cool them down, and the surface is so much less to push away the heat. So are glue guns.

#### crutschow

Joined Mar 14, 2008
29,818
So everything you said about the plastic melting and dozens of problems without air flow is simply false.
I see no good basis for that conclusion.
Has it occurred to you that the ones that don't leave the fan on, may not have any internal components sensitive to the high heat, while yours does?
It seems unlikely they would have added such an extra-cost function without a good reason.

But if you must turn it off, how about a wall-plug switch (example below)?
That way you won't inadvertently turn on the gun without the fan, which would likely have rapid and serious consequences.

#### MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
26,133
I have a couple of heat guns. This is what I do when I am finished using them.
I set it to the low setting and wait 10 seconds before turning it off.
Then I leave it out for awhile to let it cool down before putting it back in the box and storing it away.

If you want to leave your heat gun always plugged in, plug it into a switched power bar. Don't alter the heat gun.

#### Ya’akov

Joined Jan 27, 2019
5,670
I don't understand the bold paragraph. What do you mean that if I put a switch in the phase/hot cable and cut it, I won't turn off the heating element but only the fan?

Yeah, I put the slide as an example, knowing that it was too weak to stand the power (or at least not a guaranteed safe one) and also that the mechanism would be "bad" compared to the first one (rocker).

About the space, let me post some pics. I would need one that is half the size of your regular squared power strip switch. I have to disassemble the gun for the inside pics, but I am looking for something like this:

I guess I will have to cut a rectangle in each side of the structure, and I believe there was plenty of space to do so. If I want a switch with a light when it's on, would it be possible?
No, what I mean is that if you first turn it off with the controls provided by the manufacturer, then quickly hit the power so it doesn't scream at you, it will avoid switching the heating element since it will already be off.

As far as the light, yes but it would depend on the switch. If the switch's light was internally powered and switched, that is, when it was on it lit up and off it didn't it would be certain but if you need to include it in your wiring (albeit with smaller conductors) you may find space is and issue.

This one might work, but no light in it.