I’m attempting a DIY project on my boat. I’m attempting to install a 12v DC motor, 2 independent 2 wire foot switches and a 3 wire speed reducer for the motor. I originally used a dpdt switch for testing purposes and it worked great but motor was turning a little quick for purpose. I’m a HVAC tech so I have good basic knowledge of voltage and controls but I find it easier working from a printed diagram. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

I’m attempting a DIY project on my boat. I’m attempting to install a 12v DC motor, 2 independent 2 wire foot switches and a 3 wire speed reducer for the motor. I originally used a dpdt switch for testing purposes and it worked great but motor was turning a little quick for purpose. I’m a HVAC tech so I have good basic knowledge of voltage and controls but I find it easier working from a printed diagram. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Welcome to AAC!

I originally used a dpdt switch for testing purposes and it worked great but motor was turning a little quick for purpose.

It would have been helpful for you to include the wiring diagram for that setup.

I’m attempting to install a 12v DC motor, 2 independent 2 wire foot switches and a 3 wire speed reducer for the motor.

Do you want the two SPST switches to use the speed reducer?

The thumbnails would have been sufficient. Less scrolling...

 

Any time you run wiring through a bulkhead the hole needs to be grommeted to prevent chafing from vibration and eventual shorting. I also like to use a jacketed marine rated cable and not single wire runs. I also like to dope all connections with Liquid Tape, usually several coats, and shrink wrapped with adhesive interior wrap. And don't forget the fuses!

 

A lower pitch propeller would solve your speed problem, and it would reduce the required motor current at the same time.

 

A lower pitch propeller would solve your speed problem, and it would reduce the required motor current at the same time.

I’m attempting to install an isolated pole for my forward facing sonar transducer.

 

Any time you run wiring through a bulkhead the hole needs to be grommeted to prevent chafing from vibration and eventual shorting. I also like to use a jacketed marine rated cable and not single wire runs. I also like to dope all connections with Liquid Tape, usually several coats, and shrink wrapped with adhesive interior wrap. And don't forget the fuses!

I’ll rough this in then go back and make everything more permanent.

 

Welcome to AAC!
It would have been helpful for you to include the wiring diagram for that setup.
Do you want the two SPST switches to use the speed reducer?
View attachment 330021
The thumbnails would have been sufficient. Less scrolling...

When I first installed, I used a momentary dpdt switch. Worked great. But now I’m wanting to use 2 foot switches. Each switch is just a plain 2 wire switch.

 

Welcome to AAC!
It would have been helpful for you to include the wiring diagram for that setup.
Do you want the two SPST switches to use the speed reducer?
View attachment 330021
The thumbnails would have been sufficient. Less scrolling...

And yes. Goal is to have the speed reduced to control speeds for both switches.

 

Welcome to AAC!
It would have been helpful for you to include the wiring diagram for that setup.
Do you want the two SPST switches to use the speed reducer?
View attachment 330021
The thumbnails would have been sufficient. Less scrolling...

 

Welcome to AAC!
It would have been helpful for you to include the wiring diagram for that setup.
Do you want the two SPST switches to use the speed reducer?
View attachment 330021
The thumbnails would have been sufficient. Less scrolling...

Would be nice yea. That’s the goal. Motor turns a little quick.

 

Probably the motor will run a lot slower when it is spinning the prop in water. And for he wires passing thru the drilled holes, if you seal the opening around the wire with silicone RTV, it will prevent chafing wear and water-proof the opening at the same time.